Plumbing time

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So I've come to the point in my build where it's time to start plumbing. I'm a novice when it comes to plumbing but with a little help I know I'll figure it out.

Anyhow, I need to plumb three overflows and one return pipe. Just correct me if I'm wrong here. I have a synergy reef shadow overflow and the three openings are 1.5". I'm going to cut three pieces about 5 inches in length and glue them into the overflow and add three 1.5" unions at the end. Now since my sump has openings for 1" pvc, that's what I will be using from the unions down to the sump. From my understanding, you would put a 1.5" x 1" bushing into each of the unions to size it down to the 1" pvc. Once I get down to the sump where the bulkheads have 1" openings, how do I get the 1" pvc to fit with the 1" opening?

Now for the return, how do you run a return pump with hard pvc? Do you have to use soft pvc and run that into the hard pvc? Once I get to the return opening on the back of the fish tank, would you glue it into a bulkhead?

Sorry in advance if this sounds a little confusing. Plumbing isn't my strong suit.
 
So I've come to the point in my build where it's time to start plumbing. I'm a novice when it comes to plumbing but with a little help I know I'll figure it out.

Anyhow, I need to plumb three overflows and one return pipe. Just correct me if I'm wrong here. I have a synergy reef shadow overflow and the three openings are 1.5". I'm going to cut three pieces about 5 inches in length and glue them into the overflow and add three 1.5" unions at the end. Now since my sump has openings for 1" pvc, that's what I will be using from the unions down to the sump. From my understanding, you would put a 1.5" x 1" bushing into each of the unions to size it down to the 1" pvc. Once I get down to the sump where the bulkheads have 1" openings, how do I get the 1" pvc to fit with the 1" opening?

Now for the return, how do you run a return pump with hard pvc? Do you have to use soft pvc and run that into the hard pvc? Once I get to the return opening on the back of the fish tank, would you glue it into a bulkhead?

Sorry in advance if this sounds a little confusing. Plumbing isn't my strong suit.
There are a lot of good ways to do this. Personally, I would add about an 8"-10" section of pipe to each hole on the overflow and then go to a 1 1/2" to 1" reducer. After the reducer I would add a 1" union and then the 1" gate valve on one of the 3 lines. The ghost overflow is very low profile and by reducing first you will find it easier to use the unions. It also saves cost on the unions and gate valves. The extra length is so that if you ever decide to change it you have plenty of pipe to work with to cut the reducer off and add what you may want.

For sumps with bulkheads it is easier to soft pipe it than to hard pipe it. If you do want to hard pipe it the entire way you can use unions to do it but your measurements have to be very precise. To do this you need put the plumbing on both ends with the sump not in place, then slide the sump in and join the unions. Not easy at all.

An easier way is similar, but you can use something like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Homewerks-Worldwide-1-in-dia-PVC-Sch-40-Coupling/50160531

This way you have more room for error between the tank piping and sump piping. It wont matter if you are an inch or so off.

I recommend using soft silicone tubing between your return pump and the hard piping. It helps with noise isolation and makes removing the pump for cleaning much easier.
 
There are a lot of good ways to do this. Personally, I would add about an 8"-10" section of pipe to each hole on the overflow and then go to a 1 1/2" to 1" reducer. After the reducer I would add a 1" union and then the 1" gate valve on one of the 3 lines. The ghost overflow is very low profile and by reducing first you will find it easier to use the unions. It also saves cost on the unions and gate valves. The extra length is so that if you ever decide to change it you have plenty of pipe to work with to cut the reducer off and add what you may want.

For sumps with bulkheads it is easier to soft pipe it than to hard pipe it. If you do want to hard pipe it the entire way you can use unions to do it but your measurements have to be very precise. To do this you need put the plumbing on both ends with the sump not in place, then slide the sump in and join the unions. Not easy at all.

An easier way is similar, but you can use something like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Homewerks-Worldwide-1-in-dia-PVC-Sch-40-Coupling/50160531

This way you have more room for error between the tank piping and sump piping. It wont matter if you are an inch or so off.

I recommend using soft silicone tubing between your return pump and the hard piping. It helps with noise isolation and makes removing the pump for cleaning much easier.
I sketched up what the plumbing should look like to try and better understand how this is going to work. Is this sort of how it should look (it's a really rough sketch, I know)? Also I previously said that the fittings on the sump were bulkheads, but I meant to say they are just regular drain input fittings with 1" openings. So I'm a still a little unclear on how to plumb into those. And for the return, should I just buy a 1" bulkhead and put it into the return opening on the tank? Will I just glue the pipe right into the bulkhead? If I do that, I know I've seen people say abs plastic needs a certain pvc glue in order to glue regular pvc to it. Is that true?

IMG_6960.JPG
 
I sketched up what the plumbing should look like to try and better understand how this is going to work. Is this sort of how it should look (it's a really rough sketch, I know)? Also I previously said that the fittings on the sump were bulkheads, but I meant to say they are just regular drain input fittings with 1" openings. So I'm a still a little unclear on how to plumb into those. And for the return, should I just buy a 1" bulkhead and put it into the return opening on the tank? Will I just glue the pipe right into the bulkhead? If I do that, I know I've seen people say abs plastic needs a certain pvc glue in order to glue regular pvc to it. Is that true?

IMG_6960.JPG
That looks really good.

Without bulkheads on the return the installation is much easier. You can set the sump in place and make the final connection to the sump by sticking the last piece up through the holes when you glue them. You do want the discharge of the return lines to be under water.

Yes, you will need a 1" bulkhead for the return. My preference would be slip for the outside pipe and threaded for the side internal to the tank, but that is up to you. I would also add a check valve in the hard pipe section of the return. Otherwise, you can back siphon the tank into the sump when you turn the pump off. Not a big deal if you have enough volume but you will need to watch how you set your return nozzles in the tank.

Synergy recommends regular PVC glue with no primer. What you have seen is typically true but since this isn't a pressurized system on the return the special glue isn't required and it can make the plastic more brittle and prone to cracking.
 
That looks really good.

Without bulkheads on the return the installation is much easier. You can set the sump in place and make the final connection to the sump by sticking the last piece up through the holes when you glue them. You do want the discharge of the return lines to be under water.

Yes, you will need a 1" bulkhead for the return. My preference would be slip for the outside pipe and threaded for the side internal to the tank, but that is up to you. I would also add a check valve in the hard pipe section of the return. Otherwise, you can back siphon the tank into the sump when you turn the pump off. Not a big deal if you have enough volume but you will need to watch how you set your return nozzles in the tank.

Synergy recommends regular PVC glue with no primer. What you have seen is typically true but since this isn't a pressurized system on the return the special glue isn't required and it can make the plastic more brittle and prone to cracking.
I left a space between the sump overflow pipe fittings in the picture because I'm not sure how those couplings are supposed to fit on them. How are they supposed to work?
 
I sketched up what the plumbing should look like to try and better understand how this is going to work. Is this sort of how it should look (it's a really rough sketch, I know)? Also I previously said that the fittings on the sump were bulkheads, but I meant to say they are just regular drain input fittings with 1" openings. So I'm a still a little unclear on how to plumb into those. And for the return, should I just buy a 1" bulkhead and put it into the return opening on the tank? Will I just glue the pipe right into the bulkhead? If I do that, I know I've seen people say abs plastic needs a certain pvc glue in order to glue regular pvc to it. Is that true?

IMG_6960.JPG

Here's a picture of almost exactly what you drew:
IMG_0637 2.JPG
 
I left a space between the sump overflow pipe fittings in the picture because I'm not sure how those couplings are supposed to fit on them. How are they supposed to work?
I put a short piece of pvc up from the sump connection with a union. Its nice to be able to completely disconnect if cutting/adjusting is needed. USE UNIONS EVERYWHERE ;)
 
Tip of the day: Use threaded unions so you can move them if need be. Those things are pricy!
 
How do you put threaded unions on a non threaded pvc pipe?
They make slip to thread adapters. You glue them to the pipe then thread them into the union.
 
Will this glue work for what I am doing?

IMG_6963.PNG
Yup, just make sure you don't use the primer on the connection to the overflow. That should be the medium PVC glue only.
 

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