Poll: Best Heater Brand

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Best Heater Brand - Longevity & Reliability

  • Eheim Jager

    Votes: 384 51.9%
  • Finnex

    Votes: 157 21.2%
  • Cobalt

    Votes: 99 13.4%
  • JBJ

    Votes: 13 1.8%
  • Hydor

    Votes: 15 2.0%
  • Won

    Votes: 6 0.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 66 8.9%

  • Total voters
    740
Just to add, if the eheim over heats the glass can crack and send electricity through the water.
 
I would use two or three under powered heaters and target a maximum temperature. This way if one or all the heaters stick on the temperatue will only get to lets say 83 f. And nothing would die. Even temperature controllers can fail.
 
Only thing I have to say is "Plan for the worst and manage for the best". All heaters have the potential to fail. If you are in this hobby long enough you will realize it and you can either be prepared for it or not.

In my 200 gallon system I run two seperate 250 watt Eheim Jager heaters controlled by two seperate eb8's on two seperate 20 amp circuit breakers. I also run a grounding probe in the same chamber as my heaters.
 
I am still confused why GLASS is still used in the manufacturing of a submerged appliance.
 
@madweazl l I see that Jager's are very popular by a long shot and I'm curious why? is it brand loyalty? or something I am missing.
 
Last edited:
OK I can see the cost advantage per watt and the outstanding specs. But are they truly shatter proof when live rock is involved?


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Eheim
JAGER TRUTEMP AQUARIUM HEATER

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Fully submersible aquarium heater with TruTemp technology from Eheim.

  • Precise temperature control: 65-93° F
  • Made from shatter-proof laboratory glass
  • TruTemp technology - ability to calibrate the heater for precise temperature
  • Easy calibration to ±2ºF
  • Run dry protection with Thermo safety control - heater shuts off when not submerged
  • UL Certified Heater
  • ON/OFF control lamp to indicate a heating function
  • 5 1/2 Ft. cable
  • Includes clamp with 2 suction cups
  • Made in Germany
 
Really? ..OK :)Readily materials Include Titanium, my finnex, Polymers like my Neo-therm, and ceramics if you really need a silica based material. All the hazards present, shock to people & live stock as well as broken glass in the system can all be avoided and is no longer needed. Am I missing a a benefit using glass as an insulator? also the thermostats or control I believe are more reliable. 10 years ago I had a carbon fiber heater (tube) and this time around I looked and did not see it and went with a Neo-therm now I'm using a finex . To me it makes no sense other than Cents.
@madweazl l I see that Jager's are very popular by a long shot and I'm curious why? is it brand loyalty? or something I am missing.

I've been using Visa-Therms since the day they launched (roughly 20 years ago) and I've had zero failures. Why would the glass break? What would make the glass more prone to leaks? Why would you have a higher risk of shock with glass? Simple, cheap, inert.
 
I've been using Visa-Therms since the day they launched (roughly 20 years ago) and I've had zero failures. Why would the glass break? What would make the glass more prone to leaks? Why would you have a higher risk of shock with glass? Simple, cheap, inert.
Agreed, I was out of line, You and others been using glass for decades and continue to. After reading the specs of the most common heater in use I knew I was wrong and will edit my post to not offend others.
 
I dont think anyone is offended and I dont think anyone is right or wrong.
 
I have aqueon in all 7 of my tanks. Sizes ranging from 10 to 180 gallons.
 
I've only used 2 types of heaters, glass and Schego Titanium. I'll never go back, the Schego's are spot on, keeping the temperature within 0.1C of set-point (external temp controller). The glass heaters struggled to keep within 0.3C each side of set-point, despite being the same wattage.

When one of the glass heaters failed, the temp dropped by 1C. I can run on a single Schego and still maintain 0.1-0.2C variance
 
The biggest tip I can give with ANY heater is to always use a separate temp probe and controller and NOT the built in thermostats, regardless of how accurate they claim to be.

A thermostat attached to the heater itself is never going to give an accurate reading of the tank temperature or react fast enough. Without a temp controller, my tank temperature fluctuated by 2C.

Built in thermostats are useful as a failsafe, in case of an error with the temp probe or controller. Setting these 1C above set-point will ensure you don't boil the tank in the event of controller failure.
 
Doesn't BRS state on their Youtube channel that they have never seen a Cobalt Neotherm heater fail in the on position? I use Cobalt Neotherms for this very reason. I am also scared of Mark Callahan's story of his heater failure and his was a titanium heater.
upload_2018-6-20_19-54-13.png


It cracked open and leached copper into his system:
 
The Eheim Jager is way,....out front in the polling.

Is there a type and brand that works better with a Apex ?
I might,...buy a Apex for more accurate temp heating, fail safe and warning. I know I'll want more of their add on's, that the price gets very
expensive ! I heard that a reefer has over $2,500 in his so far. I don't know what all products he has.

Does the Apex or any heaters have an audible alarm if the water gets too cold or hot ?
 
Best heater is one with a ranco controller or stand alone controller.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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