Please help ID
- Thread starter bdif
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hey that tank doesnt look too huge going off ratios of hardware in the pics, how many gallons is that one
your treatment options are very wide open if that is a nano/smaller reef vs a large one, because we can do things to smaller reefs that large tankers can't practically do.
your treatment options are very wide open if that is a nano/smaller reef vs a large one, because we can do things to smaller reefs that large tankers can't practically do.
bdif
New Member
180 display. U saying dinos?
wow a 180 is huge, you likely wont like our method prob best to try the N and P balance, UV and clean up crews.
if it was a tad smaller, check out the rip clean:
if it was a tad smaller, check out the rip clean:
120 gallon rip clean
I’ve decided to perform a rip clean on my 120 with 100% new water. The tank has been running for 5 years and was battling Dino for several months. I used the bacteria method from elegant corals and worked great I haven’t seen Dino in months now. But I tried several other methods including...
www.reef2reef.com
thats a 120
in that line of approach, we dont care what the params are nor the invader. we remove it all 100% instantly, bottom to top.
then apply the preventatives du joure
based on that line of work its clear why nanos like the method best. a few gallons total comparatively
but the outcomes are very tight tank to tank, its the work intensity that varies so much.
ScubaFish802
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4theluvofcoral
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Try Vibrant from Underwater Creations. We have a 125 gallon and are battling the same thing. Heard great reviews and BRS has tested it even.
try to manually remove a lot of it though at least, siphon so that dosers and suppression attempts run in the lowest mass condition, not the full on blown out takeover condition we end up using too much X compensating
gotta have a pre work aspect imo even if we can't part it out on the slab for surgery and back, like reef flatliners
i like vibrant for large tanks as it doesnt hurt to try. in the hundreds of logged uses I dont recall any loss patterns at all from it, it either worked or not.
if it kills and degrades a lot of living mass i have seen that cause issues after vibrant, pre removal is best start/lowest invasion mass.
gotta have a pre work aspect imo even if we can't part it out on the slab for surgery and back, like reef flatliners
i like vibrant for large tanks as it doesnt hurt to try. in the hundreds of logged uses I dont recall any loss patterns at all from it, it either worked or not.
if it kills and degrades a lot of living mass i have seen that cause issues after vibrant, pre removal is best start/lowest invasion mass.
stoneyrok
Community Member
I am still considered kind of new to this. But I had a 120ga about 10 years ago and now a 32 cube and I’m ready to upgrade and keep that little cube for my daughter. anyway, I see there is an add for Vibrant and I was going to tell you or suggest rather. And please, if anyone out there disagrees please speak up!! I do NOT get upset if I have opposition.
I was going to say, turn OFF the UV filter since it kills bacteria and plankton etx if you’re using reef roids. But turn off the Uv for now. Threat the tank with Vibrant - I used 2.5ml/32cube. It’s 1ml per ten gal. But if I removed my rock and other stuff I have about 29gal.
It did wonders. And I mean wonders for my tank. Cleared it up and was like looking thru air.
let it work for at least a week and if you need more then dose once more for about a week.
With water change before Vibrant, and vibrant.
Then. After the vibrant treatments go ahead and turn on the UV filter again. This will stop Vibrant from working since it is a bacteria.
then, watch the tank closely and feedings. Feed fish and corals but we know when they have had enough!! Target feed the corals with just a slight push of a pipet - target feed the corals that like mysis like the blastos etc.
once you think they absorbed some red roids or plankton and the others ate then turn the pumps back on andUV back on. Too many plankton can cause a haze so UV kills the excess.
angway, you will know how to alternate the UV and vibrant. These two will reset you in a way
then if your problems return then you should be able to determine exactly what and why to fix at the root level.
Ask all here about the root level and you’ll see they probably agree. Fix the root and you’re good.
But for now. Clear bad things. Use UV after Vibrant. Or use UV hard for a week or so then hit it with Vibrant.
McLean your protein skimmer as much as possible.
Please let me know what happens and what you do cause I’ve thought about this a lot.
yhank you and I hope to hear a follow up
I was going to say, turn OFF the UV filter since it kills bacteria and plankton etx if you’re using reef roids. But turn off the Uv for now. Threat the tank with Vibrant - I used 2.5ml/32cube. It’s 1ml per ten gal. But if I removed my rock and other stuff I have about 29gal.
It did wonders. And I mean wonders for my tank. Cleared it up and was like looking thru air.
let it work for at least a week and if you need more then dose once more for about a week.
With water change before Vibrant, and vibrant.
Then. After the vibrant treatments go ahead and turn on the UV filter again. This will stop Vibrant from working since it is a bacteria.
then, watch the tank closely and feedings. Feed fish and corals but we know when they have had enough!! Target feed the corals with just a slight push of a pipet - target feed the corals that like mysis like the blastos etc.
once you think they absorbed some red roids or plankton and the others ate then turn the pumps back on andUV back on. Too many plankton can cause a haze so UV kills the excess.
angway, you will know how to alternate the UV and vibrant. These two will reset you in a way
then if your problems return then you should be able to determine exactly what and why to fix at the root level.
Ask all here about the root level and you’ll see they probably agree. Fix the root and you’re good.
But for now. Clear bad things. Use UV after Vibrant. Or use UV hard for a week or so then hit it with Vibrant.
McLean your protein skimmer as much as possible.
Please let me know what happens and what you do cause I’ve thought about this a lot.
yhank you and I hope to hear a follow up
bdif
New Member
Thank you for taking the time to respond. Much appreciated. So maybe I keep asking a stupid question, but do u think it’s dinos? It must be a slam dunk for dinos if everyone keeps giving me solutions (which I do greatly appreciate)
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Lower light intensity for a few days, algae scrubber by hand and siphon well.
Liquid vibrant can help. This is a combo of diatoms/algae/inorganics. Dino's look like brown snot with bubbles..
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet ?
What test kit(s) are you using. Hopefully not API
Liquid vibrant can help. This is a combo of diatoms/algae/inorganics. Dino's look like brown snot with bubbles..
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet ?
What test kit(s) are you using. Hopefully not API
bdif
New Member
Ro/di, 0 tds. Hanna LR phosphate but yes, API on the no3. Been dosing brightwell no3/po4 with mb7 for about a week but still getting 00 on nutrients. Tank is 8mos old but cured dry rock for 6 mos in rain barrel before starting tank. Running UV/carbon reactor/skimmer. Sps/zoas seem fine except for ones where this crap is growing on it
bdif
New Member
Thank you for responding. I posted more info but not sure if it went directly to you. Not too tech savvy
Just went through the same thing in my 65, everything was spot on perfect and it kept coming back. I would clean and vacuum and the next day was back. I upped my water change by doing an additional 5% in the middle of the week and started changing carbon out weekly and after a month it cleared out and hasn't been back yet
bdif
New Member
Copy that. Thank you for the reply!
Erick Armanii
Well-Known Member
A microscope is really the quickest way to confirm dinos. At first glance I thought diatoms, but photos can be deceiving.
Go lights out for a couple days and test parameters.
It’s theorized that dinos develop due to ultra low nutrients. Also I read somewhere that raising the temp to over 83 degrees kills dinos.
Go lights out for a couple days and test parameters.
It’s theorized that dinos develop due to ultra low nutrients. Also I read somewhere that raising the temp to over 83 degrees kills dinos.
