plumbing question

thisoldfish

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hey all,

I re-plumbed my return to sump 2 floors below my display tank. I ended up replacing a 1.5" pvc t fitting and all the pipe/fitting distal to that. The t fitting is in an awkward spot plus I have a continual slow drip when it's apart (even with entire system shut down.. there's just a bunch of residual water draining in pipes I guess from being 2 floor under the tank). Point being that it's hard to get it totally dry before glueing new fitting. So I did my best, gooped up the fittings w pvc cement and jammed it on. Unfortunately I can't spin the fitting to ensure uniform cement smearing- I just had to push it on given the location.

Everything distal to that I can assemble elsewhere and it's glued well- but of course this spot w the t fitting was suboptimally placed and has a super slow leak. I've never seen it actively drip but there's always a sagging drip with salt on the floor below. So it's slow, but there.

I can re-do this but it'll be a job. I'll have to go even more proximal, install a shutoff (so I can get rid of that draining drip when system shut down) and re-do everything distal to it. A job, and more $ with 3 ballvalves distal to that T..

My question: if this is a super slow drip do these tend to get worse over time? I stressed the fitting with my hands and it doesn't pull apart at all.

Is there any utility to getting that fiberglass cloth at home depot and wrapping the joint super tight and just containing it? It's a drainage pipe so not under back pressure. I'm not sure the fiberglass cloth would adhere to the pvc though..

Ideas? Or do I just bite the bullet and re-do everything?

thanks
 
I would recommend you redo it to ease your concerns. If you’re too lazy then try the JBJ water weld epoxy that you can get at walmart or HD. They work really well
 
Yeah I’ll prob just redo, but I’ll keep the water weld in mind in case lethargy takes over! Thanks.
 

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