Please help

[fishguy710]

I have a rose bubble tip and it will not open up, it was open for the first two months I had it and now it’s really mad about something my salinity is at 1.026 no ammonia nitrites and little nitrates and my euphyilla and everything are okay.

 

[T-J]

How new is the tank? What kind of lighting and flow? What are your exact numbers on everything, including phosphates? Full tank pic?

 

[JWD57NH]

I guess my first question is how long has it been closed? That’s normal for them to sometimes close at night or when they go to the bathroom, and sometimes they just close and will open back up. If this has been happening for a few hours a or a day I wouldn’t worry but if it’s been more then a day something wrong. If you have close watch if they are being hard on it, I’ve had some aggressive clowns that would tick of my BTA.

 

[fishguy710]

How new is the tank? What kind of lighting and flow? What are your exact numbers on everything, including phosphates? Full tank pic?

I have had it set up for about 4 months, my clownfish have bonded with it. It’s a 20 gallon I have 2 fire fish and 2 clowns and clean up crew with some Ricordia Xenia scoly and Zoas (pictures included under) with AI prime My phosphate is 0.013, salinity 1.26, 0 nitrites and ammonia, very little nitrates and ph around 7.9

 

[fishguy710]

I have had it set up for about 4 months, my clownfish have bonded with it. It’s a 20 gallon I have 2 fire fish and 2 clowns and clean up crew with some Ricordia Xenia scoly and Zoas (pictures included under) with AI prime My phosphate is 0.013, salinity 1.26, 0 nitrites and ammonia, very little nitrates and ph around 7.9

I have had it set up for about 4 months, my clownfish have bonded with it. It’s a 20 gallon I have 2 fire fish and 2 clowns and clean up crew with some Ricordia Xenia scoly and Zoas (pictures included under) with AI prime My phosphate is 0.013, salinity 1.26, 0 nitrites and ammonia, very little nitrates and ph around 7.9

I have had it set up for about 4 months, my clownfish have bonded with it. It’s a 20 gallon I have 2 fire fish and 2 clowns and clean up crew with some Ricordia Xenia scoly and Zoas (pictures included under) with AI prime My phosphate is 0.013, salinity 1.26, 0 nitrites and ammonia, very little nitrates and ph around 7.9

 

[MartinM]

pH is low enough to be stressful, it should be ~8.3+ (I run 8.45) but likely it’s just deflating temporarily. Slowly (over at least 24 hours) try to increase your pH, tho.

Let us know if it doesn’t re-inflate in 48 hours.

 

[fishguy242]

hi, pics??

edit : @F i s h y @Eagle_Steve

 

[damsels are not mean]

pH is low enough to be stressful, it should be ~8.3+ (I run 8.45) but likely it’s just deflating temporarily. Slowly (over at least 24 hours) try to increase your pH, tho.

Let us know if it doesn’t re-inflate in 48 hours.

almost nobody maintains a ph that high consistently

 

[Jekyl]

pH is low enough to be stressful, it should be ~8.3+ (I run 8.45) but likely it’s just deflating temporarily. Slowly (over at least 24 hours) try to increase your pH, tho.

Let us know if it doesn’t re-inflate in 48 hours.

My ph is never that high and my nems thrive.

 

[damsels are not mean]

almost nobody maintains a ph that high consistently

not even the ocean

 

[SudzFD]

I have a rose bubble tip and it will not open up, it was open for the first two months I had it and now it’s really mad about something my salinity is at 1.026 no ammonia nitrites and little nitrates and my euphyilla and everything are okay.

Don’t worry too much. They do this from time to time. It should be fine. Keep an eye on it but leave it alone. If the mouth is gaping or there is brown junk spewing out, or it detaches, then it’s likely a goner.

 

[Jekyl]

The fact that's it just sitting in the substrate isn't good. As mentioned your tank is pretty new which is for sure working against you. With how it looks I'd say a treatment of cipro may be needed. It is definitely on the way out.

 

[Jekyl]

Don’t worry too much. They do this from time to time. It should be fine. Keep an eye on it but leave it alone. If the mouth is gaping or there is brown junk spewing out, or it detaches, then it’s likely a goner.

It already detached and is sitting in his substrate. This doesn't seem like an everything will be ok situation. The anemone is obviously stressed just by seeing the picture.

 

[damsels are not mean]

No other corals are showing signs of stress? Might be that the anemone was never actually healthy and simply too this long to succumb.

Whenever the tank looks bad and you don't know why, the first thing you should do is a big water change. There's lots of stuff we can't/don't test for and if it's water chemistry a water change will instantly fix that. It also won't kill anything else or throw things out of balance like some chemical solutions might.

 

[F i s h y]

Ph should definitely be 8 or above long term. Based on the pic provided your nem is suffering from a bacterial infection and has started to melt. It's long term prognosis is not good and you should be prepared to remove it as to not foul your water. If you have a qt tank and access to cipro you should immediately start treatment.

 

[F i s h y]

not even the ocean

False

 

[damsels are not mean]

False

normal ocean pH is mostly around 8.1-8.3 with some areas going a bit higher or lower. 8.4+ is not the norm around reefs so to say that you need 8.4 for your anemones to be healthy is just nonsense

 

[fishguy242]

FACT ,PH level fluctuates 24-7 in most home reef tanks without being controlled.
check same time of day every time you check.

Fact :Surface seawaters in the Arctic have a pH of about 8.1, with a range of about 7.5 to 8.4.

although most ,do not run reef at 32 degrees.

HELP threads are not for debates.

 

[DonTavo27]

The tank looks like it’s missing all the key elements…
What are the rest of the parameters at?
I’ve been able to keep anemones from day one of setting up a tank. You shouldn’t have a problem if you’re keeping everything stable
e.g. Calcium, Alkalinity, magnesium, and salinity, should fluctuate very little.

 

[MartinM]

The photo didn’t load for me when I first replied, yes, it shouldn’t be unattached as others have mentioned. I’d try dosing Ciprofloxacin at 1/4th the dose typically used for H. Mag’s (see the stickies in the anemone forum) with freshly mixed NSW in a QT tank.

IME anemones nearly always need an antibiotic treatment (although because they can take months to finally succumb, it isn’t always readily apparent). That being said, the dosage used to treat H. Mags is too high for most other species (especially carpets) and will kill them, so it’s best to go low dose.

Does your tank have live rock, water motion, etc? It looks possibly too basic for anemone care