Plumbing design and help

[Burrito]

Hi Everyone,

I will be starting up a 100G bean drilled tank with a trigger 34 sump in the coming weeks and am planning my plumbing. i've only ever had AIO tanks so this is new to me. how does the concept below look, I am a terrible sketcher...

the tank will be an IM 100INT so the bean holes and return are drilled into the bottom of the tank behind a false wall. order is Edrain, 2nd drain, return, main drain (drains are 1', return is 3/4")

DRAINS: plan is to have a lot of unions, 1 union at the start and end of each drain, and the main drain will have a 1' gate valve. primary and secondary plumbed into 1" trigger bulk heads and E-drain plumbed to refugium area

RETURN: will plumb for a manifold, just in case... vectra m1 with 3/4 barb adaptor 1-2' of flex hose to another 3/4 barb/slip and then begin the hard plumbing again. order will be from return to tank.
Vectra -> 3/4barb -> 3/4 hose -> 3/4 barb -> union -> 3/4 t-fitting (manifold will go here) -> a few elbows to get under tank -> union -> ball valve (needed?) -> check valve -> tank

MANIFOLD off return line T: pipe with 3 3/4" Ts to a ball valve union each and an end cap

am i missing anything, my horrible sketches to follow and the tank plumbing above the bulkheads

 

[Brew12]

Hi Everyone,

I will be starting up a 100G bean drilled tank with a trigger 34 sump in the coming weeks and am planning my plumbing. i've only ever had AIO tanks so this is new to me. how does the concept below look, I am a terrible sketcher...

the tank will be an IM 100INT so the bean holes and return are drilled into the bottom of the tank behind a false wall. order is Edrain, 2nd drain, return, main drain (drains are 1', return is 3/4")

DRAINS: plan is to have a lot of unions, 1 union at the start and end of each drain, and the main drain will have a 1' gate valve. primary and secondary plumbed into 1" trigger bulk heads and E-drain plumbed to refugium area

RETURN: will plumb for a manifold, just in case... vectra m1 with 3/4 barb adaptor 1-2' of flex hose to another 3/4 barb/slip and then begin the hard plumbing again. order will be from return to tank.
Vectra -> 3/4barb -> 3/4 hose -> 3/4 barb -> union -> 3/4 t-fitting (manifold will go here) -> a few elbows to get under tank -> union -> ball valve (needed?) -> check valve -> tank

MANIFOLD off return line T: pipe with 3 3/4" Ts to a ball valve union each and an end cap

am i missing anything, my horrible sketches to follow and the tank plumbing above the bulkheads

I'd say everything looks pretty good although I would at least consider doing a 1" line on the return up to the manifold. I would also put the ball valve between the check valve and the tank. That way you can isolate the tank from the check valve to perform maintenance on the check valve.

 

[theMeat]

Looks good

Check valve on saltwater is useless after it’s a few-6 months old. Do a siphon break

Good idea to have a section vinyl tubing coming off pump to add some flex and help isolate vibration/noise, then transition to rigid pvc
Also a good idea to have section off each bulkhead so any movement or bumping into it doesn’t put leverage on the weakest point, which is the bulkhead

 

[Greybeard]

Looks fine.

As others have mentioned above, I don't use, or recommend, check valves. You should design the system so that it is unnecessary, because it WILL fail... and if it's designed not to need one, why put one in?

True Union Ball valves. Being able to turn off lines is as important as being able to disassemble. These allow both.

I like a short bit of silicone tube, instead of vinyl, on the return pump. More expensive, but easier to work with, and much more flexible. Nylon hose clamps.

My testing process on new plumbing:

Fill with tap water and test. You're looking for leaks, sure, but you're also evaluating noise levels.
Take your time, it's much easier to change or fix problems now than it will be later.
Turn off the return pump. Does the sump handle the extra volume when everything settles?
Plug primary drain tube. Does the 2nd drain handle full pump flow?
If it doesn't, you're one turbo snail away from a flooded living room!

Battery powered water alarms are a simple, inexpensive, and valuable addition to any aquarium stand!