Plumbing questions

[Susan Edwards]

Getting ready to order plumbing. Might see how much we have on hand to do test runs before order. Hubby will be my plumber for sure! But I'd like to look like I know what I'm doing....

Notes on diagram:
Sump will go closer to left side (don't want to redo all bits)
Drain and return lines in overflow need to be reversed (don't want to redo)

1-- Should I split 1 drain to the sock & to refugium or leave it all to drain to the skimmer section
If yes, use a gate valve to control flow to fuge? See purple T into fuge
2-- Enough unions? Do I need them all?

Am I forgetting anything? Plan to use true union balls. Do I need to set up a manifold with 3 or just maybe 2 and add more later if needed?

Manifold is in the middle of the split return to tank. Does it need to be separate--a separate T from return pump

Right now, only planning on using 1 ball valve to do water changes.

 

[Waters]

Getting ready to order plumbing. Might see how much we have on hand to do test runs before order. Hubby will be my plumber for sure! But I'd like to look like I know what I'm doing....

Notes on diagram:
Sump will go closer to left side (don't want to redo all bits)
Drain and return lines in overflow need to be reversed (don't want to redo)

1-- Should I split 1 drain to the sock & to refugium or leave it all to drain to the skimmer section
If yes, use a gate valve to control flow to fuge? See purple T into fuge
2-- Enough unions? Do I need them all?

Am I forgetting anything? Plan to use true union balls. Do I need to set up a manifold with 3 or just maybe 2 and add more later if needed?

Manifold is in the middle of the split return to tank. Does it need to be separate--a separate T from return pump

Right now, only planning on using 1 ball valve to do water changes.

I would leave them both returning to the socks, in the first section, like you have it. The manifold is fine where it is.....it doesn't have to be on a separate T. You can never have enough Unions If you think you have enough, then double it lol. If you ever need to take apart the plumbing for any reason, you will be glad you had them. I personally would probably add Unions on both sides of the manifold. Down the road, you can remove that section if needed to add to it, modifiy it, etc.

 

[Susan Edwards]

thanks @Waters Here is the alternate plan I did, also fixed the lines. Which would be better--original manifold or revised one (new manifold in pink) --oh, forgot to add second tee to do this...

 

[Waters]

thanks @Waters Here is the alternate plan I did, also fixed the lines. Which would be better--original manifold or revised one (new manifold in pink) --oh, forgot to add second tee to do this...

I like the original, inline manifold but it probably doesn't matter either way...water is going to get to those three ball valves regardless of where it sits. As long as it sits on the return line somewhere, the location doesn't matter much. Are you running reactors off of the manifold?

 

[Susan Edwards]

thanks @Waters I don't have any reactors yet but want to plan them in now. I don't figure on needing more than 2 and if I do do a separate line, then I can always add to it. My thought was the dual return lines would return approx the same amt of water to the tank if the manifold was separate as that water would come before the "Y" split and be controlled by the ball valves. Feeling much more confident now.

 

[Waters]

thanks @Waters I don't have any reactors yet but want to plan them in now. I don't figure on needing more than 2 and if I do do a separate line, then I can always add to it. My thought was the dual return lines would return approx the same amt of water to the tank if the manifold was separate as that water would come before the "Y" split and be controlled by the ball valves. Feeling much more confident now.

That is true.....using two unions (using your first design) will accomplish the same thing, allowing you to upgrade. Your second design though allows you to shut water off to the manifold (assuming you throw a valve in at the beginning of the manifold) while keeping your return pump running. I think I will change my mind to say the second design makes more sense Also, I originally designed mine with three reactors in mind but have never used more than two if that helps any.

 

[Susan Edwards]

thanks @Waters I was wondering if I needed a gate valve before the true union balls. Wouldn't the 3 ball valves, kept shut, keep water off to the manifold or would redundacy be better in putting in a gate valve before the 3 balls. ?

 

[Waters]

thanks @Waters I was wondering if I needed a gate valve before the true union balls. Wouldn't the 3 ball valves, kept shut, keep water off to the manifold or would redundacy be better in putting in a gate valve before the 3 balls. ?

I would use the gate valve (or ball valve) to be able to shut water totally off to the manifold, in case you need to remove it to modify it for any reason.

 

[Susan Edwards]

good idea

 

[don_chuwish]

When the return pump is off, all the water drains out of the return lines anyway. The manifold will be empty.

 

[Susan Edwards]

Another question: I'm planning to use colored pvc pipe in either black or blue and found furniture grade fittings in same colors. Can these fittings be used for plumbing tanks? BRS sells only the colored pipe, not colored fittings. Before I order, I figured I'd better be sure I can use the colored fittings

 

[Susan Edwards]

Oh, hopefully only one more: Can I mix a sch 80 union with sch 40 pipes to avoid the white 40 sch unions

 

[Waters]

Oh, hopefully only one more: Can I mix a sch 80 union with sch 40 pipes to avoid the white 40 sch unions

Absolutely

 

[Waters]

When the return pump is off, all the water drains out of the return lines anyway. The manifold will be empty.

Correct, but the valve lets you modify the manifold without turning the return pump off.

 

[Waters]

Another question: I'm planning to use colored pvc pipe in either black or blue and found furniture grade fittings in same colors. Can these fittings be used for plumbing tanks? BRS sells only the colored pipe, not colored fittings. Before I order, I figured I'd better be sure I can use the colored fittings

I have been looking at the same fittings......I have never used them but I don't see any reason why they couldn't be used. Also, you can find the colored PVC much cheaper than BRS......HomeDepot online sells them as well.

 

[Susan Edwards]

thanks @Waters So does amazon! Some of them are same price as home depot but some are cheaper. Black pipe is way cheaper than the blue I wanted so am going to use black pipe and blue fittings. So I'll probably order from amazon unless way cheaper for home depot but I think it's a wash. except the pipe. Black 3/4 inch was just under 5 bucks, 1" 9 something. Blue around 12 a stick.

 

[Waters]

Awesome Can't wait to see what you and your husband put together!

 

[Susan Edwards]

Me too!

 

[HairyGary]

One other comment - maybe 2 ball valve on the overflow lines right before the unions so you can keep the water in the tank and then disconnect the piping should you need to? Or maybe I am reading the diagram wrong?

 

[Susan Edwards]

One other comment - maybe 2 ball valve on the overflow lines right before the unions so you can keep the water in the tank and then disconnect the piping should you need to? Or maybe I am reading the diagram wrong?

I was thinking of that but others said not needed--had originally. If I disconnect at the unions, only a bit of water will need to be "caught" in a bucket as the water won't flow in past a certain point--dursa stands. Once water falls below that, there won't be any more. When we get it started, I'll see if we want the extra bit of safety there. With unions below, wouldn't need true union balls, unless you can disconnect a true union ball and still have the "ball" part in tact?