Please help, because I’m near the end!

[Mical]

Vibrant may have it's benefits if used at low doses, but everyone I know (including my own experience w/it) it also kills chaeto and sets off a cyano/red algae bloom. It's the differences and variances of all of our tanks

 

[tripdad]

Does Vibrant really have a downside? It is only bacteria?
Cheers! Mark

It seems to work just fine for most but there are enough examples where the pattern I described happens that I feel it's a valid point. I think some tanks lack/have something in them that just doesn't work with it. Product is fine, just doesn't work for everyone.

 

[brandon429]

Vibrant good side: can target kill a few species including deeply anchored ones without having to do any work. No work is what we demand by and large, and will pay for


****vibrant has the highest cure rate for valonia, the scourge of the 00’s, over any approach or mithrax clan ever devised. It is game changing valonia worker

Downside: cannot remove detritus in rocks or in sand, the universal invader feed. Is not pan generic...only works on select types of invasion and if we kill plants in system and let them rot, they turn into detritus, feeding a next succession now with double fuel laden about

It causes cyano as tradeoff invasions in such a statistically significant measure that the label should advise of its certainty and strength of cyano production. I guess only straight planted tank phosphate fertilizer could cause more cyano than vibrant

We should do the polar opposite of the steps taken on this tank and log the outcome

 

[Daddy-o]

So if I feed heavily and carbon dose and skim heavy I may be okay?

 

[LC8Sumi]

evening,

i definitely can relate. My concern is you are not too dumb. I think you would be hard pressed to find any of us with time in the hobby that can say they have not gone thru something like this. I know I went thru similar things. I left Dino in my tank for years. Once I decided to get rid of it, cyano came, worked on that and turf came along. i have found there is no absolute trigger for things, but usually there is something in common. Most get Dino with low numbers. I had dino with Po4 close to 1 an No3 at 30.

don‘t be down on yourself. wondering what gfo did you use?

Thank You! Appreciate your kind words. I use rowaphos.

 

[LC8Sumi]

I don't think it's luck, it's more like mimicking nature is the answer. Granted there are alot of "tools" we have access to but they have their "backlashes" too. I try to stick with natural #'s as close as possible without throwing synthetic cures at what I perceive as an issue. Nature ALWAYS wins. IE: you get a cyano outbreak from overfeeding - #1) you can throw Chemiclean at it and deal w/skimmer overflow(s), cloudy tank for days etc... OR you could cut back your feedings for a couple of days until cyano starts to recede. It may take a couple of weeks to it to recede but it took weeks if not months to start. We're always quick to react but most of us don't realize that the issue started weeks or months ago and it's not going to vanish in the time we concentrated on it. I'm guilty as the next reefer, I would like instant results but nature has "her" own timeline and reefing has taught me this.

I'm not sure if 1 cube of mysis a day in a 54g display is too much or not?
I have 4 anthias, 2 clowns, 1 scopas tang and a copperband. They're all in good shape and have had them for more than 2 years. I feel like cutting back this amount of feeding and they would starve, especially the CB.

 

[LC8Sumi]

fifty gallons can be drained into a brute can, rendering the entire system accessible that really changes the game. Figured it was 150 gal

That being said, there's still the willingness to access factor and that removes just about every reef tank owner they demand zero access work, they'll sooner take the tank down w loss $ than use access to cure the concurrent conditions. They'll refuse to touch it, rather watch it disintegrate its fascinating behavior we log this in work threads commonly


consider saving accessibility restoration for the very last step no need to downsize further. Right before total takedown when everything possible has been dosed, try our cleaning method. It requires totally cleaning your system and detailing rocks back to good condition directly, outside the tank. Dosing no more chems, gfo offline, new water, and a different way of handling algae on round two. Message if you want I’ll show you a work thread with more than one tank restored

That you have no sand really helps big time in cleaning approach

Post full tank shot

We could do to your reef what a dentist does to a bad mouth, several similar actions actually.

I can't pull the rocks, because the whole scape is cemented together (~55lbs).
Fts:

 

[LC8Sumi]

I'm not sure if the vibrant was the main issue here, because my rocks were always pristine algae wise. I've only had algae on the glass & on plastics (overflow, powerheads), so I imagine that when those died off they just disolved into the water instead of rotting in the rockwork? I've also pulled a lot manually during the process & ran filter floss in my sump & changed it every 1-2 days.

 

[Reeferdude1888]

Hi hang in there we've all had problems with our tanks at one time or an other. I been in the hobby about ten years or more and felt the same but with some good advice from other reefers u will get the tank back on track.


Here's my experience with dinos,,

15 November 2017 siporax added
Cheato added 2017 November
Miracle mud 1 November

Dinos treatment

Removed siporax miracle and cheato ,lights of for 6days main tank and sump treating with Dino x every second day 21ml, 7th day 4doses in dinos look gone lights back on blues only 5 hours 3 percent to 50 percent back to 3 percent light cycle 5 hr period ,day 7 filtered 15 gallon from the tank through filter sock then returned the same water back to the tank also put in a spare skimmer I have as a back up to run alongside my apf 600 deltec . Day 8 filtered another 15 gallon of water through filter sock and returned water to tank keeping light cycle as above for another 6 days.
Day 13 7 doses in of Dino x ,introduced white light back into light cycle today white is running at 1% to 3% over 5hr period along with blues at 3% to 50% over same time period will ramp white up over the next few days , Day 14 put 1ltr of rowacarbon in reactor .
If all continues well then I will reintroduce the mm mud and siporax and rowaphos reactor back in over the next few days .

Introduced miracle mud cheato back into the sump also rinsed it with ro water before hand also put siporax back in and turned on rowaphos reactor to, also put sump light back on today .

Over the course of the treatment there were no ill effects of the treatment with regards to fish corals or inverts they are all fine the anemone is the only thing that shrunk a little bit.

Fingers crossed here's hoping all stays fine looking good time will tell.


◦
16 January

Started dosing nopox 8 ml for 100 gallon slightly under recommended dosage just to start of with.

 

[SMSREEF]

I can't pull the rocks, because the whole scape is cemented together (~55lbs).
Fts:

Your tank looks really great!
Is this recent or before all the issues?

I have a nano that I had diatom issues for over a year. I tried many different quick fixes and ended up killing some of my coral.

I sent in a sample of my water and RO water and found out I had huge amount of silica in both. I fixed this with new RODI and some large water changes over time.

I realize this is probably not your issue, but ICP test could help identify things we can’t see.

like others said, do things slow... when I rushed or tried to make big changes fast, I really messed up my tank.

 

[LC8Sumi]

Your tank looks really great!
Is this recent or before all the issues?

I have a nano that I had diatom issues for over a year. I tried many different quick fixes and ended up killing some of my coral.

I sent in a sample of my water and RO water and found out I had huge amount of silica in both. I fixed this with new RODI and some large water changes over time.

I realize this is probably not your issue, but ICP test could help identify things we can’t see.

like others said, do things slow... when I rushed or tried to make big changes fast, I really messed up my tank.

Thanks! Yes, this is recent. What the picture isn't telling is the STN & dino film over the SPS. You can see some of the cyano though on the right hand side powerhead (talk about cyano only grows in low flow)

I've did an ICP on my RO before, and it came back pristine I wish that was the case though, because that would be solveable.

 

[SMSREEF]

Thanks! Yes, this is recent. What the picture isn't telling is the STN & dino film over the SPS. You can see some of the cyano though on the right hand side powerhead (talk about cyano only grows in low flow)

I've did an ICP on my RO before, and it came back pristine I wish that was the case though, because that would be solveable.

Really nice tank!
Maybe it’s just simply your bacteria/algea is out of whack now.
Did you take fuge offline after the vibrant, because macro died?
If so, maybe getting that back up would help.

 

[LC8Sumi]

Really nice tank!
Maybe it’s just simply your bacteria/algea is out of whack now.
Did you take fuge offline after the vibrant, because macro died?
If so, maybe getting that back up would help.

I took the fuge offline because I had a feeling the chaeto was outperforming bacteria and corals. This is a 3yo struggle really, so the fuge was the only thing left that I haven’t changed still day 1 - this lead me to think that that might be part of the problem. I didn’t want vibrant to deal with the fuge (Possibly degrading chaeto health & purging whatever is in the chaeto back into the system) instead of algae inside the tank, so I’ve pulled the fuge about 3-4 weeks into the vibrant treatment. After that it only took a couple days to see positive results in the display algae wise. Not sure if related or coincidence.

 

[SMSREEF]

I took the fuge offline because I had a feeling the chaeto was outperforming bacteria and corals. This is a 3yo struggle really, so the fuge was the only thing left that I haven’t changed still day 1 - this lead me to think that that might be part of the problem. I didn’t want vibrant to deal with the fuge (Possibly degrading chaeto health & purging whatever is in the chaeto back into the system) instead of algae inside the tank, so I’ve pulled the fuge about 3-4 weeks into the vibrant treatment. After that it only took a couple days to see positive results in the display algae wise. Not sure if related or coincidence.

This hobby is really hard figuring out how to balance all the variables. I’m certainly not there yet, so please update when you figure out a fix that works
Stick with this because it looks like you are doing A LOT right.

 

[LC8Sumi]

This hobby is really hard figuring out how to balance all the variables. I’m certainly not there yet, so please update when you figure out a fix that works
Stick with this because it looks like you are doing A LOT right.

Thank You!

 

[LARedstickreefer]

turn off whites, decrease blues a little and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen Peroxide per 10 gals and also add liquid bacteria at same dosage such as Microbacter 7.
You should see a difference in about 4-5 days. You have nothing to lose and this worked easily for me.

If it’s biologic, peroxide’s got it.

 

[LC8Sumi]

I can't turn off whites, as it is a t5 only setup now.

 

[aquaregia]

Quite a few people report good results in getting rid of dinos with UV sterilizer.

 

[LC8Sumi]

Quite a few people report good results in getting rid of dinos with UV sterilizer.

Yeah, I’ve tried that but I believe it’s just a scam

 

[brandon429]

All suggestions have been discounted, I say just hold course as is. In my opinion you wouldn’t want to be the one to evaluate fixes for the tank due to thread title, rather your time spent should be simply searching out your invasion in another thread, and 100% doing what they did.

post your after shots, post work, the final arrangement

Time spent shouldn’t be sampling fix opinions, but the post of you initiating one you have self searched then fully applied, we should see the end result of your selected method. Another way to make viable progress is to self select one builder, and they pilot remote. No matter the call, you’d run the prescription. You have already been reading up on options and selecting portions of them before this thread, time to choose one of the two full mode options where evaluation and application are from someone else. You have high standards for your reef that’s for sure, it’s healthy and bright and old stand corals/color/health and coralline, if it’s invaded only you can see it. What you’ve chosen for coral health other people might be searching out your action threads