Polyp systems & GFO

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I'm looking for some help on this from those who are mainly polyp keepers. I wana know your feelings, ideas and experiences with the use of gfo on your systems. I'm kinda getting bothered by the algae on both the glass and tiles, substrate, and in and around the polyp frags and colonies. Snails produce a lot of detritus. Hermits annoy the heck out of my polyps, and I really don't wana run UV as I've taken it offline.

I know gfo can affect alk a little and cause some precipitation. How much I don't actually know. I've heard gfo can really help with even the slightest algae. But I really don't know much or have much experience with it. Does it affect polyps the same way the lack of nutrients can affect sps, is one question I have. I'm pretty sure it can starve sps in some cases causing them to pale out, etc.

I would really appreciate some quality assistance on this please folks. The more input I can get, the better.

Please help and advise me. I really just wana do the right things to give me the nicest display I can acheive, but the healthiest polyps first and foremost.
 
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My personal experience is that GFO is pretty strong. I personally would recommend getting a fuge if you don't already have one. If that is not a possibility I was using SeaGel by Seachem. It is a great product, it is an all in one media and works well on keeping the phosphates down
 
A fuge is definately a possibility :)

Not sayin I was gonna use it, but I thought I would get some experienced info. So thank you for chiming in.
 
IMHO, algea can affect tour zoas growth so removing it would help you achieve your dream tank easier. You have to find a balance, I have 18 fish in a 90g display with 25g sump and 20l attached frag tank, I feed on the heavy side and use biopellets, 5tbsp rowaphos with 15tbsp carbon every 3-4 weeks, dose 3ml vodka with 6ml viniger daily and dose 2tbsp vitamin c daily. I dose it all Lol, but most importantly I have balance with my huge bioload and how much my skimmer exports as I keep nitrates less then .5ppm and phosphate less then .003ppm. I think lighting is the most important factor, not phosphate. I use t5s and they tend to be more gentle to corals where LEDs focus light energy on a spot and thus is where corals bleach. Anyway, hope I offered some insight or at least helped.
 
I should note, that with about 50 (now) and possibly 70 to 75 (later) of total water volume, I don't plan to keep more than 3 to 4, maybe 5 smaller fish. I don't like to stock heavy.
 
I've been using GFO for a month now and algae is way down from what it was. I dose alk once a week and no other issues, so I would recommend it to anyone with an algae problem
 
I don't have a problem peirse', but I do have that obnoxious green/brown dust all over the glass, and columns since taking UV offline. And I notice some brownish, furry algae developing more around the polyps and other areas now as well.
 
I've always used GFO but half of the recomended dose. My phosphates are usually around .15-.25 and if i have places where hermits and snails don't reach like frag racks I always have algae problems. Luckily I'm 20 min. from the beach and I can get lots of blue legs to keep the algae in check. if you get bryopsis you might need a lettuce nudi but you have to lower the flow. This week i spent over 10 hours cleaning frags full of algae on my frag tank because I was out for the week and my melaneris wrasse got hungry and ate a bunch of snails and hermits. This morning I got a bunch of hermits and I see them working on the little leftovers.
[video=youtube;vzyy7sH9XCw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzyy7sH9XCw[/video]
 
yeah freaking frag racks are algea magnets, I may have to do the extra work and get them made from acrylic to keep from algea getting everywhere, a seahare also works wonders with algea and possibly bryopsis
 

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