Poor Man's Nutrients Control - Donovan's Nitrate Destroyer

[Elgringodiablo]

@Elgringodiablo, what is your tank size?. What is your reactor size and total length?. Any picture of the reactor?. What is your effluent flow rate? Nopox quantity per day? How many times per day?

It's 5o gallons total including sump. I don't have the photos handy, but posted them in this thread back when I first built the reactor. I'd imagine it's about 5-6 liters total volume empty. Effluent flow is probably about 40gph, since the PMUP is about 100gph accounting for head pressure and the valve half closed. I am dosing 7-8ml NoPoX per day, 0.3ml once per hour.

 

[Elgringodiablo]

When denitrator is down for a few hours, always throw out the effluent for 15 to 30 minutes or until the rotten egg smells fade out.

Yeah, that would have been a good move, fortunately it didn't put enough sulfide into the tank to take the ph below 7.8 and ORP down to 240. I had a big ritteri anemone die under a rock in a different system that spiked my ORP down to 100 when I pulled what was left of it out of the tank and ended up killing half my fish.

 

[Donovan Joannes]

It's 5o gallons total including sump. I don't have the photos handy, but posted them in this thread back when I first built the reactor. I'd imagine it's about 5-6 liters total volume empty. Effluent flow is probably about 40gph, since the PMUP is about 100gph accounting for head pressure and the valve half closed. I am dosing 7-8ml NoPoX per day, 0.3ml once per hour.

Your effluent flow is way too high. IME , my daily denitrator turn over flow rate should be between 5% - 10% of total volume (means yours should be 2.5G to 5G in 24 hours). This flow rate is for new denitrator only. At 40gph, your turn over rate is slightly over an hour which is extremely high. My current turn over rate is slightly below 24 hours to keep nitrate below 5ppm.

You are having cyano in your sump because the nopox was flushed out from the reactor before the bacteria had the chance to consume it.

 

[Ponraj A]

Mistakes made so far,
1st reactor - size was small and not efficient
2nd reactor - loading the media improperly output get clogged and the flow cant be increased, but the reactor effluent output came to zero nitrate
3rd reactor - installed on 24 Aug 17.
After one week the effluent output from the reactor and tank water are 25ppm (from 50ppm in tank water earlier) refer photos below

 

[Donovan Joannes]

Much better. Can you max out the effluent with this new reactor?.

 

[Ponraj A]

Much better. Can you max out the effluent with this new reactor?.

Yes I can increase the flow fully and decrease the flow as like I want.

"U"Portion fulled only with siporax and big ceramic rings
first chamber - big bio balls and marine pure 1"cubes
second chamber - Dophin small bio balls and rest of marine pure 1"cubes here an there

 

[Donovan Joannes]

Nice! With proper flow it will be easier to tune the nitrate level. Please update your result once the reactor register zero nitrate at output.

 

[Ponraj A]

Nice! With proper flow it will be easier to tune the nitrate level. Please update your result once the reactor register zero nitrate at output.

For sure !!!!

 

[ramona]

Could this reactor be used with a 9 G cube?

 

[Donovan Joannes]

Could this reactor be used with a 9 G cube?

Sure, you might need to downscale a bit. 3" pipe should be the right size. But why you need one?. Water changes should do the trick (nutrients control) for a small tank like yours.

 

[ramona]

Thanks for prompt reply. It's my first tank and i am doing lots of readings. The simplicity of your sump compared to all the gadgets available just attracted me.
If you don't mind, how would you set up a rimless 12"x 12"x 14"? Sump or canister filter?

 

[Donovan Joannes]

A sump for sure. All in one tank is suitable for that size too.

 

[Ponraj A]

Update
Both the reactor and tank water output has got to 10ppm as on 06 Sep 17. Please refer the below photos. This reactor is working and I am feeling better and happy. Thanks DJ !!!!! @Donovan Joannes

 

[Vahanyos]

Love everything about this. I love DIY's that successful, and this is on a whole other level!

I almost want to raise my nitrates just to lower them with this! Lol..

Great job man!

 

[Donovan Joannes]

Update
Both the reactor and tank water output has got to 10ppm as on 06 Sep 17. Please refer the below photos. This reactor is working and I am feeling better and happy. Thanks DJ !!!!! @Donovan Joannes

Nice!. Congrats my friend. Adjusting nitrate level will be much easier with flow/carbon since your new reactor effluent output is now properly working.

 

[Donovan Joannes]

Sorry, double posting.

 

[Donovan Joannes]

Love everything about this. I love DIY's that successful, and this is on a whole other level!

I almost want to raise my nitrates just to lower them with this! Lol..

Great job man!

Haha. Get more fish sir!

 

[Gino]

Nice work Donovan. I love this DIY project. I'm in a process of building up a larger tank, from a 29 to a 50 or a little larger (but in the 48" space that I could claim), because in the moving from Miami to Tampa last month, the moving company broke my BioCube and I saw the opportunity to increase the size this time (my wife gave me a little more space... ). I'm wondering if the right size for my build will be 4" x 18" reactor?
My live rocks still in buckets with water and air, and I divide the fish between the buckets and they are hanging there with regular water changes. This means that I won't have too many problem stablishing it back. But, with the last tank I was struggling with No3 with higher level than I desire. I know, that right now I don't need it. But I think it could be a good addition to my filtration system.
Any thoughts will be very helpful at this point. Plumbing it, dimensions, media, ECT...
Thanks for your time and help with this excellent DIY

 

[Donovan Joannes]

Hi @Gino ,

I am glad you are interested in this. If you have space for 4" (D) x 18" (H) x 2 pieces, I would say just go ahead as it is. I wouldn't build a shorter one, you might be okay with 3" diameter at 18" high, but I probably go taller than 20" for a 3" diameter pipe.

As for the media, just grab whatever ceramic media (inert) available on the shelf. I don't think there is a specific type/brand to be used in this reactor. Highly porous, bigger than 1/2" in size (cube, balls, rings) or very coarse coral rubble of various sizes will work as well. The only one thing I would emphasize when filling the reactor, MAKE SURE you have voids and holes all over the length of reactor so that it won't get clogged. It will clogged due to bacteria build-up if your initial nitrate level is high. The voids and holes will prevent clogging from happening.

I believe you have read through this thread from the beginning. Basic design is on the first page, but don't limit yourself by copying the exact dimension/design. The inlet pipe/hose is up to you (bigger than 1/2" is too big), just make sure you have gate or ball valve on it to adjust the flow. The outlet hose is critical, do not use bigger than 3/8" ID silicone hose. You don't want air to get into the second chamber via this hose. A clear silicone hose is better, at some stage of maturity, you will be able to see gas bubble coming out from it.

Just to give you some idea how it looks like in my sump (12" x 12" x 18"). The white thing is the reactor

 

[Gino]

Hi @Gino ,

I am glad you are interested in this. If you have space for 4" (D) x 18" (H) x 2 pieces, I would say just go ahead as it is. I wouldn't build a shorter one, you might be okay with 3" diameter at 18" high, but I probably go taller than 20" for a 3" diameter pipe.

As for the media, just grab whatever ceramic media (inert) available on the shelf. I don't think there is a specific type/brand to be used in this reactor. Highly porous, bigger than 1/2" in size (cube, balls, rings) or very coarse coral rubble of various sizes will work as well. The only one thing I would emphasize when filling the reactor, MAKE SURE you have voids and holes all over the length of reactor so that it won't get clogged. It will clogged due to bacteria build-up if your initial nitrate level is high. The voids and holes will prevent clogging from happening.

I believe you have read through this thread from the beginning. Basic design is on the first page, but don't limit yourself by copying the exact dimension/design. The inlet pipe/hose is up to you (bigger than 1/2" is too big), just make sure you have gate or ball valve on it to adjust the flow. The outlet hose is critical, do not use bigger than 3/8" ID silicone hose. You don't want air to get into the second chamber via this hose. A clear silicone hose is better, at some stage of maturity, you will be able to see gas bubble coming out from it.

Just to give you some idea how it looks like in my sump (12" x 12" x 18"). The white thing is the reactor

I definitely will give it a try in my new build up, because I know me and I like to over stock. And I read the complete post and it looks pretty straight forward.
I only got few doubts...
1- Were to carbon dose (sump or first chamber?)
2- Use the overflow return, splitting up to the protein skimmer and reactor or connect it to the manifold from the return pump with the carbon reactor and UV.
Thanks again