Please review my plumbing job!

[SallyWho]

I *think* I did this acceptably, but I want to have some more experienced eyes on it before I glue anything. I'm a total noob when it comes to plumbing! A few notes: the primary drain is the near one with the gate valve, the secondary drain is in the middle. I had to get a little wonky with it to get it around the primary drain. Can you think of a way I could clean that up? Secondly, I do realize that the chunk from the return pump to the tee is ugly and leaning, but I could not for the life of me get it to stay straight. The small bit of clear tubing just won't unbend, even after apply heat and traction. And, yes, i am supporting my little manifold (in case I need it in the future) via zip ties. It's all I could think of at the moment. Also, I do realize that the return lines are a bit far away from the tank- I can bring it all closer once I get the drain lines glued in and know exactly how much room I can spare. How can I support the return lines so they don't pull on the bulkheads, though? They're still going to be too far from the stand to insert a block and screw in a hose clamp.

So what do y'all think? Serviceable? Have I done anything stupid? Missed anything obvious? Could I improve on it somehow? Let me know (gently, because this is my first tank!)!

 

[ReeferBean]

You can use pvc strap instead. Like this- https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-33927-...ocphy=9060367&hvtargid=pla-318015740102&psc=1

If your supported underneath there shouldn't be very much stress on the bulkheads up top.

Silicone Tubing from BRS instead of the vinyl if you want. Its really flexible.

I think the threaded couplers under your overflow box are unnecessary as you have a union just below that. Just more places to have a leak.

I'd move your primary gate valve between those two 90s before your sock. Then you can shorten that vertical pipe that comes from your overflow box and run the secondary underneath it rather than wrapping it around like you have.

Just some suggestions, but that will work either way.

 

[Crabs McJones]

I *think* I did this acceptably, but I want to have some more experienced eyes on it before I glue anything. I'm a total noob when it comes to plumbing! A few notes: the primary drain is the near one with the gate valve, the secondary drain is in the middle. I had to get a little wonky with it to get it around the primary drain. Can you think of a way I could clean that up? Secondly, I do realize that the chunk from the return pump to the tee is ugly and leaning, but I could not for the life of me get it to stay straight. The small bit of clear tubing just won't unbend, even after apply heat and traction. And, yes, i am supporting my little manifold (in case I need it in the future) via zip ties. It's all I could think of at the moment. Also, I do realize that the return lines are a bit far away from the tank- I can bring it all closer once I get the drain lines glued in and know exactly how much room I can spare. How can I support the return lines so they don't pull on the bulkheads, though? They're still going to be too far from the stand to insert a block and screw in a hose clamp.

So what do y'all think? Serviceable? Have I done anything stupid? Missed anything obvious? Could I improve on it somehow? Let me know (gently, because this is my first tank!)!

The only issue I potentially see is you're going to have uneven return pump flow. You have one channel that runs farther then the other, your flow is going to favor the shorter route with less resistance.

 

[Greybeard]

Not bad. If you're happy with it... glue it up. I don't see any reasons why it wouldn't work as is.

A few things I might do differently.. I might have used spa-flex on at the outlet points. Let you route around without all those joints, maybe get a little smoother flow.

I like the poly tube on the pump outlet. It really helps isolate vibration. Looks like it's clamped securely, with nylon... fine job.

I question the need for a gate valve on the return line. Won't hurt anything, but it seems a bit unnecessary.

I might, however, put ball valves on each of the split returns. Just to allow you to turn off one of the return lines, should you have need, or even adjust flow as needed to provide the in tank flow patterns you might want.

1st time? Excellent

I highly recommend good glue and primer. I like PVC solvents that are a bit 'hotter' than average. The thick blue stuff works far better for me than the thin clear stuff.

 

[ReeferBean]

The only issue I potentially see is you're going to have uneven return pump flow. You have one channel that runs farther then the other, your flow is going to favor the shorter route with less resistance.

Good catch. On my build, I put valves at each outlet before my sea swirls to account for this. You can even do one on the shorter (least resistance) run and it would force water over to the other for more even flow.

 

[ReeferBean]

Not bad. If you're happy with it... glue it up. I don't see any reasons why it wouldn't work as is.

A few things I might do differently.. I might have used spa-flex on at the outlet points. Let you route around without all those joints, maybe get a little smoother flow.

I like the poly tube on the pump outlet. It really helps isolate vibration. Looks like it's clamped securely, with nylon... fine job.

I question the need for a gate valve on the return line. Won't hurt anything, but it seems a bit unnecessary.

I might, however, put ball valves on each of the split returns. Just to allow you to turn off one of the return lines, should you have need, or even adjust flow as needed to provide the in tank flow patterns you might want.

1st time? Excellent

I highly recommend good glue and primer. I like PVC solvents that are a bit 'hotter' than average. The thick blue stuff works far better for me than the thin clear stuff.

The valve on the return line is so he can close it some and force water into his manifold.

 

[SallyWho]

You can use pvc strap instead. Like this- https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-33927-...ocphy=9060367&hvtargid=pla-318015740102&psc=1

If your supported underneath there shouldn't be very much stress on the bulkheads up top.

I think the threaded couplers under your overflow box are unnecessary as you have a union just below that. Just more places to have a leak.

I'd move your primary gate valve between those two 90s before your sock. Then you can shorten that vertical pipe that comes from your overflow box and run the secondary underneath it rather than wrapping it around like you have.

Just some suggestions, but that will work either way.

Thanks for the reassurance on those bulkheads- had me a little concerned. And I've got threaded couplers there as reducers. The drains are 1.5" (I forgot to ask MM to downsize them), and 1.5" PVC wouldn't fit in my car....so I reduced it to 1.25". Apparently that quarter inch in circumference makes a big difference when you have to cram the pvc from the trunk of your sedan all the way up to your front dashboard! And moving the gate valve is a really good idea! That will make it more accessible, too, in addition to cleaning up that ugly 2° drain line.

The only issue I potentially see is you're going to have uneven return pump flow. You have one channel that runs farther then the other, your flow is going to favor the shorter route with less resistance.

Hm. Good point. Hadn't considered that. I think I'll do what @ReeferBean suggested and add a ball valve to the shorter return. That way I can even out the flow.

 

[ReeferBean]

Thanks for the reassurance on those bulkheads- had me a little concerned. And I've got threaded couplers there as reducers. The drains are 1.5" (I forgot to ask MM to downsize them), and 1.5" PVC wouldn't fit in my car....so I reduced it to 1.25". Apparently that quarter inch in circumference makes a big difference when you have to cram the pvc from the trunk of your sedan all the way up to your front dashboard! And moving the gate valve is a really good idea! That will make it more accessible, too, in addition to cleaning up that ugly 2° drain line.

Hm. Good point. Hadn't considered that. I think I'll do what @ReeferBean suggested and add a ball valve to the shorter return. That way I can even out the flow.

I see now. I would order a few of these instead so you can glue them in. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/sche...-slip-1-0a656cc19f3f5b41530182a9e03982a4.html

 

[SallyWho]

I see now. I would order a few of these instead so you can glue them in. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/sche...-slip-1-0a656cc19f3f5b41530182a9e03982a4.html

Man, those would simplify my life for sure. I was really hoping to be able to get my tank wet by the end of the week, though. And it doesn't appear that any of the big box stores have anything like this. Now my conundrum is to keep it as is with a higher risk of leaks, or wait to fill the tank until the reducers arrive. *sigh*

 

[ReeferBean]

Man, those would simplify my life for sure. I was really hoping to be able to get my tank wet by the end of the week, though. And it doesn't appear that any of the big box stores have anything like this. Now my conundrum is to keep it as is with a higher risk of leaks, or wait to fill the tank until the reducers arrive. *sigh*

Take your time and you will be much happier with the final product. But I feel your pain. Up to you really.

Or you can try to find a reducer bushing for the union, instead of the reducing coupler.

If you do order from BRS, you can also get some sweep 90s for your two returns. Those would also reduce the amount of head pressure and increase the flow into the display.