Plumbing Question

[iannarelli]

I will premise this question with stating that my sump is large enough to handle the volume of water that backflows into it when the power to my return pump is cut.

I know check valves are somewhat of a pain to maintain and perhaps a four-letter word on these forums, but if I'm not relying on it as a means of preventing a catastrophe, and just as a way to keep the water level in the DT a little higher when I need to do maintenance on the pump or for whatever other reasons I might need to turn it off, is there any dowside to adding one? I have a run of flexible hose between the return pump and UV where I could easily add one. I understand it will reduce my flow, but my return is only running at 40%, so I can increase that if needed. I also understand that it would require extra maintenance, but I figure if I install it with a union on each end, I can just get two check valve and 4 unions, and swap them when one needs to be cleaned.

 

[Glenner’sreef]

I will premise this question with stating that my sump is large enough to handle the volume of water that backflows into it when the power to my return pump is cut.

I know check valves are somewhat of a pain to maintain and perhaps a four-letter word on these forums, but if I'm not relying on it as a means of preventing a catastrophe, and just as a way to keep the water level in the DT a little higher when I need to do maintenance on the pump or for whatever other reasons I might need to turn it off, is there any dowside to adding one? I have a run of flexible hose between the return pump and UV where I could easily add one. I understand it will reduce my flow, but my return is only running at 40%, so I can increase that if needed. I also understand that it would require extra maintenance, but I figure if I install it with a union on each end, I can just get two check valve and 4 unions, and swap them when one needs to be cleaned.

So the water level in the display tank is determined by the teeth in the overflow. (Weir) If the water level is 1/2” from the top, it will always be 1/2” from the top.

 

[iannarelli]

So the water level in the display tank is determined by the teeth in the overflow. (Weir) If the water level is 1/2” from the top, it will always be 1/2” from the top.

But that's only when the pump is running, right? I'm talking about when the return pump is turned off and the water siphons back through the return lines until the siphon is broken. I can play around with the position of my loc-lines but I'd prefer, for instance, if I turn off my return pump to clean it or something, to keep a majority of the water in the DT instead of letting it all run back into the sump.

 

[Glenner’sreef]

But that's only when the pump is running, right? I'm talking about when the return pump is turned off and the water siphons back through the return lines until the siphon is broken. I can play around with the position of my loc-lines but I'd prefer, for instance, if I turn off my return pump to clean it or something, to keep a majority of the water in the DT instead of letting it all run back into the sump.

Lift the lock lines to the level of the water. If there pushed 1” or 2” under water you’re going to empty a lot of water into your sump.

 

[mfinn]

I will premise this question with stating that my sump is large enough to handle the volume of water that backflows into it when the power to my return pump is cut.

I know check valves are somewhat of a pain to maintain and perhaps a four-letter word on these forums, but if I'm not relying on it as a means of preventing a catastrophe, and just as a way to keep the water level in the DT a little higher when I need to do maintenance on the pump or for whatever other reasons I might need to turn it off, is there any dowside to adding one? I have a run of flexible hose between the return pump and UV where I could easily add one. I understand it will reduce my flow, but my return is only running at 40%, so I can increase that if needed. I also understand that it would require extra maintenance, but I figure if I install it with a union on each end, I can just get two check valve and 4 unions, and swap them when one needs to be cleaned.

Instead of a check valve which will probably fail ( even as I write this I know I have a wye check valve on both of my tank return lines, and both have failed, but once cleaned returned to full service) why not a ball valve? Turn the pump off and shut the ball valve. Water stays at the desired level.

 

[iannarelli]

Instead of a check valve which will probably fail ( even as I write this I know I have a wye check valve on both of my tank return lines, and both have failed, but once cleaned returned to full service) why not a ball valve? Turn the pump off and shut the ball valve. Water stays at the desired level.

Yeah... that makes more sense. I suppose if the ball valve ever needed cleaning, I'd just need to let the tank siphon out and then take it off, but I imagine that wouldn't be nearly as frequent as I'd want to service the pump.