Possibly dying anemone

IE Reefer

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
406
Reaction score
120
Location
Inland Empire
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hey everyone!
I've been having this anemone for about 2 months and its health has been decreasing from about the first-month mark, throughout the period that I've been having it it's been moving around quite a lot which I deemed normal, but around the 1.5-month mark it decided to move down to the sand bed and that's where it's overall health started to decrease. It started to lose its color, its tentacles started to become shorter and thinner, and it started to shrink, also it started to very frequently dispose of dark brown/black waste. I know that this might be the end of the line for this little guy, but is there anything that I can do for it that might increase its chances of survival, or is it too late? The first picture shown is what it looked like the day after I bought him, the second is what he looks like now.

7cb1405c1b694601ac4351cd34f8721c.jpeg tempImageLqyuBd.png
 
Hey everyone!
I've been having this anemone for about 2 months and its health has been decreasing from about the first-month mark, throughout the period that I've been having it it's been moving around quite a lot which I deemed normal, but around the 1.5-month mark it decided to move down to the sand bed and that's where it's overall health started to decrease. It started to lose its color, its tentacles started to become shorter and thinner, and it started to shrink, also it started to very frequently dispose of dark brown/black waste. I know that this might be the end of the line for this little guy, but is there anything that I can do for it that might increase its chances of survival, or is it too late? The first picture shown is what it looked like the day after I bought him, the second is what he looks like now.

7cb1405c1b694601ac4351cd34f8721c.jpeg tempImageLqyuBd.png
bump
 
It’s probably gone. When you moved it was it attached to a rock or did you have to remove it?
When I found it on the sand bed, I moved it to a higher location, but later had to remove it from the rock because it was already making its way to the sand bed again.
How old is your tank? What are your water parameters? Is it in a cup in that second picture? It unfortunately does look dead. :(
It's about a year and 8 months old. I'll have to do another round of testing, but this was from last week's test (to note: I haven't done a water change in quite some time, and I've been planning to do one sooner or later but I've been so busy and I needed to buy more salt). pH: 7.8ppm, Ammonia: 0ppm, Nitrite: 0ppm, Nitrate: 0ppm (possibly, used API bc my Hanna tester was out of use at the moment of testing), Phos: 0.03ppm, Mag: 1030ppm, Cal: 440ppm, Salinity: 1.023ppm. Yes, in the second picture I put the nem into a cup so that when I do feed the nem shrimp, non of the crabs or fish tries to nab it from it.

Below is a picture two hours later after pooping or whatever it was doing. Also, the new seems to do better in the blue lighting than the lighting that I have scheduled throughout the day.

tempImagePwZiZF.png
 
Okay, it's not dead, but it *is* expelling zooxanthellae at a concerning rate.

What type of light do you have? What other corals are kept in the tank? How often are you feeding it?
 
Placement is quite important as is light and water flow. They’re not as easy to own as many people think. Thanks to the symbiotic relationship they form with certain fish, they are a joy to watch and care for. This species splits and propagates very easily in the right conditions, resulting in large captive populations.
The length of the tentacles can vary. The same goes for the size and shape of the bulb. With some specimens, the bulb is accompanied by a small tip. Interestingly enough, the tentacles can change based on the anemone’s environment. Below the splay of tentacles is the anemone’s foot. The foot is delicate. Yet, it has simple muscle fibers that help the creature move and anchor onto rocks.
Many new and seasoned aquarists dream of owning these invertebrates. But proper anemone care requires a bit of work to keep these creatures healthy! In short, we usually don’t recommend them for first-time aquarists. Having thorough knowledge about these animals is a must. The invertebrates are sensitive to water changes and require pristine conditions to stay in good shape. Failing to meet their needs can result in early death and damage to the tank environment as a whole. Yes, getting caught in a power head is a concern but rarely occurs.
The most important thing you’ll need to take care of before you bring your anemone home is perfecting the tank and water conditions. You should never place an anemone into a tank you just set up.
Take some time to get parameters just right and let the closed environment cycle for a few months. This ensures that conditions are stable and safe. Anemones prefer warmer temperatures. Water should be on the alkali side as well. Monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be undetectable at all times using a good quality test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.
  • Water temperature: Between 77°F and 82°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
  • pH level: 8.1 to 8.4
  • Water hardness: 8 to 12 dKH
  • Specific gravity: 1.024 to 1.025
  • Nitrate < .5
When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your new Bubble Tip Anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
If it starts to move towards any coral, simply direct your water jets to the coral. This will discourage the anemone from anchoring near it. It will move to another area to attach.
Lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to truly thrive because they’re photosynthetic. Basically, that means that they absorb light to make food and grow. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Many aquarists agree that too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your jets at the anemone. The creatures enjoy subtle movement at all times. But too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.
Lastly- Feeding.
Anemone feeding is one of the easiest parts of their care. These animals get food from a lot of different sources. As mentioned earlier, they are photosynthetic and use light to create food. They will also eat food off of the fish they host. These anemones enjoy small morsels of shrimp and squid. They will also accept many frozen foods. To feed the anemone, attach the food to a stick or large tweezers. Then, touch the anemone with it. The creature will use its tentacles to grab onto the food and consume it. twice a week feedings is ample.
 
Okay, it's not dead, but it *is* expelling zooxanthellae at a concerning rate.

What type of light do you have? What other corals are kept in the tank? How often are you feeding it?
I have x AI Prime HD lights here is my schedule:

I have two types of palythoas, GSP, a big kenya tree, two types of hammers, two of the same Florida richoreas, and a toadstool.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_21579B792283-1.jpeg
    IMG_21579B792283-1.jpeg
    71.6 KB · Views: 25
Placement is quite important as is light and water flow. They’re not as easy to own as many people think. Thanks to the symbiotic relationship they form with certain fish, they are a joy to watch and care for. This species splits and propagates very easily in the right conditions, resulting in large captive populations.
The length of the tentacles can vary. The same goes for the size and shape of the bulb. With some specimens, the bulb is accompanied by a small tip. Interestingly enough, the tentacles can change based on the anemone’s environment. Below the splay of tentacles is the anemone’s foot. The foot is delicate. Yet, it has simple muscle fibers that help the creature move and anchor onto rocks.
Many new and seasoned aquarists dream of owning these invertebrates. But proper anemone care requires a bit of work to keep these creatures healthy! In short, we usually don’t recommend them for first-time aquarists. Having thorough knowledge about these animals is a must. The invertebrates are sensitive to water changes and require pristine conditions to stay in good shape. Failing to meet their needs can result in early death and damage to the tank environment as a whole. Yes, getting caught in a power head is a concern but rarely occurs.
The most important thing you’ll need to take care of before you bring your anemone home is perfecting the tank and water conditions. You should never place an anemone into a tank you just set up.
Take some time to get parameters just right and let the closed environment cycle for a few months. This ensures that conditions are stable and safe. Anemones prefer warmer temperatures. Water should be on the alkali side as well. Monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be undetectable at all times using a good quality test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.
  • Water temperature: Between 77°F and 82°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
  • pH level: 8.1 to 8.4
  • Water hardness: 8 to 12 dKH
  • Specific gravity: 1.024 to 1.025
  • Nitrate < .5
When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your new Bubble Tip Anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
If it starts to move towards any coral, simply direct your water jets to the coral. This will discourage the anemone from anchoring near it. It will move to another area to attach.
Lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to truly thrive because they’re photosynthetic. Basically, that means that they absorb light to make food and grow. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Many aquarists agree that too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your jets at the anemone. The creatures enjoy subtle movement at all times. But too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.
Lastly- Feeding.
Anemone feeding is one of the easiest parts of their care. These animals get food from a lot of different sources. As mentioned earlier, they are photosynthetic and use light to create food. They will also eat food off of the fish they host. These anemones enjoy small morsels of shrimp and squid. They will also accept many frozen foods. To feed the anemone, attach the food to a stick or large tweezers. Then, touch the anemone with it. The creature will use its tentacles to grab onto the food and consume it. twice a week feedings is ample.
Wow, thank you. That was a lot of info on nems that I didn't know about. About feeding the nem, I tried feeding it some finely diced raw shrimp and it seemed to completely ignore it. About a month ago I fed it half of that same raw shrimp and it seemed to really like it. What should I do? Should I keep trying to feed it the shrimp or stick with the Benepets?
 
Wow, thank you. That was a lot of info on nems that I didn't know about. About feeding the nem, I tried feeding it some finely diced raw shrimp and it seemed to completely ignore it. About a month ago I fed it half of that same raw shrimp and it seemed to really like it. What should I do? Should I keep trying to feed it the shrimp or stick with the Benepets?
Nope- Feed mysis shrimp or small plankton.
Shrimp would be for a large carpet anemone such as Hadoni
 
Nope- Feed mysis shrimp or small plankton.
Shrimp would be for a large carpet anemone such as Hadoni
I don't have mysis or plankton at my disposal currently. I was thinking about purchasing Coral Nutrition AB+ for my corals, do you think that I could use that to feed the nem?
 
I don't have mysis or plankton at my disposal currently. I was thinking about purchasing Coral Nutrition AB+ for my corals, do you think that I could use that to feed the nem?
No for anemone . Even a squirt of frozen brine shrimp will work
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top