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Ckdada

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I have a female dusky wrasse that all of a sudden looks terrible, she eats good, doesn’t scratch, normal waste. She is laying on her side with very heavy breathing.
 

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...just clarification so you get the proper help....so are you saying it still exhibits feeding behavior even though it’s currently laying on side and breathing heavy
OR
are you saying it was normal earlier and NOW it’s breathing heavy
 
It was normal yesterday.
...just clarification so you get the proper help....so are you saying it still exhibits feeding behavior even though it’s currently laying on side and breathing heavy
OR
are you saying it was normal earlier and NOW it’s breathing heavy
 
TBH thats not sounding good.... I can’t offer any good news as I’ve never seen a fish recover from those symptoms...
hardly a final word tho and I won’t quibble with another person’s experiences ...
hope it gets better
 
Thanks for response.... Should I start immediate copper power treatment??
No, not now.again my prognosis & experience with what you describe isn’t good. maybe lets wait for the heavy hitters to input ...hopefully they will shuffle in after work today ...
bump
edit add. does it look like the fish can hold on for a few hours?
 
No, not now...again my prognosis & experience with what you describe isn’t good...let wait for the heavy hitters to input ...hopefully they will shuffle in after work today ...
bump
Will do, moved him into QT tank with a little lower salinity, will wait on any medications, CUC was starting to pick on him.
 
that’s solid .... IME you can go to a lower salinity easier and faster than transitioning to a higher ppm ... a couple point drop might stress but usually isn’t lethal directly anyway
 
Thanks for response.... Should I start immediate copper power treatment??
I wouldn't treat without knowing what I'm fighting. Best thing you can do is put it in QT and monitor your other fish for now.
On another note, I saw that juvenile Emperor swim by. You're going to need a bigger tank than 75 gallons if that's your Waterbox 350.
 
Test water first thing, focusing on:
Ammonia
Nitrate
Ph
Temperature
Salinity

then ...... change water30% or more
Speaking of water, are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?
Increase oxygen if you can as simple as adding an air stone via air pump
Lower lights to blue to keep fish relaxed

How fast is fish breathing or does it appear to be normal
 
Test water first thing, focusing on:
Ammonia
Nitrate
Ph
Temperature
Salinity

then ...... change water30% or more
Speaking of water, are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?
Increase oxygen if you can as simple as adding an air stone via air pump
Lower lights to blue to keep fish relaxed
Just tested,
Ammonia - 0
Nitrate - 12
Nitrite - 0
Temp - 77
Salinity - 35.2 ppt

I use a 4 stage RODI unit from BRS with a TDS meter, the lights are normal now as I only had them white incase of a parasite that was hard to see. Thanks for the help.
 
All other fish looks very healthy and normal, all my sps/lps are open, all inverts are active and moving around.
 
Just tested,
Ammonia - 0
Nitrate - 12
Nitrite - 0
Temp - 77
Salinity - 35.2 ppt

I use a 4 stage RODI unit from BRS with a TDS meter, the lights are normal now as I only had them white incase of a parasite that was hard to see. Thanks for the help.
One thing I find troubling is a high nitrate with a zero ammonia state. I assume you’re using API test kits?
They’re known for false readings causing unnecessary responses to tank conditions
 
I wouldn't treat without knowing what I'm fighting. Best thing you can do is put it in QT and monitor your other fish for now.
On another note, I saw that juvenile Emperor swim by. You're going to need a bigger tank than 75 gallons if that's your Waterbox 350.
Agreed, I will probably go pick up various meds just incase, I messaged evolved. The emperor angel is pretty small but I doubt I can keep a 75 for more than another year without upgrading ;)
 
One thing I find troubling is a high nitrate with a zero ammonia state. I assume you’re using API test kits?
They’re known for false readings causing unnecessary responses to tank conditions
For everything but ammonia and nitrate, I use hanna checkers that I also just calibrated today, but yes for those two I use API test kits.
 
For everything but ammonia and nitrate, I use hanna checkers that I also just calibrated today, but yes for those two I use API test kits.
Love Hanna
API is a disappointment and to think I sold them exclusively when I had my full line pet store
 
Love Hanna
API is a disappointment and to think I sold them exclusively when I had my full line pet store
Honestly, that scares me, I dose small amounts of NO3 from FishOfHex as my sps tend to brown with lower nitrates due to my refugium
 

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