Please critique my plumbing

[TheDuude]

The bulkheads are backwards, which will leak, the holes are drilled too low, in a power outage you are relying on a check valve, which WILL fail , and you have no emergency drain.

Sorry but not sure this is salvageable in current state without risking flooding.

 

[BOYERZ]

That overflow will work. Center it and use the first two holes as returns, just tee them together flip the bulkheads, get some loc-line and raise them up to the surface.

Pro tip: drill from the inside out.

 

[Pickle_soup]

I think I've got the return line to the display the way I want it, just needs paint.

The overflow down to the sump needs a gate valve, then some sort of a bracket to hold it in place.

Thanks for any advice!

It's kinda sexy

 

[BOYERZ]

It's kinda sexy

Thanks, just spit my coffee out!

 

[cobray]

I ordered one of these. Looks like I can do a bean animal with it.
In the meantime, I'll fiddle with the return back to the display.
BTW this is a quarantine tank. I may switch out the sump for a Rubbermaid tub when I need more volume.

 

[cobray]

Getting ready to drill this evening.

 

[Reefering1]

Getting ready to drill this evening.

Did you already drill it? If not, the overflow will likely work better in the center of tank..

 

[Gill the 3rd]

As others mentioned, that check valve will fail. Make sure your sump is large enough to accept all the water volume when your return pump is off. I've used that exact overflow and it worked well for me.

Is the tank going up against the wall? If so, I would maybe move the valves and unions under the stand where you can reach them easier.

 

[cobray]

Did you already drill it? If not, the overflow will likely work better in the center of tank..

I would, but there is a cross brace in the center that would be in the way of the skimmer box.

 

[BOYERZ]

More pics, cross brace will not get in the way.

Is it a 55 gallon?

Really confused by all of this.

 

[cobray]

Yes, 55 gallon. The cross brace is for the cheap lights/lids that came with it.
If it gets in the way of the inside portion of the overflow box, I could probably cut it out. It doesn't affect the structural integrity of the glass.

 

[cobray]

 

[cobray]

Drilled 2 more holes and installed the box.
I think I followed the instructions correctly. A diagram would have helped. I put it together so that the glass had the gaskets in direct contact on both sides.

 

[cobray]

Come to think of it, the external box will leak with no gaskets....

 

[Reefering1]

These pics are hard to look at, the glass is so clean, hard to tell if the box is outside the tank. Sit the tank right side up and take pics of back glass/ overflow box, looking down at it

 

[cobray]

 

[Reefering1]

Looks good. I think I see gasket against the glass inside the tank and box, right? I would NOT remove that brace, it shouldn't interfere with anything. I would use (2) 45* elbows for each of the return outlets, not glued, to allow you to aim them wherever you want while keeping them close to surface as possible.
And as everybody said, make it so that the unions and valves are accessible from the front through the stand and supported by the stand.

 

[cobray]

Yes, the brace stays. Doesn't interfere with anything.
So the gaskets go inside the tank (1 per bulkhead) and between the retaining nut and the outside box, yes?

 

[Reefering1]

I believe so, it looks right. But verify instructions as I don't have 1st hand experience with add on overflow box. Is anything between the tank and box? Looking at it, Perhaps a seal should be there? I'm imagining water seeping through the threads,past the nut and seal. Idk. Hopefully someone else will chime in

 

[cobray]

Yes, I'll read the instructions carefully again. If I'm reading the bold typeface correctly, it appears that the gaskets should be both touching the glass, inside and outside surfaces of the tank.