Possum wrasse delivery looking very rough

Here is the sticky from @Humblefish

 
Acclimation is as essential as qurantining. Its the only way to equalizing PH- salinity- temp and pre-introducing fish to new environment. Run a poll and you'll get 20 different versions of how people acclimate their new specimen.
Ive been in hobby 36 years and rarely to ever QT although advised. When I had my pet store, I acclimated all fish livestock - Both FW and SW.
I agree on salinity match prior to introduction.
My own method for acclimation is :
Floating
Transferring fish and water into bucket

Then . . . .

Add a cup of tank water to bucket every 15 mins 7-8 times (almost 2 hours)
Then check salinity in bucket and compare to tank. If no match or very close, add a cup of water every few mins until you've reached salinity and trap fish in large cup and pour off water and release into display. Doing so under LOW light before lights out.
 
It's almost impossible to buffer RODI. Tap water is really difficult in a small container. A drop here and there and you start over. I'm on the RODI side with a squirt. I have not seen any ill effects. Yes, I have personally saved fish using RODI with a squirt.
Okay, just one last reply b/c that’s actually not true — I use RO/DI that is remineralized and buffered using seachem products for my FW planted tank. And many FW shrimp keepers do the same using a product called salty shrimp.
 
Acclimation is as essential as qurantining. Its the only way to equalizing PH- salinity- temp and pre-introducing fish to new environment. Run a poll and you'll get 20 different versions of how people acclimate their new specimen.
Ive been in hobby 36 years and rarely to ever QT although advised. When I had my pet store, I acclimated all fish livestock - Both FW and SW.
I agree on salinity match prior to introduction.
My own method for acclimation is :
Floating
Transferring fish and water into bucket

Then . . . .

Add a cup of tank water to bucket every 15 mins 7-8 times (almost 2 hours)
Then check salinity in bucket and compare to tank. If no match or very close, add a cup of water every few mins until you've reached salinity and trap fish in large cup and pour off water and release into display. Doing so under LOW light before lights out.

Okay, just one last reply b/c that’s actually not true — I use RO/di that is remineraluzed and buffered using seachem products for my FW planted tank. And many FW shrimp keepers do the same using a product called salty shrimp.
Fantastic! Go save that little guy!
 
So I don’t think I will pull and dip him yet or tonight, pretty sure the stress at the moment will put him under, he’s barely hanging on… I’ll see if I can attach a vid
He shipped super rough, and I have been concerned since he arrived. He does swim every now and then to a new location and sit still. Blues on only at low try and keep him calm
 
Also my wife keeps fw so we do have good fw ready to go if needed
 
Lemme know if this works, thx again for all the responses so far
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0839.MOV
    31 MB
Lemme know if this works, thx again for all the responses so far
Sorry, I missed the videos on my iPhone, but now I can see get them on my laptop -- I can never see them in Safari. Poor little guy, did he make it through the night? If so and he's still doing poorly I would post to the fish disease section so folks can help diagnose.

Otherwise, I went through a scare w/one of my fish recently after I was a bit too aggressive w/tank cleaning. He was behaving similarly and then recovered somewhat w/in a few hours, and was perfectly normal the next day. Sometimes little guys can be extra sensitive to environmental changes -- sometimes that can kill them, other times they just need some time and a peaceful environment to adjust and recover.
 
Still dark here and don’t want to shine the light in the tank to intensenly… bit didnt see a body, although this tank would disappear him real quick too.
Think he might still be kicking? He would move locations every 10-15 min and go sit somewhere else, but movement wasn’t fluid at all. Always hard to watch our lil buddies struggle, but he just didn’t ship well
 
Still dark here and don’t want to shine the light in the tank to intensenly… bit didnt see a body, although this tank would disappear him real quick too.
Think he might still be kicking? He would move locations every 10-15 min and go sit somewhere else, but movement wasn’t fluid at all. Always hard to watch our lil buddies struggle, but he just didn’t ship well
I'm going to hope he found a spot to hide in for the night and will turn up, but I know it's possible he didn't make it.
 
Thx for the help and support always appreciated…. He didn’t make it, back to searching for a yellow stripe
 
I really hate the term acclimate. In my humble opinion, a fish should never be 'acclimated' in the traditional sense. Let me explain. When I get a new fish, I put the fish in a holding tank. I then read the salinity of the water IN THE FISH BAG and adjust the salinity of the holding tank to the fish bag water. When the salinity is the same, I wait an hour or so for temperature and then release the fish.

It's in a holding tank...I want it in my display? Well, I let the water evaporate or I add RODI slowly over days until it's the same levels of the display.
This is what I have started doing. I call the company to ask about shipping salinity and prepare 1-2G of fresh saltwater. After temp acclimation, I use a syringe filled with prime to bind ammonia and get a water sample to confirm salinity and pH. If all is good, the fish is transferred to fresh water for acclimation. If the shipping salinity is more than 2 points different from my DT (e.g., 1.017 v. 1.025), the fish is acclimated to my DT salinity over 1-1.5 weeks, no more than 1 point change per day. I've had no deaths since adopting this method.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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