Plumbing question

Justin Opheim

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Forgive me if this has been asked.

When running your plumbing is it best to reduce right away, or run it as the bigger tubing before reducing?

Example, my Synergy Over flow uses 1.5" tubing. Do I run it as 1.5 until the sump then reduce to 1". Or do I reduce right away to 1" or does it even matter?
 
Either technically, but if it we're me, I would do one of 2 things.
A) Run the drain 1 1/2" if possible
B) Reduce right away.

Reasoning is more control as necessary at the source. Chainging plumbing diameters mid line can create back pressure that can cause an issue down the line that might be problematic to correct
 
Either technically, but if it we're me, I would do one of 2 things.
A) Run the drain 1 1/2" if possible
B) Reduce right away.

Reasoning is more control as necessary at the source. Chainging plumbing diameters mid line can create back pressure that can cause an issue down the line that might be problematic to correct

I intend to run it as 1.5 all the way and then have the reducer bushing attached to the sump. I have the eshopps RS-200. so I would have to replace the bulkheads and when the hole is I wanted 1.5.
 
If I am understanding you correctly, the inlet to your sump doesn't fit a 1 1/2" bulkhead?
Few options, reduce it at the sump, reduce it at the overflow... Or... Do what I did on my Icecap sump.. drill a hoke that fits a 1 1/2" bulkhead. Or... if hard plumbing, will the 1 1/2" pipe fit into the exisisting hole without a bulkhead?
 
I'm sure it would fit a 1.5 tube without the bulkhead. I guess I never considered removing the bulkhead. I may just use my dremel and widen the holes, but i'm such a putz I always worry i'll wreck something. lol
 
Honestly, there isn't a whole lot of reason for a bulkhead at the sump if the drain pipe opens below the water line.
Having a bulkhead IS nice for rigidity of the line, but definitely not manditory.
Busting out the Dremel isn't a bad idea at all. Acrylic is pretty easy to work with. Just go slow and test fit often.
If using the Dremel, mark an outline of the hole to be inlarged and work to the line.
Also, more importantly, make sure the flange side (large side) fits where you want it to be.
No point in making a bigger home only to find out the bulkhead won't fit...
 
Honestly, there isn't a whole lot of reason for a bulkhead at the sump if the drain pipe opens below the water line.
Having a bulkhead IS nice for rigidity of the line, but definitely not manditory.
Busting out the Dremel isn't a bad idea at all. Acrylic is pretty easy to work with. Just go slow and test fit often.
If using the Dremel, mark an outline of the hole to be inlarged and work to the line.
Also, more importantly, make sure the flange side (large side) fits where you want it to be.
No point in making a bigger home only to find out the bulkhead won't fit...

Thank you for the help and advice. I appreciate it.
 
Honestly, there isn't a whole lot of reason for a bulkhead at the sump if the drain pipe opens below the water line.
Having a bulkhead IS nice for rigidity of the line, but definitely not manditory.
Busting out the Dremel isn't a bad idea at all. Acrylic is pretty easy to work with. Just go slow and test fit often.
If using the Dremel, mark an outline of the hole to be inlarged and work to the line.
Also, more importantly, make sure the flange side (large side) fits where you want it to be.
No point in making a bigger home only to find out the bulkhead won't fit...

I'd have to agree @ndrwater there are lots of options and I wouldn't reduce myself, especially when theres no real reason for it. The 1.5" pipe will slip right into your 1" bulkhead holes with no issues :)

If you do wish to use the dremel use the round sanding drum attachment. Incredibly difficult to mess up as it takes a while for it to chew through the acrylic. Making it really easy to stop yourself from messing up.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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