Poor Man's Nutrients Control - Donovan's Nitrate Destroyer

[pandagobyguy]

As far as the pump goes, is it the same kind of pump as toms aqua lifter?.
Also is there a reason it should be dark inside reactor? If not, think it would be possibly to make one out of plastic bottles?
How necessary are multiple stages of different size media?

Sorry if you have already answered these questions (418 posts was a lot and I'm lazy XD).

 

[Donovan Joannes]

Any small pump will do, or tap off from your existing return pipe to save cost running another pump. It doesn't really matter.

Dark - better bacteria growth. You don't need a light as they are not photosynthesis anyway. Save some electricity!

Multi layer media is simply for better water flow, increases surface area for bacteria colonisation and different media thickness harbours different type bacteria.

You can use anything to build the reactors. Use whatever available in your garage, save some money to buy nice corals.

 

[Greenstreet.1]

@Donovan Joannes thank you very much for sharing just got mine started this morning I’m almost done just need to pick up a few more supplies this afternoon. I just started back up my system so let’s see how well this goes for I.

Thank you once again.

 

[cchomistek]

I did not glue the discharge line into place. I just have a snug fut hose discharging the fluid back to the sump. Should this post a problem in creating an oxygen free zone or the small amount of oxygen should not cause a problem??

 

[Donovan Joannes]

@Donovan Joannes thank you very much for sharing just got mine started this morning I’m almost done just need to pick up a few more supplies this afternoon. I just started back up my system so let’s see how well this goes for I.

Thank you once again.

Looks good to me. What media you chose?

 

[Donovan Joannes]

I did not glue the discharge line into place. I just have a snug fut hose discharging the fluid back to the sump. Should this post a problem in creating an oxygen free zone or the small amount of oxygen should not cause a problem??

Snug fitted shouldn't pose any issue. Mine? Same as yours, nothing is glued for the inlet and outlet silicone hose. Works perfectly fine

 

[Greenstreet.1]

Looks good to me. What media you chose?

Did not pickup any media yet. But have a quick question for you what if I add some live rock to the mix

 

[Donovan Joannes]

Did not pickup any media yet. But have a quick question for you what if I add some live rock to the mix

No problem, as long as your live rock is porous enough. In fact, any porous media will do. I used coral rubbles, bio rings, bio balls, broken live rocks and pumice stones (you can forget about pumice stones, it will still works). Use whatever fits your budget.

 

[Greenstreet.1]

Ok will go with live rock(have to break some up) bio rings and bio balls

 

[Greenstreet.1]

Finish about to run leak test and breakup some rock then get the rest of the media

 

[Donovan Joannes]

Finish about to run leak test and breakup some rock then get the rest of the media

Your outlet hose is too big (on your right?). That will allow air to enter the second tower. Use a smaller hose (less than 3/8").

 

[Greenstreet.1]

Your outlet hose is too big (on your right?). That will allow air to enter the second tower. Use a smaller hose (less than 3/8").

Man!! Was thinking the same but went that route. During leak test the two bulk heads where leaking the sad part is I just fixed that side. Will have to try and reduce the hose down to 3/8

 

[cchomistek]

Plenty of nitrogen bubbles coming through the discharge line today so I assume this means that nitrate reduction is occurring.

 

[|FATHOM|]

Snug fitted shouldn't pose any issue. Mine? Same as yours, nothing is glued for the inlet and outlet silicone hose. Works perfectly fine

Donovan thank you again for this diy. I am about ready to start and have all the materials except for hoses and fittings for the inlet and outlet. I was wondering what size those blue fitting are and what size that hose is. I know you said you are using a 3/8th quick connect plastic valve but am not sure which fittings those are in the reactor.

Also how did you attach it to your return pipe? I have a corrugated pool hose that I would like to tap into but was looking into suggestions on how to secure the hose. I was thinking drilling a small hole in it and forcing the pipe at a angle like yours. What are your thoughts? Thank you again

 

[Greenstreet.1]

The hose is 1/4 the fittings are 3/8 just added mine on the exit

 

[Donovan Joannes]

Man!! Was thinking the same but went that route. During leak test the two bulk heads where leaking the sad part is I just fixed that side. Will have to try and reduce the hose down to 3/8

You can heat up the silicone tube, put a pencil at the heated end and pinch the hose to form a good tight. Once cooled, remove the pencil and wallaaa. Save your time and money

 

[Donovan Joannes]

Plenty of nitrogen bubbles coming through the discharge line today so I assume this means that nitrate reduction is occurring.

That is a good sign my friend. Nice job!

 

[Greenstreet.1]

You can heat up the silicone tube, put a pencil at the heated end and pinch the hose to form a good tight. Once cooled, remove the pencil and wallaaa. Save your time and money

Like that idea but already fixed it just have to leak test after I finish redoing the in line. Pic of the fist fix posted up-top

 

[Donovan Joannes]

Donovan thank you again for this diy. I am about ready to start and have all the materials except for hoses and fittings for the inlet and outlet. I was wondering what size those blue fitting are and what size that hose is. I know you said you are using a 3/8th quick connect plastic valve but am not sure which fittings those are in the reactor.

Also how did you attach it to your return pipe? I have a corrugated pool hose that I would like to tap into but was looking into suggestions on how to secure the hose. I was thinking drilling a small hole in it and forcing the pipe at a angle like yours. What are your thoughts? Thank you again

That blue thing isa balloon holding stick . It fits snugly with the silicone tube, so it works perfectly as hose quick connect. I have a short tube fitted internally, followed by the blue plastic "quick connect" and the visible tube on the outside.

My control valve is using 3/8" quick connect type I bought from water filter shop.

No, you need a proper tee off if you are tapping from your return line. Mine is fed from the overflow pipe going to the sump, no pressure involved. Return line is pressurise, without proper fittings it will create havoc if the reactor feeding hose dislocated.

 

[Donovan Joannes]

Like that idea but already fixed it just have to leak test after I finish redoing the in line. Pic of the fist fix posted up-top

Yup, I saw your red shiny tube. I hate driving to the hardware shop if I am in the midst of doing something.