Please identify this dino
- Thread starter vetdog13
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It's primarily on the sand at the front of the tank but is starting to get on the rocks. A few strands will attach to the glass but I've removed those. I dumped a bag of pods in last night and a bottle of Dr. Tims one and only yesterday morning. Unfortunately looking worse
That is ostreopsis dino.
a) Fire up or order up a UV sterilizer pronto. 1 watt per 3 gallons. Slow flow, running TO AND FROM THE DISPLAY not in the sump. This is a game changer with ostreopsis.
b) Start dosing nitrates & phosphates until they are consistently above 10-15 and .1 - .15
c) Run some activated carbon to remove the toxins these produce.
d) physically remove as much as possible. Clamp some filter floss in high flow, high light areas. Rinse each night.
e) Stop/reduce any and all nutrient removal tools in place. No GFO, no bacteria, no carbon, skim dry only, shorten light cycle of fuge. Do NOT use Dino-X
f) No aminos for a long time. Unless you come to like dinos.
g) Feed fish heavy.
I pretty much spared you from reading the first 8,643 posts in this thread, but for more info:
www.reef2reef.com
When you start seeing new cyano and some algae, you'll know you are making headway. Keep the nutrients up.
b) Start dosing nitrates & phosphates until they are consistently above 10-15 and .1 - .15
c) Run some activated carbon to remove the toxins these produce.
d) physically remove as much as possible. Clamp some filter floss in high flow, high light areas. Rinse each night.
e) Stop/reduce any and all nutrient removal tools in place. No GFO, no bacteria, no carbon, skim dry only, shorten light cycle of fuge. Do NOT use Dino-X
f) No aminos for a long time. Unless you come to like dinos.
g) Feed fish heavy.
I pretty much spared you from reading the first 8,643 posts in this thread, but for more info:
Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?
I don't know what percentage of folks had luck battling dinos with any of the methods in the old Dino thread but it's obviously a very low percentage, so I'd like refresh folks on the natural alternatives and lay out three areas of info: some of the factors that contribute to a dino outbreak...
www.reef2reef.com
When you start seeing new cyano and some algae, you'll know you are making headway. Keep the nutrients up.
Thanks! Any suggestions on plumbing the UV to a Red Sea Max e260?a) Fire up or order up a UV sterilizer pronto. 1 watt per 3 gallons. Slow flow, running TO AND FROM THE DISPLAY not in the sump. This is a game changer with ostreopsis.
b) Start dosing nitrates & phosphates until they are consistently above 10-15 and .1 - .15
c) Run some activated carbon to remove the toxins these produce.
d) physically remove as much as possible. Clamp some filter floss in high flow, high light areas. Rinse each night.
e) Stop/reduce any and all nutrient removal tools in place. No GFO, no bacteria, no carbon, skim dry only, shorten light cycle of fuge. Do NOT use Dino-X
f) No aminos for a long time. Unless you come to like dinos.
g) Feed fish heavy.
I pretty much spared you from reading the first 8,643 posts in this thread, but for more info:
Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?
I don't know what percentage of folks had luck battling dinos with any of the methods in the old Dino thread but it's obviously a very low percentage, so I'd like refresh folks on the natural alternatives and lay out three areas of info: some of the factors that contribute to a dino outbreak...
When you start seeing new cyano and some algae, you'll know you are making headway. Keep the nutrients up.
NowGlazeIT
Happy to help, Ask away.
To run something from and to the display, avoiding the sump, would require a external pump and a T or split in your drain’s plumbing.
Think of a creating a “U” shape of pvc or hose for both the input and output such that it acts as both plumbing and structural attachment. Can get a pick of my ugly setup in the morning.
Think more temporary. Just a small maxjet 1200 pump attached to a hose or pvc feeding the UV hanging on the Outside. Output back to display is just another U or J shape to dump it back in the display.
Aqua Ultraviolet makes a very solid unit. Expensive. If you choose this route, I would size up larger as the unit will last and you can use it on your next (larger) tank.
The cheaper route has been Green Killing Machine. It seems to have worked for many. Heard a lot of complaints about Jaebo units so maybe steer clear there.
Thanks for all your help ScottB. I've been cleaning the top of the sand each day, running the water back into the sump through a 50 or 100 micron sock (can't remember which)seems to be making somewhat of a dent and feeding a little more then I usually would. I've kept my nero off and skimmer off for the past few days but should I have the extra flow and skimmer running? I'm going to order the UV light tonight.
Good on the UV order. Which unit? Is it an "in tank" unit or will you need to hook it up? If you are doing the plumbing -- and ur not a PVC plumber, grab some hose, hose clamps, 4 X 90 degree hose connectors and a small pump so you can be running the same night it lands. UV is very effective against ostreopsis.
I like the gas exchange that a skimmer does so I would run it. Just set it to skim dry (where the bubbles don't make it to the collection cup). I also kept my flow high. Not that it visually or logically did much against the dinos, but because that is what my corals were used to.
Hang in there. Once nutrients are up and UV running you will start to see a real difference in dino population.
I ordered the Pentair aquatics 25W. Really having problems here with trying to keep up with manual removal. They come back worse each day. Don't know when its going to arrive. BRS showed my order with items shipped which isn't showing the UV unit just other items I ordered. freaking out bc I want to get a hold on this.
If you can call them to check on ship status do so. Just so you know when to expect it.
What is your coral stock list like? If it is a lot of expensive/dear animals at stake, that is one thing. If it is mostly fish/inverts you can afford to relax.
If you have a lot of coral, there are 2 damaging elements at play for sure:
1) nutrient strip by the ostreopsis
2) toxins produced by ostreopsis
The damage takes place at the tips and margins of SPS if you have them. Watch your ALK too, as consumption plummets while they hunker down.
Looking back, I gave you a,b,c,d,.... so implement as many of these as you can. Amazon Prime for NeoNitro and NwoPhos to keep it simple. Flying the flags of filter floss is pretty helpful while you wait. Here is an image of how I afixed:
What is your coral stock list like? If it is a lot of expensive/dear animals at stake, that is one thing. If it is mostly fish/inverts you can afford to relax.
If you have a lot of coral, there are 2 damaging elements at play for sure:
1) nutrient strip by the ostreopsis
2) toxins produced by ostreopsis
The damage takes place at the tips and margins of SPS if you have them. Watch your ALK too, as consumption plummets while they hunker down.
Looking back, I gave you a,b,c,d,.... so implement as many of these as you can. Amazon Prime for NeoNitro and NwoPhos to keep it simple. Flying the flags of filter floss is pretty helpful while you wait. Here is an image of how I afixed:
Thats a nice crop of dinos you have there. Better there than on your corals.Love BRS but downside is no communication on the weekends. How long do you leave the filter flags in there? I’ve had one in since this morning and it’s insane how much is on it
If it is easy, you could rinse them midday and evening, I typically just rinse & replace in the evenings. The stuff stays attached pretty well. Blow or scrub off other areas and they will attach quicker to the flags. Hang as many as you like. I was up to three at one point.
Man these flags are amazing! I see a huge difference today. I’ve been changing them twice daily and the Dino’s have been knocked down considerably. IV should be here tomorrow but pump not until Friday unfortunately.
