Plumbing Help

De Michieli

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I am getting ready to start plumbing my overflows soon and am trying to figure out what type I should use. This is a 150 reef ready tank with 2 overflows and each one has 2 drilled holes. I am going to be using a Trigger Systems Emerald 39 sump with a VERTEX OMEGA 200I PROTEIN SKIMMER as well as a VECTRA L1 DC - ECOTECH MARINE return pump. There will be about 5-4 feet of head pressure. I would like it to be as quiet as possible and it will be for a sps dominate tank. Any advice on overflow style will be greatly appreciated as this is the first overflow I am plumbing.
 
Sounds like you have a two standard durso overflow drains, and two returns.
The simplest way is to "Y" off the return pump to a barb connection on the bulkheads connected to the tank.
As for the drains you'll have to route each drain to the TSE39 drain couplers, if you don't want to use PVC, flex holes and barbs fitting are the easiest.
 
I only have experience with durso style overflows myself, and consider them pretty quite. Can only suggest as large a diameter of PVC as possible, so as to reduce overall head. If using rigid PVC I suggest lots of unions, with no valving or restrictions in the drain line. In the supply line I suggest tru-union style valves.
 
I was going to use plenty of unions and try not to use any 90. I have read that the Durso can be loud with alot of flow ( I have one on my 30 gal and it makes some noise)
 
Do you have a tube in the air hole? I have found that restricting, or fine tuning, the air flow makes them more quite and more efficient - kind of like a throttle. I've used both rigid PVC and flexible hose in my system, and wish I had not used the flex. It seems to get more rigid over time, and I wonder if what movement there is might cause undo stresses on fittings and bulkheads. I also used a Y-fitting to join my two returns, but then split them again so as to use two filter socks - this helps me by allowing me to alternate cleaning them. In hindsight, I might not have combined them via the Y-fitting at all.
 
I do have a tube in the air port to adjust the water level it use to be quiet but when my main pump failed i used a left over pump from the 150 ( old owner) and now I cant get it to be quiet. Also I want it to look flush because I am going to be having a hanging fixture (ATI PowerModel) and dont want any plumbing to be sticking up from the returns. If you guys think that is the best bet to use durso ill go that route.
 
I suggest the following:

drain 1, overflow 1: full siphon
drain 1, overflow 2: open channel
drain 2, overflow 2: emergency drain
drain 2, overflow 1: return or don't use.
over the back returns.

This gives you a bean animal full siphon drain with backup with a less than ideal reef ready tank. Best of course is return the tank if you can and get a non reef ready and drill for a regular bean.
 
In hindsight, if I could do it all over again, and space was no concern, I would include an emergency overflow standpipe - just a plain pvc pipe cut just above the water line, but under the tank rim. Without any other kind of protection, all it takes is a turbo snail to impede flow a little, and there's trouble.
 
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See IDK I have never had a issue with something getting into the overflow. (maybe because i have a lid)
 
do a test setup in your garage and play with it until you get it working.

Be sure 1) power out no flood, 2) power return results in normal operation, 3) drain blockage doesn't result in display flood.

my .02
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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