Plz explain Triton to me

[ZoWhat]

So the way I understand Triton is;

* every time you send a water sample out its $50

* they send you a report at what ratios you dose the 4 bottles. 4 bottles are $78 a set

How often are you sending water samples?

How often are you buying these 4 bottle sets?



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[mike werner]

first let me say no disrespect to triton but for that kind of money i would look into aquaforest.it's similar to triton and much cheaper with great results.check them out in the sponsor threads here on r2r.as a bonus they have some awesome eye candy of tanks on aquaforest.

 

[ZoWhat]

For me.... I have a 75g tank with RODI water just waiting for me next to my sump.

On my sump I have a PVC drain pipe drilled into it with a ball valve.

In less than 10 minutes I can do a 30g WC. 5mins to drain opening the ball valve.

5mins to fill sump with RODO plus add drymix.

Main pump to DT doesn't come back on until I circulate the NSW for an hr and test sump for 1.024 SG.

10mins start to finish. Done

 

[ZachR32]

Triton is typically used for larger systems. Rather than constantly doing water changes you can maintain near perfect chemistry using their suggested dosing additives.

 

[ZachR32]

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/guide-to-the-triton-method.299187/

In this link you can find all of triton's own explanations

 

[ectoaesthetics]

As stated above by @ZachR32 the biggest advantage is the testing and being able to tweak small things. The idea being that you don't need to do water changes to always bring your levels back to where they were. Sometimes you can just add something i.e. iron or strontium... then move on. I have to say that I have tried dosing trace elements before and it is a bit of a mystery as to what you are adding -as it is difficult to accurately test for these compounds. I try not to add ANYTHING to my tank that I cannot test for. That is a pretty hard and fast rule for me -as I've been keeping tanks since the early 90s and have seen too many things go wrong.

In a nutshell you could use something like B-ionic or RedSea colors and also use the Triton water testing to make sure you are not overdosing on the trace elements. If you were dosing B-ionic and something got too high you could just sub out a normal calc or alk based product until those levels were in check.

But yes running the "full Triton method" is pretty much exactly as you describe it above. I think there may also be other random trace elements you can add as well from them, but I am not 100% sure.

I will probably use their testing services to establish a baseline sample with my salt mix once I have my new tank up and running then run it every 6 months or so just to see where I am. I cannot run every element like that at home! I will probably go back to adding RedSea colors just to bring trace elements up and it will be nice to see exactly where everything is. I own the RedSea kits but two of them are pretty terrible at yielding real results -and the "good ones" simply test for one key ingredient and you then have to hope that your tank is absorbing everything equally -which it never will.