Plumbing help guys
- Thread starter reewik
- Start date
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pickupman66
5000 Club Member
Reewick... Dont ask me... im the guy who went 2" on both drain and return from my sump on my 180.... go big or go home right?
anyways, my 180 has 1 1/2" drains with 1" returns so 2" seemed logical to me. my water travels at least 20 feet to and from the tank.
anyways, my 180 has 1 1/2" drains with 1" returns so 2" seemed logical to me. my water travels at least 20 feet to and from the tank.
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reewik
Active Member
180 , right now i am using crappy flex tubing and soft return lines. I was thinking of using the return pump or overflow line to feed the external skimmer. I do have this running to my sump under the stand.
I envision a line with a ball valve running to a quick disconnect to the sump from each overflow. Then I run an external return pump that needs return lines run. I am thinking T off pump, running to quick connects, the check valves , then ball valves then to return lines.
I would like to run one of the lines to the skimmer too.
I envision a line with a ball valve running to a quick disconnect to the sump from each overflow. Then I run an external return pump that needs return lines run. I am thinking T off pump, running to quick connects, the check valves , then ball valves then to return lines.
I would like to run one of the lines to the skimmer too.
Dowtish
5000 Club Member
This is what I used for both my overflows and return. These are super easy to turn and dial in if need be, and the unions are an awesome feature for easy disconnect.
Cepex Ball Valve - Bulk Reef Supply
Cepex Ball Valve - Bulk Reef Supply
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reewik
Active Member
Man, I can always count on you ( to spend my money!!) Thanks Bro... I think I am going to go ahead and plumb all schedule 80 for this project. It is some pretty looking stuff.. LOL
Now, what do I use to connect to the bulkheads?
Now, what do I use to connect to the bulkheads?
NeveSSL
2500 Club Member
Would you need a ball valve before and after your skimmer, or just after? I would think you might want one before it to control the flow rate through it and one after to control the level?
EDIT: *Doh!* I see it now. Its just a much smaller valve.
You could use a gate valve on the output of your skimmer for precise control. They're also only about $15 from McMaster-Carr.
My first thought is that your skimmer may just keep skimming the same water over and over since both the return and feed are in the same section, but I'm not sure how much this would happen in life vs. theory.
Brandon
EDIT: *Doh!* I see it now. Its just a much smaller valve.
You could use a gate valve on the output of your skimmer for precise control. They're also only about $15 from McMaster-Carr.My first thought is that your skimmer may just keep skimming the same water over and over since both the return and feed are in the same section, but I'm not sure how much this would happen in life vs. theory.
Brandon
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Bow
Well-Known Member
Looks like what you want to do would be easiest using a combo of ridged and flex pipe. You can find all kinds of fittings to go back and forth and hd,lowes, or a irrigation or pool supply warehouse
Dowtish
5000 Club Member
I highly suggest using 2 45's in place of all 90's. Less resistance.
I will also say that the 45's and 90's in schedule 80 are HUGE, but it does look really good!
I only hard plumbed the overflow as the manifold was already done and was just plain easier using flex for that. But notice the 2 45's so you can see what I'm talking about.
I will also say that the 45's and 90's in schedule 80 are HUGE, but it does look really good!
I only hard plumbed the overflow as the manifold was already done and was just plain easier using flex for that. But notice the 2 45's so you can see what I'm talking about.
andywe
Well-Known Member
I have not read everything in the thread, and Dowtfish has a great example. 45's are absolutely a better way in my opinion as well. I am just posting the type of manifold I suggest for simplicity and space for an external pump that are hard plumbed versus flex. Only reason I hard plumbed completely is that my stands are 30" + high and I had the room and wanted a very clean plumb line.
Your schematic showed the valveless up top along the back..it can get hard to reach after drains as well as electrical and the height of the sump. I eggiest a manifold off the top of the pump return. Its clean and if you need to replace anything, it is far easier to rebuild if necessary. I had to do it once and the only part I replaced was the valve bottom off the pump (which failed).
Your schematic showed the valveless up top along the back..it can get hard to reach after drains as well as electrical and the height of the sump. I eggiest a manifold off the top of the pump return. Its clean and if you need to replace anything, it is far easier to rebuild if necessary. I had to do it once and the only part I replaced was the valve bottom off the pump (which failed).
