Plumbing help

[Nsakis1]

Asking for some help please. I have the Eshopps Prodigy L overflow and decided to pay a professional to plumb the tank as I’m flooding the floor is not an option. I was watching all the kids while the guy worked on it in the garage. He didn’t have the correct size bulk heads to finish the return but I came out to this when he was done:

2 main questions:
1. Why did he decide to plumb both returns into one?
2. Why no plumbing inside the overflow box?

I am very disappointed and feel like this was a hurry up job. I was already unimpressed with the cost and was hoping for some A+ work. He works at one of the two saltwater stores in town so I am trying to avoid any conflict. I’m trying to stay positive but everything I had read about this return notes many other details that need to be taken into account for minimal noise and optimal performance.
Help please

 

[sergifed91]

Following

 

[lapin]

First it was supposed to be a bean animal. Main, Trickle, Emergency
What you got was a herbie sort of
If you could take the right down pipe and add a gate valve before the union then it would work.
For plumbing inside the box you would add a stand pipe to the middle and right.
Something like this picture

https://www.acuarios-marinos.com/attachments/bean-animal-2-jpg.58983/

 

[Nsakis1]

First it was supposed to be a bean animal. Main, Trickle, Emergency
What you got was a herbie sort of
If you could take the right down pipe and add a gate valve before the union then it would work.
For plumbing inside the box you would add a stand pipe to the middle and right.
Something like this picture

https://www.acuarios-marinos.com/attachments/bean-animal-2-jpg.58983/

Bean animal is exactly what I was expecting.
That picture is also similar to what I was expecting inside the box but after receiving the reply “Well everyone plumbs tanks a little differently” I realized it was time to shell out the cash, learn from my mistake, and finish the rest myself.
Am I silly to expect this to ultimately work out without alterations? I obviously plan on doing a test fill and running it to see just how it works but I’m not very optimistic...

 

[RocketEngineer]

That isn’t even a Herbie. I don’t know what that is but it’s junk IMO. You would be better off starting over. Plumbing in rigid PVC is about ensuring there is glue all the way around the socket and cleaning both socket and pipe before gluing.

 

[Nsakis1]

That isn’t even a Herbie. I don’t know what that is but it’s junk IMO. You would be better off starting over. Plumbing in rigid PVC is about ensuring there is glue all the way around the socket and cleaning both socket and pipe before gluing.

I undid and plumbed it my way. I’m embarrassed I lost $200 on “professional” labor but live a d learn I guess ‍

 

[DrZoidburg]

That plumber job would work but the valve is not greatest quality. Depends a lot on your return pump as well. Too much gph and it would just over flow into emergency anyway. To do it their way at least make it go into a bigger diameter tee, valve and drain after. Your way better but depending on return pump size maybe not necessary.

 

[RafaelNorman]

I saw your forum post about the Eshopps Prodigy L overflow and your recent plumbing installation. I hope you're doing well.

 

[Nsakis1]

I saw your forum post about the Eshopps Prodigy L overflow and your recent plumbing installation. I hope you're doing well.

Doing well! Still won’t ever use this box again because of the internal box noise tho

 

[RafaelNorman]

I saw your forum post about the Eshopps Prodigy L overflow and your recent plumbing installation. I hope you're doing well.

Speaking of help, having a good salary can often help alleviate some of life's stresses. In fact, the average salary in Alaska is $64,325. While that may not be directly related to your plumbing situation, it's still interesting to remember.
Anyway, back to your installation. I'm sorry to hear that the professional you hired didn't have the correct size bulkheads to finish the return. I hope everything gets sorted out for you soon.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Doing well! Still won’t ever use this box again because of the internal box noise tho

If its a gurgling noise youre referring to, you are missing a siphon break. The center pipe with cap- Drill a 3/8" hole and place a small tube preferably rigid but air line tube will work and kill the noise

 

[Troylee]

What you did on your own is much better! You always want the drains separate and if at all possible use a couple 45’s over a 90 if the space provides it! 90 degree turns kill flow!

 

[Nsakis1]

If its a gurgling noise youre referring to, you are missing a siphon break. The center pipe with cap- Drill a 3/8" hole and place a small tube preferably rigid but air line tube will work and kill the noise

It’s not. I was able to isolate the noise production to the water that trickles into the water side of the box. Apparently it’s a known issue and the only alleviation is inserting a filter floss or mesh of sorts. Problem with that is it acts as a filter and as it gets dirty, water level in the tank increases and screws everything up

 

[theMeat]

Didn’t read all the posts, apologies if it’s been mentioned already
That plumbing has to be redone. The main drain needs a separate line with a valve. The emergency should be separate and end above the sump water level so you can hear it if it is taking water. The main and secondary drain should end an inch or two under sump water level so it’s nice and quiet.
While there is more than one way to run plumbing, everyone has their own style… what you got there, although in the pic looks nice and clean, is completely wrong

 

[Short Reefer]

this is amatuer work. i would not consider as professional just by the way he/she used the SCH40 valve.

 

[Nsakis1]

Didn’t read all the posts, apologies if it’s been mentioned already
That plumbing has to be redone. The main drain needs a separate line with a valve. The emergency should be separate and end above the sump water level so you can hear it if it is taking water. The main and secondary drain should end an inch or two under sump water level so it’s nice and quiet.
While there is more than one way to run plumbing, everyone has their own style… what you got there, although in the pic looks nice and clean, is completely wrong

That’s exactly what I did. Thanks for agreeing!

 

[Troylee]

this is amatuer work. i would not consider as professional just by the way he/she used the SCH40 valve.

Why exactly is that? Sch40 is way more than enough for a fish tank lol.. zero pressure on anything it’s just free flow…

 

[Short Reefer]

Why exactly is that? Sch40 is way more than enough for a fish tank lol.. zero pressure on anything it’s just free flow…

Sch40 is perfect for tubing for sure. But the valve overtime will be nearly impossible to turn adjustment.

 

[theMeat]

Easy enough to change the main drain and secondary from the unions down. Put a valve on the main drain, a gate valve is easier to adjust.
Make the main and secondary go an inch or two into water so it’s silent, and make the emergency drain a couple of inches above the water so it makes noise and you know something is up.

Post up some pics

 

[BillB83]

It’s not. I was able to isolate the noise production to the water that trickles into the water side of the box. Apparently it’s a known issue and the only alleviation is inserting a filter floss or mesh of sorts. Problem with that is it acts as a filter and as it gets dirty, water level in the tank increases and screws everything up

if you raise the water level in the external box to be ABOVE the bulk head holes the noise will almost be 100% silent i have 3 of these boxes on different setups and they are all almost 100% silent with the water raised above the bulkhead