Poor Man's Nutrients Control - Donovan's Nitrate Destroyer

Update: So I have been using (Metalino) steelwool in the outflow of the DND (donovans nitrate destroyer), drilled some holes in the tubing. just in case the waterflow is restricted due to clumping of the rust. To prevent a build up of rust in equipment, I am filtering over filterwool (fiberfill - dacron). So far it has been serving me well. 0,8 grams of steel wool binds 0,04 ppm Po4 of my 400L tank. Due to the low flow of the output it prevents clouding in the tank and the rusted steel remains in the tube (loosely), and is easy to flush out in the sink and replace with some fresh steel.

Who knows, maybe it helps those struggle with rising Po4. Steel wool is incredibly effective in binding Po4... and very cheap too.. i would say a nice addition to this poor man nutrients control.

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Can you give me a link of steel wool, so I can understand what is it? Thanks
 
By using union nipple and jam nut on both side.

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Love the concept and results for sure. just a bit confused on internal items etc... and is thin an additional to your sump or your only sump? I'm taking in all information as possible for my new build and like to possible implement your idea onto the new build. :);)
 
This is probably 1 of the coolest and affordable DIY things I've seen in awhile that helps maintain tank health and prevent all the nuisance algaes from growing in display tanks. I might try this setup out when I build up the courage to try it out. Im always weary of trying new things because I dont wanna mess my tank up especially with things I'm not familiar with but I must say this definitely has caught my eye.
 
This is probably 1 of the coolest and affordable DIY things I've seen in awhile that helps maintain tank health and prevent all the nuisance algaes from growing in display tanks. I might try this setup out when I build up the courage to try it out. Im always weary of trying new things because I dont wanna mess my tank up especially with things I'm not familiar with but I must say this definitely has caught my eye.

'All the nuisance algae' ?.. where did you read that? The only thing it does is controll No3 very well and prevent any slime buildup in the main tank. You cannot mess your tank up with this design, as long as you make sure water runs through the reactor freely (use coarse material/nothing can block te exit) and there is enough flow..
 
@Tmmste I thought this was designed to help remove Cyano and Diatom / nuisance algaes. That's why I wrote what I wrote.
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'All the nuisance algae' ?.. where did you read that? The only thing it does is controll No3 very well and prevent any slime buildup in the main tank. You cannot mess your tank up with this design, as long as you make sure water runs through the reactor freely (use coarse material/nothing can block te exit) and there is enough flow..
"The only thing it does is controll No3 very well" which by extension controls nuisance algae.......

The number 1 thing absolutely anyone with nuisance algae gets told to do is to reduce nitrates and phosphates. This is a great way of reducing nitrates hence it can help to reduce or control nuisance algae.
 
"The only thing it does is controll No3 very well" which by extension controls nuisance algae.......

The number 1 thing absolutely anyone with nuisance algae gets told to do is to reduce nitrates and phosphates. This is a great way of reducing nitrates hence it can help to reduce or control nuisance algae.

And phosphates indeed. The reactor does nothing for your phosphates. I feel you cannot rely solely on the reactor to solve or prevent nuisance algae, it is just another tool to complement the filtration
 
And phosphates indeed. The reactor does nothing for your phosphates. I feel you cannot rely solely on the reactor to solve or prevent nuisance algae, it is just another tool to complement the filtration
I understand what you are trying to say, but even if that was the case it doesn't mean a nitrate reactor wont help with nuisance algae as nitrate is generally what most people struggle with. I would also say that MOST forms of filtration shouldn't be solely relied on and the best approach is always a mix of 2 or 3 filtration items.

However, you will likely find that this kind of reactor can and does reduce phosphate, although not as efficiently as it will nitrate. To get the nitrifying bacteria we are adding a carbon source (vinegar or vodka etc.) and that carbon source will also encourage the growth of phosphate eating bacteria.
 
I understand what you are trying to say, but even if that was the case it doesn't mean a nitrate reactor wont help with nuisance algae as nitrate is generally what most people struggle with. I would also say that MOST forms of filtration shouldn't be solely relied on and the best approach is always a mix of 2 or 3 filtration items.

However, you will likely find that this kind of reactor can and does reduce phosphate, although not as efficiently as it will nitrate. To get the nitrifying bacteria we are adding a carbon source (vinegar or vodka etc.) and that carbon source will also encourage the growth of phosphate eating bacteria.

If the an excess of No3 is what is causing the issue, the reactor is the best indeed. I personally combine the reactor with steelwool and export the FePO4 (& excess biomass) via fiberfill and skimming. As you suggest, the combination is key, not solely the reactor for algae management. That is all I wanted to point out.
 
May I ask if anyone has used this twin tower filter effectively, without the carbon dosing?
 
currently I am using single large 48" tall x 12" wide tower without carbon dosing, I am letting bacteria grow based on bio load and I will see if this works out, in my last dual chamber reactor I did carbon dosing from the day I started the reactor, this time I am trying something different and we will see what happens.. I already have port for carbon dosing and if needed it is already there and I will just start dosing with dosing pump
 
currently I am using single large 48" tall x 12" wide tower without carbon dosing, I am letting bacteria grow based on bio load and I will see if this works out, in my last dual chamber reactor I did carbon dosing from the day I started the reactor, this time I am trying something different and we will see what happens.. I already have port for carbon dosing and if needed it is already there and I will just start dosing with dosing pump

Thanks for the information. Do update us on the results when you have them.

Currently i am dosing Nopox for my tank. Nitrate level is manageable, but it brings up the monthly running cost of the tank.
Hoping find a cheaper solution, preferably without any dosing.
 
Thanks Donovan. Set this up 5 days ago with live rock CC and topped with MP Spheres (both from my sump) on the anaerobic side. DT is 20ppm. 0ppm from the reactor today. 18" and dosing a few times with carbon. I've got some additional check valves planned when plumbing this into the sump; the thought being that this can only help keep an anaerobic condition. I'll be at about 480L + 50L total. Running about 6L/hr through the reactor and no sulphur (yet). My tank uses crushed coral as a base and I feed a lot to keep my kids happy.
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What sort of maintenance schedule are ya'll doing on these?
 
I built with removable 4" caps but don't plan to open. I built removable for any H2S issues not getting sorted with flow increases.
I have a question regarding best practices for placement. Some folks are feeding directly from the tank, others are downstream from the socks/roller filter and others are downstream from the skimmer.
Are there any pit-falls feeding this directly after your socks? Has anyone experienced pack-offs inside the reactor from detritus?
 
I built with removable 4" caps but don't plan to open. I built removable for any H2S issues not getting sorted with flow increases.
I have a question regarding best practices for placement. Some folks are feeding directly from the tank, others are downstream from the socks/roller filter and others are downstream from the skimmer.
Are there any pit-falls feeding this directly after your socks? Has anyone experienced pack-offs inside the reactor from detritus?
Mine got clogged with detritus, when I was making trials, by removing the filter socks. Once clogged you have to remove all the media and clean it with the tank water and start the reactor again after refilling.
 
Thanks Ponraj.
Would a recommendation be to start with bigger size (crushed coral / golfball size) media and eliminating finer "matrix" as a Lesson Learned for others to prevent this?
My thoughts were to avoid clogging yet still provide enough "soak time" in the anoxic side and avoid some the early lessons shared here with H2S and pack-offs.
My reactor produces a steady slow rate of N2 bubbles (1 every 3 seconds @ 6L/hr) - I'm still waiting to see if the sizing can keep up fully with how I (my kids) feed and get away from 10-15% weekly water changes.
 

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