there just isn't a lot of resources out there yet (as far as I can tell).
Yeah, there’s almost no info out there on pom pom crab culturing.
I have to ask how you know so much about this? Have you talked around with breeders?
I’ve done quite a lot of reading up on scientific aquaculture research about a number of different species (pretty much anything I can find info on - fish, invert, coral, etc. - I read about).
What makes you think Parvocalanus crassirostris is a good starting choice? Is there some kind of understanding of which nutrients crab larvae require to grow?
Parvo is my go to suggestion for species that either haven’t been bred yet (especially if attempted in the past, as I know pom poms crabs have been) or if they’ve only been aquacultured recently. My reasoning is that rotifers and Artemia nauplii have been the go-to staple for breeding for decades (BBS especially for crabs), so it’s practically guaranteed they’ve been tried before unsuccessfully (it’s possible they work as a first feed, then hit a bottleneck though). Beyond that, Parvo pods are small enough to be used in place of rotifers (pretty well all other pods on the market at this point are too big), and the other pods on the market are both typically easier to culture than Parvocalanus pods and have been in use by professional aquaculturists for longer now, so the odds are relatively high that someone has tried them before unsuccessfully as well. Again, these may work, be the right size, move the right ways, etc. for these, but I’d assume not (at least for the first feeding).
Generally speaking, as far as the nutrition goes, most crabs (such as decorator crabs, arrow crabs, mud crabs, fiddler crabs,
Mithraculus spp., etc.) have done well from a larval-survival perspective when fed either brine shrimp nauplii exclusively or both BBS and rotifers (not rotifers alone). So, feeding BBS makes sense, as it seems to meet most crabs nutritional needs at least relatively well. However - given my assumption above - I’m assuming something is wrong with that diet for these guys specifically (at least, at some point).
Relatively little crab aquaculture research that I’ve looked at involved copepods (though looking back at the decorator crab research, they were offered Parvocalanus and did worse on a Parvo and BBS diet than just on a BBS only diet, so it may not be a great first feed suggestion for crabs). That brings me the quote and questions below:
Apparently they eat a lot.
Have you found anyone who has confirmed these guys eating something as larvae? If so, what were they feeding, and when (meaning, from what days post hatch and for how many days post hatch)? Do you have any links to their efforts that I could read?
If they’re already shown to be eating specific foods, them looking into why those foods didn’t work is a good starting point: was it not meeting their nutritional needs? was it too big? did it not move in the right way to encourage predation? was it in the right part of the larval rearing tank for the larvae? was there enough of it for the larvae? was there too much of it for the larvae (this one sounds odd, but having too many feeders in a tank can cause serious issues for some species)? Etc.
If you can narrow down why it doesn’t work, then you can try to figure out ways around the issue.
All the rearing tanks I've seen for inverts are bare bottom. Is this a requirement, or do you think they can settle on substrate?
Not a requirement, but barebottom tanks have a few benefits in larval rearing (cheaper, easier to keep clean, easier to see the larvae, etc.), so most people run them. That said, as I mentioned before, some species literally require substrate to settle on (and some need very specific substrates, such as specific species of diatoms), so it depends a bit on the species and on how much labor is being put into the rearing (some species get graded into different tanks based on size at different ages - this is commonly done to avoid cannibalism - so the specimens may only have a settlement substrate in a specific tank, but moving specimens between tanks every few days is obviously pretty labor intensive/time-consuming).
Again, the settlement cues vary from one species to another, and some have very specific cues needed while others just settle on their own. With situations like this one where settlement cues aren’t known, it may be wise to try one batch with none and then branch out from there to see if they need a specific cue.