Please help with lighting!

dsouth1103

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So I have a 72 bow front mixed reef and I have a 6 bulb T5 light with a blue led strip, but I doubt the led makes a difference here.. I switched to ATI bulbs (4 blue plus, 1 purple plus, 1 aqua blue special) and moved them up because I heard they were pretty strong (30” from sand bed). Half of the bulbs are on for 6 hours a day and the other half are on for 4 (all bulbs are on for those 4 hours), allowing the lights to have a one hour ramp at the beginning and end of the light cycle. And the blue led strip comes on one hour before and after the T5s are on. I always second guess myself when it comes to lighting so if anyone can tell me if I got something wrong then I would really appreciate it. Thanks!
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I’ve kept the lights like this for some time now, mushrooms are shriveled up although the monti caps are cupping up, corals have lost color but still have growth.
Mushrooms are usually pretty adaptable and can usually handle low to high light. I'm not sure you can attribute them shriveling up to the light, but it's certainly possible.

As far as other corals losing color, this may or may not be a lighting issue. Softies and LPS corals don't need near the amount of light you are probably giving them, but they should be able the lighting in your tank as they can tolerate a wide range. Nutrient levels may certainly be impacting your corals coloration, with my inclination being that you may have really low nitrate and / or phosphate levels. High light with really low nutrients might cause some corals to become a bit pale.

If the corals are growing, then I think you are in good shape and it just may be a matter of fine tuning some things. If you're judging your corals colors, just be aware that your bulb combination can also impact how they look visually. I always hated the aqua blue special bulb because I never like the way my corals or tank looked under it, but that is just my personal preference. There's plenty of people who use it, and it certainly is a fine full spectrum bulb.
 
Mushrooms are usually pretty adaptable and can usually handle low to high light. I'm not sure you can attribute them shriveling up to the light, but it's certainly possible.

As far as other corals losing color, this may or may not be a lighting issue. Softies and LPS corals don't need near the amount of light you are probably giving them, but they should be able the lighting in your tank as they can tolerate a wide range. Nutrient levels may certainly be impacting your corals coloration, with my inclination being that you may have really low nitrate and / or phosphate levels. High light with really low nutrients might cause some corals to become a bit pale.

If the corals are growing, then I think you are in good shape and it just may be a matter of fine tuning some things. If you're judging your corals colors, just be aware that your bulb combination can also impact how they look visually. I always hated the aqua blue special bulb because I never like the way my corals or tank looked under it, but that is just my personal preference. There's plenty of people who use it, and it certainly is a fine full spectrum bulb.

Well my tank is actually at 0 for nitrates, figured it couldn’t be too clean.. I removed my carbon to see if it helps bring it up a little. Still running skimmer and chaeto
 
Well my tank is actually at 0 for nitrates, figured it couldn’t be too clean.. I removed my carbon to see if it helps bring it up a little. Still running skimmer and chaeto
Removing your carbon won't really do anything for your nutrient levels. I would recommend feeding your corals more, or feeding your fish more, or at least dosing amino acids if you do not want to increase your nitrates at least slightly. Phosphates may be another area you should measure. If they are super low, you might want to increase those as well (run less gfo if you use it or feed more...foods have phosphate in them).

In general, I think there are two type of low nutrient systems. You have some people who may not feed their corals, or they have low stocking levels, and / or they have outsized or numerous nutrient exporting mechanisms that are extremely (too) efficient at stripping everything from the water. These tanks I'd classify as being "sterile" almost.

The other type of low nutrient tank, which I find preferential, are the ones where people are feeding their corals (or at least dosing amino acids if nutrients are staying low), or they have higher stocking levels and feed the fish more, but their corals bacteria, etc. and their husbandry and export mechanisms are still effectively keep nutrients at undetectable levels. There's definitely nutrients being supplied daily in these situations but readings may still register 0 on test kits because an almost perfect equilibrium has been achieved. As such, if I were going to err, I'd rather err on the side of having at least some nitrates and phosphates being registered versus virtually 0 numbers. My nitrates run as high as 10 ppm and my phosphates have been as high as 0.30, which is 10 times higher than the 0.03 number you read about all the time. I don't think my numbers are ideal, but I just mention them because I was always led to believe that nutrient levels like this would kill corals or cause massive algae outbreaks. I don't think that's the case at all. However, this doesn't mean that levels don't matter. 100 ppm nitrate would concern me greatly. 20 ppm might indicate an issue in nitrates rising and not being controlled adequately. 2 ppm to 5 ppm I think would be great for lps corals.

I think if you increased your nitrate (and possibly phosphate) to get some slight readings you will see some improvement in your corals. Just my best guess. I've also had perfectly "seemingly" healthy colonies that have grown for years suddenly start to decline for no good explainable reason (like a duncan coral I grew from 2 heads to probably 40 and then it just started dying one day).

Good luck! Be sure and give an update later if you discover anything that helps. That's how I learn on these forums is reading about other people's experiences, both positive and negative.
 
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Removing your carbon won't really do anything for your nutrient levels. I would recommend feeding your corals more, or feeding your fish more, or at least dosing amino acids if you do not want to increase your nitrates at least slightly. Phosphates may be another area you should measure. If they are super low, you might want to increase those as well (run less gfo if you use it or feed more...foods have phosphate in them).

In general, I think there are two type of low nutrient systems. You have some people who may not feed their corals, or they have low stocking levels, and / or they have outsized or numerous nutrient exporting mechanisms that are extremely (too) efficient at stripping everything from the water. These tanks I'd classify as being "sterile" almost.

The other type of low nutrient tank, which I find preferential, are the ones where people are feeding their corals (or at least dosing amino acids if nutrients are staying low), or they have higher stocking levels and feed the fish more, but their corals bacteria, etc. and their husbandry and export mechanisms are still effectively keep nutrients at undetectable levels. There's definitely nutrients being supplied daily in these situations but readings may still register 0 on test kits because an almost perfect equilibrium has been achieved. As such, if I were going to err, I'd rather err on the side of having at least some nitrates and phosphates being registered versus virtually 0 numbers. My nitrates run as high as 10 ppm and my phosphates have been as high as 0.30, which is 10 times higher than the 0.03 number you read about all the time. I don't think my numbers are ideal, but I just mention them because I was always led to believe that nutrient levels like this would kill corals or cause massive algae outbreaks. I don't think that's the case at all. However, this doesn't mean that levels don't matter. 100 ppm nitrate would concern me greatly. 20 ppm might indicate an issue in nitrates rising and not being controlled adequately. 2 ppm to 5 ppm I think would be great for lps corals.

I think if you increased your nitrate (and possibly phosphate) to get some slight readings you will see some improvement in your corals. Just my best guess. I've also had perfectly "seemingly" healthy colonies that have grown for years suddenly start to decline for no good explainable reason (like a duncan coral I grew from 2 heads to probably 40 and then it just started dying one day).

Good luck! Be sure and give an update later if you discover anything that helps. That's how I learn on these forums is reading about other people's experiences, both positive and negative.

Will do! I’m putting a block of mysis in every day to see if that’ll help bring up the nutrients at all, plus i’m cutting back on the skimmer so fingers crossed. Thanks again for all the help!
 
Will do! I’m putting a block of mysis in every day to see if that’ll help bring up the nutrients at all, plus i’m cutting back on the skimmer so fingers crossed. Thanks again for all the help!
Feeding the fish a block of mysis? Feeding the fish more will help (more food = more fish poop). I personally wouldn't cut back on the skimmer unless you've really oversized it, but some people do. I just find it annoying to unplug and plug back in. I'd recommend doing some broadcast coral feedings a few times a week. Something like reef roids, coral frenzy, reef chili, and other products are all great. If it doesn't bring your nutrients up, you at least know you are providing extra food sources for the tank and it's being used up. You will want to monitor how much you feed and how often to be sure you keep your nutrient readings low. You will eventually find a nice equilibrium where your nutrients are still low but you know you are providing plenty of food for the fish and the corals despite the super low readings. Some people have such good husbandry and huge macroalgae systems that they are able to feed a ton and still struggle to get any detectable nutrients.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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