Pink setosa turning white

[Jmj3783]

The picture isn't the best, but this coral was bright and healthy when received a week ago. All other sps and lps in aquarium doing great and parameters are perfect and stable. Problem is it's turning white but like a subtle white fuzzy layer on areas...any ideas?

 

[TheRedBeardedReefer]

Closeup would help. Did you quarantine the piece? Is it possible it came in with a pest? Could be any number of things though (especially if just tossed into the display. Can you post parameters?
Could be low PO4, could be alk swing, could be pests, could be lighting change from original tank, could be salinity (or salinity change), could be a constant flow issue (as in not variable enough).
A little more info could go a long way in helping us narrow down potential causes.
Without knowing more yet, it's clear the frag is unhappy. While you get your parameters posted, I'd consider moving to a lower light area, at least for the time being.

 

[Jmj3783]

Closeup would help. Did you quarantine the piece? Is it possible it came in with a pest? Could be any number of things though (especially if just tossed into the display. Can you post parameters?
Could be low PO4, could be alk swing, could be pests, could be lighting change from original tank, could be salinity (or salinity change), could be a constant flow issue (as in not variable enough).
A little more info could go a long way in helping us narrow down potential causes.
Without knowing more yet, it's clear the frag is unhappy. While you get your parameters posted, I'd consider moving to a lower light area, at least for the time being.

Thanks for the quick response!

Cal: 445
Alk: 9.1
Mag: 1260
Nitrate: 4
Phos: .3
And zero nitrite and ammonia.

I moved it down per your recommendation just now. It was about mid tank with moderate follow coming from alternating heads on opposite ends of aquarium. I did not quarantine because it's a trusted seller who I know his aquarium very well and this frag was from a long established colony in his collection. He used viospectra lights and I have higher powered leds, so I'm thinking maybe too much light. I have slime ball colony, jack o lantern and other encrusting sps they grow like weeds....

 

[TheRedBeardedReefer]

Thanks for the quick response!

Cal: 445
Alk: 9.1
Mag: 1260
Nitrate: 4
Phos: .3
And zero nitrite and ammonia.

I moved it down per your recommendation just now. It was about mid tank with moderate follow coming from alternating heads on opposite ends of aquarium. I did not quarantine because it's a trusted seller who I know his aquarium very well and this frag was from a long established colony in his collection. He used viospectra lights and I have higher powered leds, so I'm thinking maybe too much light. I have slime ball colony, jack o lantern and other encrusting sps they grow like weeds....

No problem at all. Is that PO4 .03 or .3? Assuming this is PPM, if it's .03, might be a touch too low, if it's .3, that's probably your culprit cuz that's quite high

Could be a combination of intersecting flow from both powerheads, too quick a jump in light intensity (PAR) or change in spectrum, and/or out of range phosphate levels. Double check on that PO4 reading.
Also, are you carbon dosing at all (assume not if PO4 is accurate), but if you are, consider dropping alk to 7-8 range once PO4 is under control.

 

[melanotaenia]

agree with above, too much light; keep near bottom 1/3 of tank for a while, mine does best about halfway down under Radions. Good luck

 

[Jmj3783]

No problem at all. Is that PO4 .03 or .3? Assuming this is PPM, if it's .03, might be a touch too low, if it's .3, that's probably your culprit cuz that's quite high

Could be a combination of intersecting flow from both powerheads, too quick a jump in light intensity (PAR) or change in spectrum, and/or out of range phosphate levels. Double check on that PO4 reading.
Also, are you carbon dosing at all (assume not if PO4 is accurate), but if you are, consider dropping alk to 7-8 range once PO4 is under control.

I'm an idiot, I have no idea why I was thinking that for my phosphates. It is undetectable according to salifert test. It's been showing 0 for last 4-5 months I'd say. Intersecting flow could cause issues? I have them alternating maybe 20 sec each.

 

[Jmj3783]

agree with above, too much light; keep near bottom 1/3 of tank for a while, mine does best about halfway down under Radions. Good luck

Thank you, I moved it and hopefully that helps, I really love this frag lol

 

[TheRedBeardedReefer]

I'm an idiot, I have no idea why I was thinking that for my phosphates. It is undetectable according to salifert test. It's been showing 0 for last 4-5 months I'd say. Intersecting flow could cause issues? I have them alternating maybe 20 sec each.

I think it's far more likely a low phosphate issue than it is an intersecting flow issue. I chased an ULNS for a long time, opting to forgo water changes and supplement with trace elements. It's a razor's edge, because without proper supplementation (especially PO4), corals literally cannot create new DNA (phosphate backbone) thus no new cells or tissue.
Are you running GFO? Biopellets? NO3PO4X? I'd chill out on whatever your current approach is and let those phosphates register around .06-.09 for a while.

Out of the three approaches above (GFO, BP and NO3PO4X), Biopellets (while they can be used irresponsibly) are the toughest (in my experience) to crash your tank with. The other two can get out of hand quick if they start stripping the water too clean.

I'll upload some pics later of a lepto I have from my ULNS days compared to now.

 

[Jmj3783]

I think it's far more likely a low phosphate issue than it is an intersecting flow issue. I chased an ULNS for a long time, opting to forgo water changes and supplement with trace elements. It's a razor's edge, because without proper supplementation (especially PO4), corals literally cannot create new DNA (phosphate backbone) thus no new cells or tissue.
Are you running GFO? Biopellets? NO3PO4X? I'd chill out on whatever your current approach is and let those phosphates register around .06-.09 for a while.

Out of the three approaches above (GFO, BP and NO3PO4X), Biopellets (while they can be used irresponsibly) are the toughest (in my experience) to crash your tank with. The other two can get out of hand quick if they start stripping the water too clean.

I'll upload some pics later of a lepto I have from my ULNS days compared to now.

I was dosing nopox but stopped over a month ago. Skimmer has been off and there is still small amounts of gha so I think there has to be Some phosphates? Currently I'm not doing anything and even skimmer is off for time being. Should I dose some phosphates?

 

[Gordonm]

I think it's far more likely a low phosphate issue than it is an intersecting flow issue. I chased an ULNS for a long time, opting to forgo water changes and supplement with trace elements. It's a razor's edge, because without proper supplementation (especially PO4), corals literally cannot create new DNA (phosphate backbone) thus no new cells or tissue.
Are you running GFO? Biopellets? NO3PO4X? I'd chill out on whatever your current approach is and let those phosphates register around .06-.09 for a while.

Out of the three approaches above (GFO, BP and NO3PO4X), Biopellets (while they can be used irresponsibly) are the toughest (in my experience) to crash your tank with. The other two can get out of hand quick if they start stripping the water too clean.

I'll upload some pics later of a lepto I have from my ULNS days compared to now.

Why would you think it's too low of phosphates? Many other possibilities as mentioned