Plumbing Ideas or guides?
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Okay, so assuming the W/D is part of a sump system, this will likely plumb like most systems (speaking generically of course). First, you should decide on your overflow type, herbie, durso, etc. This will, of course, also depend on how the tank is drilled; but I am guessing you have two holes in the tank.
Below are two diagrams I found randomly, I do not know who drew them, so I cannot give credit. As you can see, the addition of a W/D is moot in these diagrams when it comes to the basic plumbing. Also, given you are asking this question, your best option is to not get too fancy for the initial installation.
I am surprised there is not a good sticky on this forum for you to read (there could be, but I have never seen it).
Since you have a pre-drilled tank; you need to decide how you want your water to flow from the DT to the Sump. My first pre-drill cornerflow, I kept it stock and just used the single durso standpipe which was provided by the manufacturer. We generally recommend against a single overflow line - if it gets plugged, the only place for the water to go is over the top of the DT. Instead, you are encouraged to use both drilled holes as overflow pipes, and run the return line over the top of the tank (either side or back, whatever you can conceal easily).
Next, pick a return pump. Size it according to the amount of flow you want through the sump. Make sure you take headroom into account when doing this calculation. For an easy example, I will use Mag pumps. With your sump in a cabinet below the 110, and assuming the rim of the tank is 6' off the floor, a Mag 9.5 would get you a flow rate of about 650, which I believe is lots. But read up and make that decision on your own.
Pipe size is important for the return line. Size this according to the manufactures best practices. With the Mag 9.5 mentioned above, you would get best performance with 1.5" piping. Smaller or larger and you will get less flow (that is the theory anyway).
Pipe size is less important with your pre-drilled tank, because you are bound by the hole size. Even at a full siphon, a 1" bulkhead on 1.5" pipe will limit you to the flow rate of the 1" hole. I am not sure the policy on posting external links here, but if you simply google "Hydraulics for the Aquarist" you can find a decent calculator. However, it is still important, so do the math and decide for yourself.
Now that you have all your parts picked out, you can plan the design. Keep in mind 90 degree elbows slow the flow of water down, try to use 45s if you can. Flex tubing is also and option, it is more expensive, but easier to install. If you go the flex tube route, try to get black tube; the clear tube is more prone to algae. If you go solid piping, PVC for example, put in unions and union valves wherever you can.
You should aim to have a valve on (at least) one of your overflow lines to control the flow if you need to. I also prefer to have valves everywhere; it is better to have them and not need them, than it is to need them and not have them. (But it does drive the cost up).
Below are two diagrams I found randomly, I do not know who drew them, so I cannot give credit. As you can see, the addition of a W/D is moot in these diagrams when it comes to the basic plumbing. Also, given you are asking this question, your best option is to not get too fancy for the initial installation.
I am surprised there is not a good sticky on this forum for you to read (there could be, but I have never seen it).
Since you have a pre-drilled tank; you need to decide how you want your water to flow from the DT to the Sump. My first pre-drill cornerflow, I kept it stock and just used the single durso standpipe which was provided by the manufacturer. We generally recommend against a single overflow line - if it gets plugged, the only place for the water to go is over the top of the DT. Instead, you are encouraged to use both drilled holes as overflow pipes, and run the return line over the top of the tank (either side or back, whatever you can conceal easily).
Next, pick a return pump. Size it according to the amount of flow you want through the sump. Make sure you take headroom into account when doing this calculation. For an easy example, I will use Mag pumps. With your sump in a cabinet below the 110, and assuming the rim of the tank is 6' off the floor, a Mag 9.5 would get you a flow rate of about 650, which I believe is lots. But read up and make that decision on your own.
Pipe size is important for the return line. Size this according to the manufactures best practices. With the Mag 9.5 mentioned above, you would get best performance with 1.5" piping. Smaller or larger and you will get less flow (that is the theory anyway).
Pipe size is less important with your pre-drilled tank, because you are bound by the hole size. Even at a full siphon, a 1" bulkhead on 1.5" pipe will limit you to the flow rate of the 1" hole. I am not sure the policy on posting external links here, but if you simply google "Hydraulics for the Aquarist" you can find a decent calculator. However, it is still important, so do the math and decide for yourself.
Now that you have all your parts picked out, you can plan the design. Keep in mind 90 degree elbows slow the flow of water down, try to use 45s if you can. Flex tubing is also and option, it is more expensive, but easier to install. If you go the flex tube route, try to get black tube; the clear tube is more prone to algae. If you go solid piping, PVC for example, put in unions and union valves wherever you can.
You should aim to have a valve on (at least) one of your overflow lines to control the flow if you need to. I also prefer to have valves everywhere; it is better to have them and not need them, than it is to need them and not have them. (But it does drive the cost up).
