Plywood Stand Design

[skyeshoppe]

I am planning out by DIY Stand for a 90 gallon. It is going to be completely made of plywood. Below is a pic of it's framing.

Here it is with more plywood covering the framing. I believe all the load is supported and the stand should hold up fine.

I do have a concern with the part in the back where there is an opening to allow for the aquariums bulkheads to slide in and out.

My concern is will the tank be able to support itself. There is a 17" span that is unsupported. I do need the opening to be this long to accommodate 4 holes.

Does anyone have any advise on how the tank will hold up or any changes I can make to make this work?

 

[glb]

I am planning out by DIY Stand for a 90 gallon. It is going to be completely made of plywood. Below is a pic of it's framing.

Here it is with more plywood covering the framing. I believe all the load is supported and the stand should hold up fine.

I do have a concern with the part in the back where there is an opening to allow for the aquariums bulkheads to slide in and out.

My concern is will the tank be able to support itself. There is a 17" span that is unsupported. I do need the opening to be this long to accommodate 4 holes.

Does anyone have any advise on how the tank will hold up or any changes I can make to make this work?

I think it would probably be fine but you could put a supporting beam all the way across the back of the stand behind where the notch is to add strength.

 

[RedoubtReef]

Looks great! I think the rear is probably good. I'm building a similar stand as well. The main suggestion I was given, was to add a center support in the front which I'll attach with screws once the sump is in place.
I'm assuming this is a 4' span? Once it's together, you will want to make sure the front corners do not move at all. If they do, the suggestion I was given was to add a 2" brace running along each front corner, it will also support the corners of your front beam. I'm on the fence about that until I actually get the stand glued up. You can test to see what your comfortable with by loading the stand up with sandbags if you want to verify your build is solid. At least that was my idea to test.
What are using for joining? Screws? Dowels? Glue? A combo?

 

[RedoubtReef]

Here's a link to plywood builds if you haven't seen it. helped me out: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/show-me-your-diy-plywood-stands.355388/post-4426557

 

[A Fish Called Wanda]

My 90 gallon stand was made using oak plywood which is a harder wood verses an ordinary pine plywood. Just to give you an insight of my stand which uses only the plywood as it’s support. The framing of plywood matches the outside dimensions of the tank on all 4 sides. So it’s the plywood that’s supporting the tank and no 2x4’s running across underneath it.
The vertical support of the plywood can withstand the weight of a 90 gallon tank. Just as long as they’re put together with a very strong construction bonding glue and some good screws to hold them in place. My stand is over 20yrs old and I never had a problem with it.
I actually moved the tank a few times with a 6” DSB and a little water to keep it moist and it held up with the weight… lol Good Luck with building it

 

[A Fish Called Wanda]

Here's a link to plywood builds if you haven't seen it. helped me out: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/show-me-your-diy-plywood-stands.355388/post-4426557

Some really nice DIY tank stands on there.

 

[jsker]

My friend, you have a great design here. The suggestion I would make are

Use Titebond III for all the glued joinery

Laminate the top front support one the front, then you will not need a center stile in the front

Make sure the laminated support is sealed/finish on all sides and ends to prevent water damage.

As in the drawing, stacking the supports like you with the plywood squares on the ends gives the supports something to rest on and distributes the weight down to the floor. The real weight is on the corners.

Do not screw into the layer of plywood but invest in a very simple pocket hole jig. Screwing thought layers makes for a strong joint.

 

[RedoubtReef]

My friend, you have a great design here. The suggestion I would make are

Use Titebond III for all the glued joinery

Laminate the top front support one the front, then you will not need a center stile in the front

Make sure the laminated support is sealed/finish on all sides and ends to prevent water damage.

Are you saying add 1 more layer on the front outside of the current framework?

 

[skyeshoppe]

I think it would probably be fine but you could put a supporting beam all the way across the back of the stand behind where the notch is to add strength.

I'm not sure that would add any additional strength. The loads is going to be underneath the tank and unless the beam was underneath it wouldn't support an additional load.

What are using for joining? Screws? Dowels? Glue? A combo?

It will be a combination of screws, pocket holes and glue

Here's a link to plywood builds if you haven't seen it. helped me out: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/show-me-your-diy-plywood-stands.355388/post-4426557

There are some really nice builds on here.

My 90 gallon stand was made using oak plywood which is a harder wood verses an ordinary pine plywood. Just to give you an insight of my stand which uses only the plywood as it’s support. The framing of plywood matches the outside dimensions of the tank on all 4 sides. So it’s the plywood that’s supporting the tank and no 2x4’s running across underneath it.
The vertical support of the plywood can withstand the weight of a 90 gallon tank. Just as long as they’re put together with a very strong construction bonding glue and some good screws to hold them in place. My stand is over 20yrs old and I never had a problem with it.
I actually moved the tank a few times with a 6” DSB and a little water to keep it moist and it held up with the weight… lol Good Luck with building it

I have built a 90 gallon stand before similar to this but without 2x4s that held up great. The difference between that one and this is there was a vertical stile on each corner and one in the center. It was essentially a box with two openings for a door. The plywood sheet that held up the tank was supported on all 4 sides by the plywood.

My friend, you have a great design here. The suggestion I would make are

Use Titebond III for all the glued joinery

Laminate the top front support one the front, then you will not need a center stile in the front

Make sure the laminated support is sealed/finish on all sides and ends to prevent water damage.

As in the drawing, stacking the supports like you with the plywood squares on the ends gives the supports something to rest on and distributes the weight down to the floor. The real weight is on the corners.

Do not screw into the layer of plywood but invest in a very simple pocket hole jig. Screwing thought layers makes for a strong joint.

I will be using Titebond III and pocket hole joinery. The beams will be laminated and sealed. My whole intention of this design was to avoid a center stile. But I think I may add a removable one. Not for strength but to block out the refugium light that will be visible through the gap of the doors.

 

[jsker]

Are you saying add 1 more layer on the front outside of the current framework?

From the drawing, I see 3 pieces of wood layered.

 

[jsker]

I will be using Titebond III and pocket hole joinery. The beams will be laminated and sealed. My whole intention of this design was to avoid a center stile. But I think I may add a removable one. Not for strength but to block out the refugium light that will be visible through the gap of the doors.

Here is a suggestion. Instead of the center style, put a lip on the door and the lip will block the light from inside of the stand?

 

[skyeshoppe]

Here is a suggestion. Instead of the center style, put a lip on the door and the lip will block the light from inside of the stand?

I have been debating this option as well but this would mean that the doors have to be closed in a certain order. I can see others closing the doors in the wrong order and banging the lip against the other door. I can even see myself doing this. Lol

 

[RedoubtReef]

Sorry if I missed it, but is this a glass or acrylic tank?

 

[skyeshoppe]

Sorry if I missed it, but is this a glass or acrylic tank?

It is a rimmed glass aquarium. 48 x 18 x 24H

 

[homer1475]

Made an all ply stand myself. Just a simple 3/4 baltic birch sides and back, 3/8" Birch top and bottom. The sides, and back rest on the bottom panel, and the top rests on the sides and back. Just like the OEM stand, just with better ply(they used OSB which fell apart when it got wet).

90G cube, and did the cutout in the back for my center tower style overflow.

I sealed all the joints with painters caulk, then primed and painted the entire thing.

 

[glb]

I'm not sure that would add any additional strength. The loads is going to be underneath the tank and unless the beam was underneath it wouldn't support an additional load.


It will be a combination of screws, pocket holes and glue


There are some really nice builds on here.


I have built a 90 gallon stand before similar to this but without 2x4s that held up great. The difference between that one and this is there was a vertical stile on each corner and one in the center. It was essentially a box with two openings for a door. The plywood sheet that held up the tank was supported on all 4 sides by the plywood.


I will be using Titebond III and pocket hole joinery. The beams will be laminated and sealed. My whole intention of this design was to avoid a center stile. But I think I may add a removable one. Not for strength but to block out the refugium light that will be visible through the gap of the doors.

Actually you’re right now that I think of it.

 

[A Fish Called Wanda]

Made an all ply stand myself. Just a simple 3/4 baltic birch sides and back, 3/8" Birch top and bottom. The sides, and back rest on the bottom panel, and the top rests on the sides and back. Just like the OEM stand, just with better ply(they used OSB which fell apart when it got wet).

90G cube, and did the cutout in the back for my center tower style overflow.

I sealed all the joints with painters caulk, then primed and painted the entire thing.

Great job