Pink Tabling acro Frag turning Green

[saltyfilmfolks]

yes i use the red sea test kit. I might try decreasing the intensity then.

Are you using the full test or just the big three.
Defiantly look into Dutch synthetic reefing if your going WC free and look up farmerty.
In no WC methods your supplementing All of the elements found in mixed seawater past the big three.

Fwiw once I greened a few acros recently it took three weeks to get them close to normal.

 

[Dilan Patel]

I test the big three which are the coral colors test kit. Within those supplements they have sub trace elements and a bottle specific to sub trace elements. i think it is getting close to the amount in sea water but am not really sure.

So is the way you recovered the color by tuning down the light intensity only?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Yes. I run a long photo period with low intensity and a hight 6hr peak. So I can lower the length on the peak or the intensity of the peak. In this last case I lowered the intensity.

Just to be a skeptic , reread the red sea method and insure it's replacing what you need.

A good primer as well on trace dosing is the triton method. Even if you don't subscribe its good learning

When you run into problems like this it does make it a bit harder to nail down the probs and find a soloution.

 

[Reefltx]

How much par?
I get more green when par is around 300 or below, pink at 400+.

 

[Dilan Patel]

i do not own or can get a par meter. So I have no idea how much par but I would believe it is pretty high due to the intensity I have it set at and the additional t5.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

How much par?
I get more green when par is around 300 or below, pink at 400+.

Mine have been running at 6 to 700+ with no prob in the other tank. I have a friend growing with close to 1800 par with no problembs. Most old school mh guys run far in execess of 400 with little problembs I belive.

 

[Reefltx]

i do not own or can get a par meter. So I have no idea how much par but I would believe it is pretty high due to the intensity I have it set at and the additional t5.

Maybe you can try to borrow one via a lfs?

 

[markalot]

How about a picture?

 

[Dilan Patel]

sure here is one from the store: And you can see the wicked polyp extension of the frag and the main colony.

Now at my Tank for a while now: no polyp extension as well.

 

[Thor2j]

Mine have been running at 6 to 700+ with no prob in the other tank. I have a friend growing with close to 1800 par with no problembs. Most old school mh guys run far in execess of 400 with little problembs I belive.

Check out new Brs video on par

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Check out new Brs video on par

Whys that?

 

[puffy127]

They recommend 250-350 for sps.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

They recommend 250-350 for sps.

How do I get an even 350 In a 24 deep tank.

 

[KJoFan]

How do I get an even 350 In a 24 deep tank.

Watch the video. They are just suggesting 250-350 as an overall range. With the understanding closer to the light/center will be higher par, lower in the tank, lower par. Middle of the tank should average 250-350. They were taking readings in a grid and averaging all readings for overall average par of the tank.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Watch the video. They are just suggesting 250-350 as an overall range. With the understanding closer to the light/center will be higher par, lower in the tank, lower par. Middle of the tank should average 250-350. They were taking readings in a grid and averaging all readings for overall average par of the tank.

It the same research and is based on Dana Riddles work. 350 is where photoinhibition stops and is good for growth in many stony corals. If the paper Dana wrote is fully read , past the inhibiton point is good for coloration and the production of pigmentation.
The difficulty of this reccomendation again is deep tanks. If you hav a sand clam on the bottom you need 150 to 200 par as a minimum. At some point in the grid 350 will be exceeded.
Fwiw. I have a clam and acros on the bottom of my tank and acros on the top.
In my other tank I have acros almost out of the water. I also in that tank have Xenia zoas and plays almost out of the water.

 

[Thor2j]

It the same research and is based on Dana Riddles work. 350 is where photoinhibition stops and is good for growth in many stony corals. If the paper Dana wrote is fully read , past the inhibiton point is good for coloration and the production of pigmentation.
The difficulty of this reccomendation again is deep tanks. If you hav a sand clam on the bottom you need 150 to 200 par as a minimum. At some point in the grid 350 will be exceeded.
Fwiw. I have a clam and acros on the bottom of my tank and acros on the top.
In my other tank I have acros almost out of the water. I also in that tank have Xenia zoas and plays almost out of the water.

Paper says when u get to 700 almost always less pigmentation then at 400.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Paper says when u get to 700 almost always less pigmentation then at 400.

I must have misunderstood when I was at the talk in person and the slide on the screen said the opposite.

 

[Thor2j]

I must have misunderstood when I was at the talk in person and the slide on the screen said the opposite.

Apparently so. Brs said same thing.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Apparently so. Brs said same thing.

K

I am still curious as to how this line of questions applies to the op , because as we all know, acropora corals do and have been for many years , grow extremely well under much higher light levels.

 

[bif24701]

I have been doing a lot of reading on this subject recently and concluded I had too much light. Look at my readings from my PMK.

Note the averages.

Before adjustments

After

The PMK is directly centered under my Kessil AP700, 10" below water, fixture is 8.5" above water, with two ATI Blue Plus T5s. Although I was getting ok color and great growth the adjustment seems to get better colors all over my tank and growth seems the same, in a good way.

I will be using this as a reference for others using the AP700. Which for me peaks at 50% for 8 hours and T5s for 10.