Please help me with my lion fish

[RedFrog211]

I think 40 lbs and no I don’t have a skimmer or sub just the penguin filter I am going to invest in a skimmer soon I do have another tank the problem is nitrite is at 1 and nitrate is a 40 there is 0 ammonia in the other one should I put him in the other one or leave him

Nitrates are less toxic than ammonia, but the catching and acclimating may be stressful for the Lion. If you can scoop him up easily and not stress him out too much, maybe the other tank would be best for now. If you think that’s not feasible, I’d recommend going with the prime detox method!

 

[kenziejlooft]

So you think putting him in the other one and dosing with prime in the other tank? Would be the best bet for him

 

[RedFrog211]

So you think putting him in the other one and dosing with prime in the other tank? Would be the best bet for him

If you can catch him easily, yes I’d move him. Then dose the 55 and keep an eye on the other fish- If not, just dose the 55 and hope he heals quickly!

 

[kenziejlooft]

If you can catch him easily, yes I’d move him. Then dose the 55 and keep an eye on the other fish- If not, just dose the 55 and hope he heals quickly!

Thank you so much and you think the 1.00 nitrite won’t hurt him or the 40 nitrates

 

[RedFrog211]

Do you have prime with you? Dosing would have a quicker result

 

[kenziejlooft]

Do you have prime with you? Dosing would have a quicker result

Yes

 

[RedFrog211]

Yes

That’s what I would do then! Please Keep us posted!

 

[kenziejlooft]

That’s what I would do then! Please Keep us posted!

Now I am having second thoughts about it used api it tested 0 but the Red Sea I am pretty sure says 0.2

 

[lion king]

I do have another tank the ammonia in it is 0 but the nitrite is 1 and nitrate is 40 would be be better in there

This is the problem, stress kills, so moving again can in itself be a killer. As others have suggested, dose prime, and get incremental water changes ready. This will remedy the ammonia issue, and if that is the problem, he should rebound fairly quickly.

A couple of questions? Did you check the sg in the bag before introducing him to the tank, what is the sg in the tank? Most lfs and suppliers at the best run 1.020, many even lower, so if you put him in reef conditions at 1.025/26 that is a very big problem.
2nd, does it look like he is having a seizure and does he lose color color when he flashes.

Less deadly common issues like flukes or parasites will give you time to assess and react appropriately. 1st the ammonia issue needs to be addressed.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I agree with Jay on breathing and jolting which is a method of " Trying to shake parasites or other irritant".
Whenever you see heavy breathing test water and change if all possible.
You can have ammonia but at level <.03. nitrate is a little high.

-Are you using Tap water or RODI water ?
- What is Ph ?
- Are gills by chance red?
- Inspect body closely (For this . I have bought a pair of reading glasses which magnifies everything) for any dots on skin

 

[kenziejlooft]

What do you think

 

[kenziejlooft]

This is the problem, stress kills, so moving again can in itself be a killer. As others have suggested, dose prime, and get incremental water changes ready. This will remedy the ammonia issue, and if that is the problem, he should rebound fairly quickly.

A couple of questions? Did you check the sg in the bag before introducing him to the tank, what is the sg in the tank? Most lfs and suppliers at the best run 1.020, many even lower, so if you put him in reef conditions at 1.025/26 that is a very big problem.
2nd, does it look like he is having a seizure and does he lose color color when he flashes.

Less deadly common issues like flukes or parasites will give you time to assess and react appropriately. 1st the ammonia issue needs to be addressed.

If it’s a ammonia issue can I do multiple water changes a day he doesn’t really flash he just darts forward I haven’t seen him do it a lot it’s strange

 

[kenziejlooft]

This is the problem, stress kills, so moving again can in itself be a killer. As others have suggested, dose prime, and get incremental water changes ready. This will remedy the ammonia issue, and if that is the problem, he should rebound fairly quickly.

A couple of questions? Did you check the sg in the bag before introducing him to the tank, what is the sg in the tank? Most lfs and suppliers at the best run 1.020, many even lower, so if you put him in reef conditions at 1.025/26 that is a very big problem.
2nd, does it look like he is having a seizure and does he lose color color when he flashes.

Less deadly common issues like flukes or parasites will give you time to assess and react appropriately. 1st the ammonia issue needs to be addressed.

No I didn’t do you think I should bring the salinity down to 1.20 problem is I have anenomes

 

[kenziejlooft]

I agree with Jay on breathing and jolting which is a method of " Trying to shake parasites or other irritant".
Whenever you see heavy breathing test water and change if all possible.
You can have ammonia but at level <.03. nitrate is a little high.

-Are you using Tap water or RODI water ?
- What is Ph ?
- Are gills by chance red?
- Inspect body closely (For this . I have bought a pair of reading glasses which magnifies everything) for any dots on skin

Rodi ph is 8 I tried to raise it but I did use a buffer and never will again
The gills don’t look red just on the inside they look reddish I don’t see any dots

 

[vetteguy53081]

What do you think

Looks like a strong .03 which is a limit

Rodi ph is 8 I tried to raise it but I did use a buffer and never will again
The gills don’t look red just on the inside they look reddish I don’t see any dots

No need to chase ph as 8.1 acceptable and buffers are no good as they produce changes too quickly
Do you know RODI TDS ?

 

[kenziejlooft]

I turned off wave makers to see if that helps

 

[RedFrog211]

Many fish stores keep SG around 1.020 to help eliminate parasites. I would not recommend keeping your reef at that though- it’s just a helpful thing when dealing with fish-only systems with high turn-over rate.

 

[kenziejlooft]

Looks like a strong .03 which is a limit

No need to chase ph as 7.1 acceptable and buffers are no good as they produce changes too quickly
Do you know RODI TDS ?

For the ammonia test ?

 

[kenziejlooft]

Many fish stores keep SG around 1.020 to help eliminate parasites. I would not recommend keeping your reef at that though- it’s just a helpful thing when dealing with fish-only systems with high turn-over rate.

Do you think lowering it to maybe 1.23 would help or even lower than that and bring it up slowly

 

[lion king]

If it’s a ammonia issue can I do multiple water changes a day he doesn’t really flash he just darts forward I haven’t seen him do it a lot it’s strange

Get ammonia taken care of where he is, yes you can do multiple small water changes daily, just make sure sure you do not do huge changes at once. Has he eaten, if he eats I wouldn't worry so fast, if not, that's another story. Lions can be difficult to feed initially, but you do need to get him to eat'

That bolt forward could be flukes, normally you will have time to address this; in an advanced state you would see cloudy eyes and he would probably be at the surface maybe even taking air from the surface. this would be more dire. His breathing could also point to this, and a treatment of prazi pro would be prescribed. If he doesn't eat then transferring to a tank where you can treat with general cure would be the best course of action. Make sure to balance the sg between the tanks.

Lions also shed their outer layer, many times when going in a new tank due to chemistry changes, and even stress. This is also accompanied by that bolting movement. This can be of no concern or could be him fighting a bacterial/parasitic attack. The shedding process is most times non threatening.