Plumbing a tank

[PghReef]

Finally getting around to setting up my 90gal rr tank I purchased 5 years ago. This will be my first time using a sump and plumbing a tank. I've done house plumbing just never on a tank.

As usual the tank is a corner overflow with 2 1 inch bulkheads. I decided to run an herbie with the return over the back for safety since the tank is upstairs and a flood would be a terrible idea. The tank itself is built into floor to ceiling cabinets where the tank acts as a 10inch jut out.

For the drains I'm planning on using 1 inch open top pvc that will be cut about a half inch below the wier grates. No strainer and straight into the sump with just a single union so I can disconnect the sump if needed, this will be my emergency. The main drain cut about 4 inches below that with a strainer and a inch gate valve. I plan on putting a union before and after the valve.

The return line is where I'm questioning what I want to do. I drilled a hole in the back of the stand to pass the pipe through and keep it secure. Pump has a 1 inch outlet. I'm thinking of using a short piece of flexible hose for vibration reduction from pump to a barbed connector then hard plumbing 1 inch pvc with a T so I can run a carbon reactor if needed. Once I get through the stand reducing to 3/4inch, put a 3/4inch gate valve, some elbows, and a locline.

Hows that all sound?
Should I t off the main return or should I just use a second pump for reactor and pump the outlet back to the sump? Return pump is an a/c fluval sp4 that will need throttles down significantly I believe. Rated for 1800gph before head loss.

 

[PghReef]

I've also wonder where I should reduce the return from 1inch to 3/4inch. I can do it right out the top of the stand so it runs 2 feet at 3/4 pvc with 3/4 elbows and 3/4 gate, or I could run 1 inch with a 1 inch gate and reduce right before the locline. Not sure if it matters or if I'm over thinking things.

 

[nereefpat]

It sounds to me like you have it figured out.
The Herbie is perfect for your setup, with the return over the back panel.

I went closer to 6" below the emergency/trickle for the main drain, but 4" is probably fine. You just don't want to have a vortex pulling air from the surface. The lower the drain, the more flow it can handle, but the more water will drain into your sump when the pump is off.

I like to run a separate small pump (like a maxi jet) for reactors, so I don't have to fiddle with the gate valve on the Herbie due to turning on/off reactors.

I don't like loc line. It reduces flow, and I always get algae growing on and around it. I would just run 1" PVC the whole way.

 

[Max_nano]

When you do your return line, drill a small hole in the return somewhere that would drain into the tank. It will work as a siphon break and significantly reduce the amount of water that goes to your sump. I think this is essential when going over the top edge for the return

 

[PghReef]

When you do your return line, drill a small hole in the return somewhere that would drain into the tank. It will work as a siphon break and significantly reduce the amount of water that goes to your sump. I think this is essential when going over the top edge for the return

Agreed, besides having the nozzles near the top and enough room in the sump I do plan on drilling a small hole or 2.

 

[PghReef]

It sounds to me like you have it figured out.
The Herbie is perfect for your setup, with the return over the back panel.

I went closer to 6" below the emergency/trickle for the main drain, but 4" is probably fine. You just don't want to have a vortex pulling air from the surface. The lower the drain, the more flow it can handle, but the more water will drain into your sump when the pump is off.

I like to run a separate small pump (like a maxi jet) for reactors, so I don't have to fiddle with the gate valve on the Herbie due to turning on/off reactors.

I don't like loc line. It reduces flow, and I always get algae growing on and around it. I would just run 1" PVC the whole way.

I'm thinking start higher and I can always cut it shorter as needed. Will the strainer help reduce the chance of a vertex since it has a solid top and the slits in the sides?

 

[Idoc]

Good advice above...I use a Herbie and over the rim return just like this.

I don't think it matters about when you reduce to 3/4" on your return line...but going full 1" all the way would work as well. I use loc-line but have been considering getting rid of it due to it getting in the way all the time and junk growing on it.

I would go about 6" below your emergency drain for your full siphon drain line...this helps get the full siphon going the lower it is placed.

I would run a separate pump and manifold for any additional items rather than t-ing off your return line. Every time you adjust those reactors, you will need to adjust the drain flow to keep the herbie dialed in if you run a T off the return.

Definitely determine the height where you want the main DT water to stop flowing down into the sump and drill a 1/4" hole in the over the rim return line...this will break the siphon back to the sump and stop the water at that hole's level. A couple of times a year, you will want to ensure this hole is still open and not clogged up.

 

[nereefpat]

I'm thinking start higher and I can always cut it shorter as needed. Will the strainer help reduce the chance of a vertex since it has a solid top and the slits in the sides?

Good question...I don't know. I don't use a strainer there, since I don't keep inverts.