Plumbing your sump?

Ardee · Mar 2, 2016

I am lost on this one. First I need to know best type piping and where to get it? Do you get it at fish stores?

How do I know how much to get to plumb the tank?

Is there any good videos out there on basics of plumbing the tank?

dbl · Mar 2, 2016

I'm going to recommend two things. The first is the following thread. Read through it as it's filled with great information.

The second is to let YouTube be your friend when it comes to plumbing. Search "plumbing saltwater aquarium" and you'll have plenty to view.

You'll find most use the standard PVC you can pick up at your local big box hardware store.

http://reef2reef.com/threads/the-supreme-guide-to-setting-up-a-saltwater-reef-aquarium.138750/

hybridazn · Mar 2, 2016

You can get all the plumbing and fittings at your local lowes or home depot.

I always hard plumb using sch 40 pvc pipe/fittings. To me it's a cleaner look than flex tubing. But it's a little more involved.

redfishbluefish · Mar 2, 2016

I don't believe there is a "best." There are three common ways to plumb a sump.....rigid PVC, flexible PVC and flexible tubing. Rigid and Flexible PVC both use conventional PVC fittings. Flexible tubing requires barbs and hose clamps. The choice boils down to your comfort level with working with that type of pipe. By the way, pretty much everything can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes.

For rigid or flex PVC, pipe comes in ten foot lengths...and is relative inexpensive. Assuming you have a sump directly below the tank, one ten foot length is most likely enough. You then plan out the twists and turns and decide on the fittings needed (elbows and tees). Include a couple unions so that you can take it apart to replace broken equipment.

Flex tubing is purchased by the foot. Decided on any barbs needed and then you're good to go.

Hope this helps.

spartanman22 · Mar 2, 2016

This is how I plumbed my most recent tank.

The colored PVC was purchased from BRS. Otherwise standard PVC from any hardware store works fine. I just wanted mine color coded. I purchased the union ball valves from aquarium specialty.

Ardee · Mar 2, 2016

Thanks for the help.

Is there anything special to do to keep it from leaking.

spartanman22 · Mar 2, 2016

Pvc primer, glue and Teflon tape for any threaded pieces.

mfinn · Mar 3, 2016

Ardee said:
I am lost on this one. First I need to know best type piping and where to get it? Do you get it at fish stores?

How do I know how much to get to plumb the tank?

Is there any good videos out there on basics of plumbing the tank?

I would check to see if there are any local fish clubs in your area.
You will find that people in these clubs love to help people in all areas of the hobby.
You might even find someone to give you specific hands on help and suggestions with plumbing.
Local fish stores are another great source for info and help.

dbrewsky · Mar 3, 2016

If this is your first time plumbing a reef tank I would KISS (keep it simple silly). I would keep it very basic and just run flexible reinforced vinyl tubing to connect the drain and return pump. This avoids a lot of the headaches of attempting to cut,fit,and glue pvc and in most cases the flexible tubing is a more efficient way to plumb the system.

I just wanted to throw another idea out there for you to consider!
There is a lot of great advice and guidance available on this forum and we would be more than happy to assist with any questions or issues you encounter during your build

RMAS0934 · Mar 3, 2016

hybridazn said:
You can get all the plumbing and fittings at your local lowes or home depot.

I always hard plumb using sch 40 pvc pipe/fittings. To me it's a cleaner look than flex tubing. But it's a little more involved.

Question for you, would you hard plumb with the sch40 pvc from a HOB overflow to the sump? I am a little worried about the weight it would add hanging off the bottom of the HOB overflow. My current overflow is beyond load (like I can hear it gurgling from upstairs on the other side of the house with the door shut loud). I thought it would be better to get rid of the hose and use pvc pipe and elbows but I don't know. I was also going to build a hofer gurgle buster and try that. Anyway, would you suggest stick with the hose or hard the overflow to sump? Thanks!

dbrewsky · Mar 3, 2016

I would make a simple durso to quiet the drain -https://dursostandpipes.com/

How far is the overflow from the sump? More than likely the pvc wont increase the weight to a point worth concerning yourself about. If you are worried you can use pvc mounting brackets like these: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/sm-clamp-for-pvc-pipe.html

Are you in a position where you can take a few pictures of the system so we can have eyes on as well>?

AZDesertRat · Mar 3, 2016

I wouldn't hard plumb any HOB overflow myself.

dbrewsky · Mar 3, 2016

If it was me as well i would stick to flexible tubing @AZDesertRat - are you concerned about the reliability of the HOB or is there another factor you are referring to regarding the hard plumbing vs soft?

AZDesertRat · Mar 3, 2016

It is too easy to stress the bulkheads in the bottom of a HOB filter which causes the rubber gaskets to leak. Being in the back it then becomes a pain to fix. Don't hang anything more than you have to on a bulkhead and support it if possible.

dbrewsky · Mar 3, 2016

@AZDesertRat - gotcha I can see that could cause issues down the road.

RMAS0934 · Mar 3, 2016

I'm not so concerned about the actual reliability of the unit, or even that is functioning properly, as much as I am about the noise. You can't even hear people talking when in the same room. I recently installed a CPR CS 90 overflow on a 75 gal tank, with an ESHOPPS RS 100 Sump. I know that it could be air in the drain hose, and I have tried adjusting the height of the box inside the DT for the amount of water going into the overflow. I have also tried adjusting the clear pipe/tube inside the box on the back (this is to adjust the amount of air getting into the hose). I have also adjusted the drain hose a little bit that connects to the sump to try a wiggle out air maybe. There are no bends or curves in the hose and there is no point at which the hose would cause the water to travel uphill before it gets to the sump. I also checked the filter sock and sock compartment in the sump for clogs (the sock was empty, just discolored) not sure if that would've helped, but it didn't. I have also just tried removing the black sponge that is over the bulkhead drain in the box, and lowered/raised the internal overflow box in the tank to allow more/less water into the drain.

RMAS0934 · Mar 3, 2016

I changed from a ESHOPPS 800 HOB overflow b/c if the u-tube was ever touched or bumped then the water level in the sump would change drastically. After that happened, I could never get the water level in the sump to be at consistent level (taking into account evap of course). If the u-tube leaned to the left or right along the top wall (not in or out of the water but left or right), then it would either flood the ob or drain the ob. Once I thought I had it positioned correctly, I could sit back and watch the water level in the sump raise an inch over ten minutes or drain an inch over 5 minutes. So I switched to the CPR style.

dbrewsky · Mar 3, 2016

you can try making a durso standpipe for the drain in the HOB overflow and see if it improves the noise. I would stick with the existing plumbing of the overflow going to the sump as this should not be a driving factor of the noise.

This website has all the steps needed to construct one to fit in your overflow. This should greatly reduce the gurgling and noise you are experiencing.

https://dursostandpipes.com/