Polyurethane or Spar Varnish?

madlos123

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 11, 2016
Messages
501
Reaction score
622
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
So im going to stain my stand. What to use afterwards as topcoat
Anyone know if I should use Polyurethane or the Rust-oleum Spar Varnish?

Pine btw.

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
I think it depends on the type of wood, the exact varnish, etc. For example you can stain a stand with 'stain' and then polyurethane over it.
 
Its just pine wood.
Im just wondering which last longer or better since i am dealing with salt.
 
So, both of those are top coats, not stains. Stains add pigments. Top coats add solids to build a film to protect your workpiece.

Fyi, pine does not take stain well. It will be splotchy from unequal absorption.

If you want pine colored, go paint or general finishes milk paint

I wouldn't use of the top coats you mentioned either if you can get Waterlox. IMHO the best topper that exists. It takes a long time to cure, but is EXTREMELY durable and easy to apply.
 
Its just pine wood.
Im just wondering which last longer or better since i am dealing with salt.
Not sure many people would have the 'exact expertise' to answer that. I would suggest that you call each company and ask. Polyurethane is stronger than 'varnish'.
 
Sorry, I meant after i stain my stand lol what to use as topcoat
 
if you want to drive yourself crazy...there is a truck bed manufacturer in oklahoma named Mar K...they did multi year tests on various clearcoats over stains on both pine and oak as used on the floors of pickup trick beds...the stuff was outside so UV and sunlight involved too ....no clue how to provide a link just google mar k
 
I've used Waterlox on at least 2 dozen client projects over the last 5 years.

It's my go-to when it has to hold up. It's an extremely hard film forming finish and very durable.

When I apply I usually do double the amount of coats but thinned by half. I use the universal as a two coat base because it has the highest number of solid count.
 
Just a few thoughts. I'm in the process of finishing a pine stand myself. First, before staining, definitely use some pre-stain wood conditioner, this will help the pine take the stain more evenly. I'm using an oil-based, semi-gloss polyurethane for the top coat and I'm very happy with the results so far (I'm two coats in). It does need to dry for 24-48 hours between coats, and you need to sand with 320 grit sandpaper between coats. The finish will look like crap after the first coat, but don't worry, sand off the dust nibs and it will look much better with the second coat.
 
I should have listened to the guy at the store, who said get stain, and get clear varnish— don’t get the can that claims to do both at once we’ll. Instead I bought the all-in-one stain/varnish combo, and it brushed on like sticky glue. :(
 
The fumes from spar varnish killed off a whole tank of African chiclids in one of my customers tanks. They could not keep fish alive in the tank afterwards. I only recommend Polyurethane for aquarium use. I sold tanks and furniture grade stands and canopies for over 25 years as a aquarium manufacturer and wholesaler.
It was used on the canopy and fish stared dropping like flies.
 
Last edited:

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top