Plumbing sketch, input requested

[t5Nitro]

Here's a tentative plumbing plan that I have. Any idea how many unions should be added? I have some of the blue pvc coming and it only is in 46" sections. Was going for the blue pipe and schedule 80 fittings look. The horizontal distance from furthest tank drain to sump bulkhead is probably close to 5-6ft.

 

[blaxsun]

Depending on access to the back of the tank, you probably want a set of unions near the tank and the sump (blue plumbing) and probably a set of unions for the returning plumbing in the sump. You'll definitely want ones for the UV, reactor and ATS as well.

 

[Sean Clark]

I would spin the entire sump around so your return lines don't block your sump access. The drains can all be tight to the back side of the sump and out of the way. The orange R1 line can be below the drains to keep it tighter to the back of the tank.

 

[t5Nitro]

I can move the return lines to the back and have them travel just outside the sump around the edge, tight to the drains, make the corner and travel back to the tank like that. Added unions at the green zones. Something like this?

 

[Sean Clark]

I like it. I would skip the unions though; you won't need them. If you do actually need to take something apart you can always add them in later.

 

[t5Nitro]

True. I can always take a PVC cutter and take things off if needed in the future (not planning to remove until tank would need to be taken down or moved). The return pumps have bulkheads built into their output line.

I checked out your build therad. I really like the sweep elbow fittings. I might use those to make my 90 corners around the sump.

 

[Sean Clark]

I find the sweep elbows aesthetically pleasing. I didn't use them to create more efficient flow. I just like to have the most direct/clean layout with the fewest fittings possible. I purchased the Long sweep elbows here and the Sweep elbows here.

 

[TangerineSpeedo]

Unions are for two things;
1. Eventualities. You will never know when you need to access or move anything at any time. Yes, it is true you can cut and add later, but are you prepared to keep that line/s dry for 24 hrs while the PVC glue dries? Systems can break, leak, clog, at anytime. 1" Sch80 unions are $5 each at Lowes, So why make it harder on yourself. My system is so tight, in order for me to change my filter roll I have to disassemble my drain line so I can pull my roller out. It would be helpful to look at each line and or piece of equipment and say if I had to get this out what would I have to do.
2. Slight adjustments when glueing angles. When I glue I do a push and 1/4 turn, sometimes it doesn’t work out to the exact degree. This allows you to make adjustments.
Also remember shut off valves in all the key places. You do not have to do a gate valve unless you are controlling the flow of water, a ball valve will do. You can by ball valves that are true unions to kill two birds with one stone.

 

[theMeat]

Nice!
Sweep elbows may help with noise on the secondary. Not that you’ll definitely need them. What room is sump in? Why not put the sump closer to tank?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I can move the return lines to the back and have them travel just outside the sump around the edge, tight to the drains, make the corner and travel back to the tank like that. Added unions at the green zones. Something like this?

You can save a lot of time and plumbing by placing sump below the tank opposed to the far left of tank but thats YOUR call.
As for unions, I keep a ball valve with unions at each return.

 

[t5Nitro]

Original plan was to have the sump directly behind the tank under a stairwell. The sump is 40" L x 24" W. I would have to move electrical boxes higher on the wall to get those out of the way of the sump, and then even with sump close to the wall, I would have about 15 inches of space in front of the sump. So instead I thought maybe turning it 90 and having it a bit more remote from the tank, further under the stairwell, would prevent needing to move outlets and also have open floor space behind the tank immediately into the stairwell area about 5 or 6 ft open length wise.

I've got some Cepex ball valves on order. Will add two more for the returns near the tank.

 

[t5Nitro]

Here's a pic to get an idea of the space originally planned. If I shove it back into the stairwell further, rotated 90, then I'd open that space up to work in with full access to sump at a time, but of course it's more distant.

Just a quick measure -- about a 76" horizontal run from the furthest drain to the first sump bulkhead, add another 3 inches or so for the next sump bulkhead behind that one.

 

[t5Nitro]

Any thoughts on return pumps to go 6 to 8 feet away, vertical distance not too bad just floor to tank maybe 5 ft.

Any of the jebaos, varios, or needing something like red dragon?