Plumbing overflow..

[MagisterDamask]

I like it a lot. I was a little nervous at first about drilling my tank but after I did some research on it I said the heck with it and just went for it. I am glad I went this route with it instead of the HOB overflow

Drilling the glass is absolutely the most nerve racking thing I've ever done, but I'm comfortable with it now and I do it every time with out hesitation.

My setup is exactly like beananimals original drawings. It has a coast to coast overflow inside the tank and the three pipes come through glass and to a sanitary TEE above the TEE is a threaded adapter and cap, below it are my BALL valves[emoji20].

I put air lines on my full siphon and open channel pipes. I also added ball valves to both air lines for complete control and adjustability.

 

[Reef_Tank_Fan_SC]

Drilling the glass is absolutely the most nerve racking thing I've ever done, but I'm comfortable with it now and I do it every time with out hesitation.

My setup is exactly like beananimals original drawings. It has a coast to coast overflow inside the tank and the three pipes come through glass and to a sanitary TEE above the TEE is a threaded adapter and cap, below it are my BALL valves[emoji20].

I put air lines on my full siphon and open channel pipes. I also added ball valves to both air lines for complete control and adjustability.

Very nice my man.. sounds like a very solid setup. I didn't feel like I could pull off a coast to coast because I have a corner tank

 

[MagisterDamask]

Very nice my man.. sounds like a very solid setup. I didn't feel like I could pull off a coast to coast because I have a corner tank

Your set up will work just as well, you just won't have to massive surface skimming ability, but it will surface skim well and maintain clean surface water in your corner tank. It will work great I think, make small adjustments at a time and give it some time to burp and and the water level to stabilize in the overflow before you adjust again.

I only did it because:

1. I want to build my tank from the ground up, all DIY

2. The massive surface skimming

3. I wanted to use 1-1/2" PVC return lines

4. They didn't have those awesome ghost overflows like y'all have available now.

5. And I wanted the ability to make it dead silent if needed.

 

[Reef_Tank_Fan_SC]

Your set up will work just as well, you just won't have to massive surface skimming ability, but it will surface skim well and maintain clean surface water in your corner tank. It will work great I think, make small adjustments at a time and give it some time to burp and and the water level to stabilize in the overflow before you adjust again.

I only did it because:

1. I want to build my tank from the ground up, all DIY

2. The massive surface skimming

3. I wanted to use 1-1/2" PVC return lines

4. They didn't have those awesome ghost overflows like y'all have available now.

5. And I wanted the ability to make it dead silent if needed.

So jelly that you built your own tank. I wanted to do that but the wife was not having any of that. LOL, it was "buy a tank first and learn how to make a reef tank first..". In hindsight though it was solid advice because I keep changing stuff around as it is. I have already completely overhauled the tank. I modified the stand because it was a flimsy pile of crap. Now I'm working on painting the back of the tank and dry plumbing. Then I am gonna start building my sump tank. That's gonna be fun because I only got minimum amount of space to work with and fit it under my stand.

 

[Reef_Tank_Fan_SC]

https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/302169/

MagisterDamask here is the link for my tank that I am building if you ever wanna pop over and give any pointers, advice, or just tell me I'm screwing up. Hahaha

 

[Engloid]

Crap, it didn't go through. So try guys... had a dumd@$$ moment there.

Maybe that will help a little bit, hahahah

Don't glue any of those fittings. You will find that you want the open channel to be up higher for the best performance. You want the bottom of the open channel to be higher than the top of the siphon line. What this does is makes sure that the siphon line elbows are completely full BEFORE anything starts running through the open channel.

As for the ball or gate valves... once you get them set, you won't move them anyway. It's all about how patient you are in adjusting it the first time. In other words, you can adjust a gate valve in more finite increments, but a ball valve tends to jump when you exert enough force to make it move, instead of a slow movement. I use a ball valve just because it saves money.

 

[MagisterDamask]

Here is my two cents on your thread and then I'm done.

I see nothing wrong with what you're doing, I think you're off to a great start.

Dry rock is a great start, some folks have trouble with it if they've never owned a reef tank before, but I saw you were cycling it, great start! It's important to let it build that bio film, it will help resist algae.

HOB filters are a joke for a reef tank, a sump with a beananimal overflow and a pump to turn over 3-5 (debatable topic) times your water volume per hour is the way to go!

Get yourself some used 10 gallon tanks if you have room for them in the garage or basement (I found mine at the thrift store) and use one for quarantining fish and one for quarantining corals. They need to be filtered separately from each other in case of the need to dose ich treatments (copper), or bacterial infection treatments. The fish quarantine can have a sponge filter and air stone as long as you do consistent water changes during the quarantine period. When you're not quarantining, just store the tanks on a shelf or something.

Buy a good RO/DI system, Bulk Reef Supply has great ones and good deals.

Get some Rubbermaid brute trash cans (if you have room) to store freshwater and mix saltwater, the saltwater needs a heater and cheap power head to help you mix the saltwater.

Dip your corals

If you do find bristle worms in the display tank, don't kill them, get some tweezers and throw them in the sump they do support the cleaning crew.

Unions, unions, unions

Lights are fiercely debated so I won't go into specifics but buy good lights, ATI, AI, radieons, etc. LEDs, and T5s are my poison of choice.

Use good reliable test kits, Hanna checker for alkalinity (it's quick and painless)

Buy a good skimmer

Buy good power heads (tunze, or ecotech)

Auto Top Off is a life saver

An aquarium controller is a great asset but not entirely necessary if you've made good choices with your other equipment. A controller will help you sleep better.

Cobalt neo-therms, eheim jagers, and finnex are good heater choices.

And a reef safe check valve for your pump return line will add some piece of mind.

I'm done, I think

 

[Reef_Tank_Fan_SC]

Here is my two cents on your thread and then I'm done.

I see nothing wrong with what you're doing, I think you're off to a great start.

Dry rock is a great start, some folks have trouble with it if they've never owned a reef tank before, but I saw you were cycling it, great start! It's important to let it build that bio film, it will help resist algae.

HOB filters are a joke for a reef tank, a sump with a beananimal overflow and a pump to turn over 3-5 (debatable topic) times your water volume per hour is the way to go!

Get yourself some used 10 gallon tanks if you have room for them in the garage or basement (I found mine at the thrift store) and use one for quarantining fish and one for quarantining corals. They need to be filtered separately from each other in case of the need to dose ich treatments (copper), or bacterial infection treatments. The fish quarantine can have a sponge filter and air stone as long as you do consistent water changes during the quarantine period. When you're not quarantining, just store the tanks on a shelf or something.

Buy a good RO/DI system, Bulk Reef Supply has great ones and good deals.

Get some Rubbermaid brute trash cans (if you have room) to store freshwater and mix saltwater, the saltwater needs a heater and cheap power head to help you mix the saltwater.

Dip your corals

If you do find bristle worms in the display tank, don't kill them, get some tweezers and throw them in the sump they do support the cleaning crew.

Unions, unions, unions

Lights are fiercely debated so I won't go into specifics but buy good lights, ATI, AI, radieons, etc. LEDs, and T5s are my poison of choice.

Use good reliable test kits, Hanna checker for alkalinity (it's quick and painless)

Buy a good skimmer

Buy good power heads (tunze, or ecotech)

Auto Top Off is a life saver

An aquarium controller is a great asset but not entirely necessary if you've made good choices with your other equipment. A controller will help you sleep better.

Cobalt neo-therms, eheim jagers, and finnex are good heater choices.

And a reef safe check valve for your pump return line will add some piece of mind.

I'm done, I think

You can drop all the cents you want to on my thread man, I take all the help I can get. That's for sure... I have been trying to buy all new stuff for this reef tank since it is my first one. I didn't want to buy a lot if second hand stuff and it start breaking and me not know what to do to fix it. Most of the stuff I have gotten so far is what you have listed. I have a Reef Octo classic 110 protein skimmer, I have two Tunze 6025 powerheads (725 gph each), the Eshopps eclipse overflow box (large, so I could use bean animal) rated for 100+ gallon tanks. Also went with a return pump that is rated at over 800 gph also. I read somewhere that a good rule if thumb is to be able to move 10× you tanks water capacity per hour. Since I have a 54 gal tank I have been making sure that everything I buy exceeds that 540 gph mark.

I also have got plenty of unions that I will use during the plumbing process. For convenience and in case of and emergency.

I do still need to buy myself a master test kit so that I have that. Right now I just have one that I been using to keep a check on ammonia lvl while curing rocks. Heaters I'm still up in the air on. Right now I have a 300 watt aqueon that's in with the rocks also but I will probably go with titanium ones for the actual tank itself. (In the sump of course..)

And then their are controllers and lights. Lights I won't skimp I because I want the best quality lights for 1. The maturation of my tank and 2. I want the best look possible (lol). With the controller is where I get lost because I dont know much about them and I don't have a grand to throw at an Apex that I don't even k ow how to operate. So that will probably come farther down the road for me.

 

[MagisterDamask]

Yeah, the 10x water volume you mentioned is why I said it's debatable[emoji23]

As far as controllers go, if you're not wanting to drop a lot of money, Reefkeepers from digital aquatics are good. I use the reefkeeper elite, it's older technology but it has performed flawlessly for me over the last three years or so. Mine is set up to monitor pH, Salinity, and Temp. There are infinite ways to set it up to shut things off in abnormal conditions and monitor parameters. It'll keep the heater contacts from destroying your tank when the thermostat fails and leaves the contacts in the closed position.



The apex does have the advantage with the apps for the phones though, and lab grade probes.

Watch some bulk reef supply's videos on YouTube about controllers. It'll give you a general idea of your wants vs. needs vs. cost.

If you're going titanium with the heater I would try Finnex

Red Sea Pro test kits are good for your reef foundation parameters like Calcium, Alkalinity, and magnesium.

Salifert is a solid choice for testing too, they're probably one of the oldest test kit companies for the hobby.

I found that ATI bulbs retro fitted with 2 Hydra 26 LED modules works very well over my 4 ft tank. But there are great options out there. LEDs have great controllability, and adjustment.

I think you're off to a great start, watch bulk reef supplies videos on lighting too, lots of good info on par readings, and hybrid options

Good luck, and take in as much info as you can, I learn something new about this hobby almost everyday, it's a great hobby.

I think your attention to detail and your quest for information will yield a fine reef tank.

 

[MagisterDamask]

Oh and use a refractometer instead of an hydrometer if you're not already. To measure your salt, it's more accurate and can be calibrated if needed.

 

[ReeferBob]

Never glue the pipes inside the overflow box it isn't necessary.
You only need a valve on the full-siphon drain.
Don't forget to use unions to be able to take apart the plumbing. You can use PVC compression fittings instead/as-well for more options and to be able to turn the plumbing when needed.
Your open channel should not flow anything until your full-siphon is running at full siphon and creeps up into the open channel.

 

[Reef_Tank_Fan_SC]

Don't glue any of those fittings. You will find that you want the open channel to be up higher for the best performance. You want the bottom of the open channel to be higher than the top of the siphon line. What this does is makes sure that the siphon line elbows are completely full BEFORE anything starts running through the open channel.

As for the ball or gate valves... once you get them set, you won't move them anyway. It's all about how patient you are in adjusting it the first time. In other words, you can adjust a gate valve in more finite increments, but a ball valve tends to jump when you exert enough force to make it move, instead of a slow movement. I use a ball valve just because it saves money.

So the bottom (entrance hole) of the 90° on my second overflow needs to be even with the top of the full siphon drain? I have looked at a bunch at that just looks really high up to me. I do understand what you saying but does it really need to be that high or just moved up a shounch?

 

[Engloid]

So the bottom (entrance hole) of the 90° on my second overflow needs to be even with the top of the full siphon drain? I have looked at a bunch at that just looks really high up to me. I do understand what you saying but does it really need to be that high or just moved up a shounch?

I have the Synergy Shadow box. It comes with two 180 degree fittings. Both have holes drilled in the top. What I found is that you want the water level to be at the top of the siphon elbow, which fills it completely and removes all air in it. You can't do that if the open channel is too low and flowing by the time the siphon line is half full.

As for it looking high...don't worry a lot about it as long as your emergency pipe is below the top of the box. Once you get the piping set where you think it will work...TEST, TEST, TEST. You need to test it while you're there...not test it when a power outage happens and you aren't home.

and again...don't glue anything in the box. If it were to leak, it doesn't matter anyway, but leaving it unglued allows you to make changes to the height if needed, as well as get it apart for cleaning.

 

[Daimyo68]

I have the same overflow on a 40g breeder. I did not glue the pipes in the overflow, as mentioned earlier by someone else in this thread.

I also only use 1 elbow, its on my secondary pipe just like yours.

For the siphon pipe, I installed a flat strainer. Reason being was also mentioned in this thread, there not much room for cleaning in this overflow. Removing the siphon elbow and installing the strainer made it much easier to clean.

 

[MagisterDamask]

I have the same overflow on a 40g breeder. I did not glue the pipes in the overflow, as mentioned earlier by someone else in this thread.

I also only use 1 elbow, its on my secondary pipe just like yours.

For the siphon pipe, I installed a flat strainer. Reason being was also mentioned in this thread, there not much room for cleaning in this overflow. Removing the siphon elbow and installing the strainer made it much easier to clean.

Indeed, I'm glad you guys chimed in, I didn't think it looked like enough room to clean in the box and I assumed if you glued it, it would really screw up your maintenance in the box. I wasn't 100% sure though.

I don't have a an over flow like this, mine is custom built coast to coast like beananimals original drawing. So, I was hoping someone would breeze through and enlighten us about the gluing and cleaning.

Although I do disagree with only having a valve on the siphon pipe, I'm not sure who mentioned it. However, as I said before, my beananimal set up is different.

 

[Reef_Tank_Fan_SC]

I have the same overflow on a 40g breeder. I did not glue the pipes in the overflow, as mentioned earlier by someone else in this thread.

I also only use 1 elbow, its on my secondary pipe just like yours.

For the siphon pipe, I installed a flat strainer. Reason being was also mentioned in this thread, there not much room for cleaning in this overflow. Removing the siphon elbow and installing the strainer made it much easier to clean.

Is their any chance you could pop up a picture of your box so I can see what you talking about exactly? I've got a pretty good idea but I don't want to assume and end up with a mess. Either way thanks a ton for the reply. I have noticed that their isn't a ton of room inside the box to play with. Yesterday as a matter of fact I noticed that with my drains in the box turned at a 90° inward the the drains actually hit the bulkheads. So I had to turn them outward just a tick to make everything fit. I was trying to come up with a solution and your idea of using only 1 90° fitting may be the answer.

 

[Engloid]

Elbows hit bulkheads? They'll both should be inside the box and the bulkheads should be outside of it

 

[Reef_Tank_Fan_SC]

Elbows hit bulkheads? They'll both should be inside the box and the bulkheads should be outside of it

They hit the bulkheads inside the box. The ones that come through the tank and connect the two boxes

 

[ReeferBob]

Indeed, I'm glad you guys chimed in, I didn't think it looked like enough room to clean in the box and I assumed if you glued it, it would really screw up your maintenance in the box. I wasn't 100% sure though.

I don't have a an over flow like this, mine is custom built coast to coast like beananimals original drawing. So, I was hoping someone would breeze through and enlighten us about the gluing and cleaning.

Although I do disagree with only having a valve on the siphon pipe, I'm not sure who mentioned it. However, as I said before, my beananimal set up is different.

Bean has actually modified his original design to only have 1 valve as well. It is just not needed. You could argue for maintenance sake to have the valve but realistically, it isn't even needed for that. The valve is there to tune the flow of the full siphon drain, nothing more. There is no tuning needed on the open channel or dry emergency.

None of the plumbing in the box needs to be glued not even the pieces themselves to each other. You also don't need any plumbing on the full siphon at all. You could just leave this open as a hole. The only issue with this is if your hole is close enough to the surface to create a vortex and suck air into the siphon. Test and see. Someone mentioned just using a screen which is a good idea. This way you aren't worrying about having the open channel too low. But to reiterate, your open channel should not flow anything at all unless your full siphon is at full siphon plus a little more.

 

[Reef_Tank_Fan_SC]

Bean has actually modified his original design to only have 1 valve as well. It is just not needed. You could argue for maintenance sake to have the valve but realistically, it isn't even needed for that. The valve is there to tune the flow of the full siphon drain, nothing more. There is no tuning needed on the open channel or dry emergency.

None of the plumbing in the box needs to be glued not even the pieces themselves to each other. You also don't need any plumbing on the full siphon at all. You could just leave this open as a hole. The only issue with this is if your hole is close enough to the surface to create a vortex and suck air into the siphon. Test and see. Someone mentioned just using a screen which is a good idea. This way you aren't worrying about having the open channel too low. But to reiterate, your open channel should not flow anything at all unless your full siphon is at full siphon plus a little more.

I was planning on just using the one gate valve on my full siphon drain. Also if to take the 90° off of my full siphon line do I still need it to be so close to the bottom? Or is that one of those things I will have to feel out and adjust through the testing process