Plumbing

[fernalfer]

OK I have decided to use flex PVC for my sump plumbing. I have a dual overflow tank and was wondering if using this would be good to split of the return lines?

https://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?p=PVC-Fittings-Wyes-TrueWye&p_id=413-4160&xm=on&ppinc=detail

For the drains I will install unions at the sump bulkheads and right after return pump. Or should I install ball valves instead to control water flow?

 

[dbl]

I don't see why the wye you linked wouldn't work. I just used a simple T fitting.

Unions before and after pump is a great idea for removal/repair/maintenance. If you want a valve on your pump, only put it on the return side of the pump, not the intake side.

 

[fernalfer]

I don't see why the wye you linked wouldn't work. I just used a simple T fitting.

Unions before and after pump is a great idea for removal/repair/maintenance. If you want a valve on your pump, only put it on the return side of the pump, not the intake side.

Why there would never be a need to shut off the drain side off the sump?

 

[dbl]

To be more clear, there are certain overflow designs that require a valve on the drain (bean animal for one). It's okay to put a valve on the drain side but the caution is to prevent any clogging - like a snail or other creature making it's way through the drains. I actually have a ball valve on my drains, although not necessary. I simply did it for maintenance purposes. If you go that route, I would suggest a true-union ball valve as it serves both purposes.

 

[redfishbluefish]

What overflow do you have? There are certain overflows where this joining of the pipess is not advised (Glass-Holes, for one).

 

[fernalfer]

I have a dual overflow all-glass tank with regular durso standpipes

 

[dbl]

Back to your original post/question, you're wanting to use the "wye" on your return lines correct? Paul brings up a good point about not joining your drain pipes. Just want to make sure I read your question correctly.

 

[redfishbluefish]

OK, thinking out loud, here's my thoughts....I'd prefer keeping them separate.

If I assume 1 inch drains, that's up to 600 gph in each. If you do join them, you'd want the exit portion of that tee or wye to be 1 1/2 inches, at a minimum, to handle the additional flow from the other drain. Now having 1200 gph draining into one chamber of the sump might be too much, unless it's a big sump. (Noise is another potential problem.)

My preference would be to keep them separate and dump each one into opposite corners of the sump, with the return section of the sump in the middle section. Similar to this sump, where the left side is a filter sock and skimmer (external skimmer); the right side is a refugium; and the middle is the return.

 

[fernalfer]

Back to your original post/question, you're wanting to use the "wye" on your return lines correct? Paul brings up a good point about not joining your drain pipes. Just want to make sure I read your question correctly.

I want to use that Wye on the return side not the drain side. I do not want to join the drain lines those will be 2 separate going into the 2 filter socks on my trigger systems pump. I wanted to use that wye split on the return going back out to the dual overflows.

 

[dbl]

I want to use that Wye on the return side not the drain side. I do not want to join the drain lines those will be 2 separate going into the 2 filter socks on my trigger systems pump. I wanted to use that wye split on the return going back out to the dual overflows.

Okay, that's what I thought you were asking. If you want to go the "wye" route I don't see anything wrong with it. But you can use a simple T from one of the big box stores just as well...at least in my opinion.

 

[redfishbluefish]

I want to use that Wye on the return side not the drain side. I do not want to join the drain lines those will be 2 separate going into the 2 filter socks on my trigger systems pump. I wanted to use that wye split on the return going back out to the dual overflows.

I'm sorry, I ain't a good reader!

No problem joining them. However, I'd still start with the biggest pipe you're comfortable with coming out of the pump, and then reduce at the wye/tee. Less frictional loss in bigger pipes.

 

[fernalfer]

I'm sorry, I ain't a good reader!

No problem joining them. However, I'd still start with the biggest pipe you're comfortable with coming out of the pump, and then reduce at the wye/tee. Less frictional loss in bigger pipes.

Would it be OK to reduce right before the bulkhead at the tank instead of the wye?

 

[redfishbluefish]

Yes, the longer you can go with fat pipe, the better off you are. Friction is a killer on flow. Even if the pump has, say a 3/4 inch exit size, immediately take that up to as big as you can....say 1 inch or 1 1/4, or even 1 1/2. You'd be better off with the amount of water returning to the tank.

 

[dbl]

In my opinion, yes. Take it up as large as you can, like Paul said. Then reduce at the bulkhead. I took mine up at 1" out of the pump, then reduced to 3/4" so I could use Loc-Line for output. Probably should have gone up larger out of the pump but it's done!

EDIT: What Paul said...he obviously types faster!!!