Plumbing help for Bean Animal

[RabbitReef]

So I got rid of the 180, I just knew I would not be happy.

Before I order some new plumbing would like to see what everyone recommends. 225g with 3 drain at 1" and two return at 3/4". Should I just run the 1" from overflow to the sump, or would anyone recommend up-sizing any of the drains. There are mixed opinions on which should be done here. Store claims to just keep everything 1". Thanks

 

[User1]

On my 210 I went with 3 x 1 1/2" drains and 2 x 1" returns. The only thing that happened to me is that the builder made the overflow box a bit smaller than what I wanted with regards to width and I couldn't fit the 1 1/2" plumbing in it so ended up reducing down to 1" anyway.

Your drains sound fine. I would probably keep everything 1" or at least match it to the pump you are going to purchase.

 

[RabbitReef]

On my 210 I went with 3 x 1 1/2" drains and 2 x 1" returns. The only thing that happened to me is that the builder made the overflow box a bit smaller than what I wanted with regards to width and I couldn't fit the 1 1/2" plumbing in it so ended up reducing down to 1" anyway.

Your drains sound fine. I would probably keep everything 1" or at least match it to the pump you are going to purchase.

Will be running the Varios-6 split in the manifold to feed the two 3/4" returns.

 

[User1]

I don't know much about that pump, sorry. However, depending on what size the output is I'd keep it to that manifold or not or at least see what the pump manufacture recommends for outlet size. Some pumps / manufactures want it set to a specific size and anything else may cause noise or lower output.

 

[JDnKY]

Will be running the Varios-6 split in the manifold to feed the two 3/4" returns.

I use the Varios-8 and have a 6 as a backup. They both have 1.25” return. I ran 1.25” pvc to a T then reduced them to one inch to the tank. Works great and have used both pumps to push water from my basement sump to a 180.

 

[JDnKY]

I use the Varios-8 and have a 6 as a backup. They both have 1.25” return. I ran 1.25” pvc to a T then reduced them to one inch to the tank. Works great and have used both pumps to push water from my basement sump to a 180.

Oh, I also used a 1.25” Y check valve to prevent backflow when the pump is off.

 

[RabbitReef]

Quick question on the diameter for the drains. 1" bulk heads from the tank and 1.5" bulkheads on the sump. Which option would be best;

1" pvc to 1.5" reducer coupler into a 1.5" gate valve and then plumbed to the 1.5" bulkhead
or
1" pvc to 1" gate valve then plumbed into a reducing bushing in the 1.5" bulkhead

Also should add; I am worried that 1" drains would not be able to give me enough tank turn over. Would increasing the pvc diameter even help with flow?

Thanks

 

[ca1ore]

What kind of overflow are you planning to use? If you have the space, the newer ghost style models are superior in every way to corner overflows. Also, depending on the amount of drop, a 1” siphon will move a ton of water. Open channels not so much.

 

[RabbitReef]

What kind of overflow are you planning to use? If you have the space, the newer ghost style models are superior in every way to corner overflows. Also, depending on the amount of drop, a 1” siphon will move a ton of water. Open channels not so much.

Center overflow box has three 1" bulkheads and two 3/4" bulkheads

 

[RabbitReef]

Looking for some recommendations.. Was trying my best not to have any 90 degree elbows. Unfortunately this will be tough with how tall the sump is. Im using some white pvc for some templates. I have a return line I am trying to dodge or go around, I don't want any crazy fittings to restrict the flow from the return pump. Also since I am stuck with 1" I'm trying not to restrict any flow in the drains as well.

I like the idea of having some ball valves as close to the bulkhead as possible, this though brought the drains pretty low to where it may be tight against the sump, requiring a 90 elbow on the sump bulkhead.

image upload


This way clearly dodges the return line, but of course now utilizes 90 degree elbows to keep the plumbing up and tight.

 

[JoshH]

Looking for some recommendations.. Was trying my best not to have any 90 degree elbows. Unfortunately this will be tough with how tall the sump is. Im using some white pvc for some templates. I have a return line I am trying to dodge or go around, I don't want any crazy fittings to restrict the flow from the return pump. Also since I am stuck with 1" I'm trying not to restrict any flow in the drains as well.

I like the idea of having some ball valves as close to the bulkhead as possible, this though brought the drains pretty low to where it may be tight against the sump, requiring a 90 elbow on the sump bulkhead.

image upload


This way clearly dodges the return line, but of course now utilizes 90 degree elbows to keep the plumbing up and tight.

I would just use the 90s. This 45 fad is really just that, a fad, there have been a few videos showing there is little to no head loss difference between a 90 and two 45s. BRS made a really good one a little while ago about just this. 90s look cleaner and involve less gluing, plus as you have mentioned it gives you more head room in the stand which is always important.

 

[RabbitReef]

I would just use the 90s. This 45 fad is really just that, a fad, there have been a few videos showing there is little to no head loss difference between a 90 and two 45s. BRS made a really good one a little while ago about just this. 90s look cleaner and involve less gluing, plus as you have mentioned it gives you more head room in the stand which is always important.

Thank you JoshH. I always have used 90s in the past, but of course this time around, did not want to take any chances reducing any flow. I'll check out the BRS video. Any opinion on the ball valves? Gate valve will be on the full siphon as close to the sump as possible.

 

[JoshH]

Thank you JoshH. I always have used 90s in the past, but of course this time around, did not want to take any chances reducing any flow. I'll check out the BRS video. Any opinion on the ball valves? Gate valve will be on the full siphon as close to the sump as possible.

I think the ball valves can go where ever they are easiest to access. Keep your unions where they are right after the slip/thread adapters and maybe stagger the valves after the 45s on the straight. This is all just IMO obviously

 

[ccombs]

In regards to overflows and plumbing in general, see what Bill Wann has published.

 

[RabbitReef]

I think the ball valves can go where ever they are easiest to access. Keep your unions where they are right after the slip/thread adapters and maybe stagger the valves after the 45s on the straight. This is all just IMO obviously

So far I think this looks the cleanest. Return in front of the drains instead of behind.

 

[RabbitReef]

In regards to overflows and plumbing in general, see what Bill Wann has published.

Great video! Thank you

 

[Jshiloh]

This my synergy reef bean animal overflow on my 120. Reduced everything to 1”. Got a cor 20 feeding 2x 1” returns to the tank. According to my apex I’m doing 630 gph back to the tank.

 

[RabbitReef]

I think I may just run two return pumps, not to create more of a pain, but to make sure I get the amount of flow I'm looking for. I also have a 1/3 JBJ chiller, originally was going to plumb the chiller off the return and return back to the sump. I know this isn't the "ideal" way of doing it, but wasn't too concerned recirculating through the sump. I have a varios 6 (1700gph) and a varios 8 (2700gph). Thinking I may grab another varios 6 and run two returns..Doing this I may be able to run one of the pumps -> chiller -> display. The chiller is rated to a max flow rate of 2400, So not sure if i want to run a varios8 turned down or a varios 6 turned up. Any comments?

Also know the new vectra L2's are coming out, anyone know if they will be apex compatible?

 

[DesertReefT4r]

Here is how I set mine up on my 75g. Drains are 1" and return is a single 3/4".

 

[RabbitReef]

Also know the new vectra L2's are coming out, anyone know if they will be apex compatible?

I guess the L2's will still not be apex compatible from BRS.