Potassium nitrate (Spectracide stump remover) dosing steps

That looks like a list of things I've tried for chryo. I've all but broken the tank down and restarted. 35% H2O2 seemingly has no affect on it. High flow, it just becomes opaque white and hangs on for dear life. Low flow, darker brown and longer strands.
 
Been ULN (pale SPS, lead me to this thread). Tried dirty tank, lost SPS.

I think it's bacteria.
 
Yeah I don't know where these ideas come up from. They don't work lol
 
Been ULN (pale SPS, lead me to this thread). Tried dirty tank, lost SPS.

I think it's bacteria.
Man..Same as. My Sps bleached. Still got polyps but look like a stick man version of Casper.

Dosing nitrate now.
 
Googled it. Its algae. Looks pretty under scope.
 
Quote

. They are not considered truly autotrophic by some biologists because nearly all chrysophytes become facultatively heterotrophic in the absence of adequate light, or in the presence of plentiful dissolved food. When this occurs, the chrysoplast atrophies and the alga may turn predator, feeding on bacteria or diatoms.
 
Start distributing!
 
Been ULN (pale SPS, lead me to this thread). Tried dirty tank, lost SPS.

I think it's bacteria.

From your video, you are starving your corals dosing too much bacteria or "X" products. How large is your system, and how many fishs do you have?
 
I don't want any in my tank ta. It is clear of anything that remotely looks like an **** on speed. ;)

The others might want some though. Nice linked here. Seriously all in the name of science.

Good luck fella.
 
From your video, you are starving your corals dosing too much bacteria or "X" products. How large is your system, and how many fishs do you have?

I agree, I was starving them. I had undetectable levels of PO4 and NO3. I have a 45g tank (~58g total system), currently have one wrasse. I only recently started messing around with bacteria dosing (Dr. Tim's, Vibrant) and I'm making sure to keep my nutrient levels detectable during the process. Coloration and growth is taking off.
 
I agree, I was starving them. I had undetectable levels of PO4 and NO3. I have a 45g tank (~58g total system), currently have one wrasse. I only recently started messing around with bacteria dosing (Dr. Tim's, Vibrant) and I'm making sure to keep my nutrient levels detectable during the process. Coloration and growth is taking off.

No need to dose bacteria if your tank is already low in nutrients. You can tell just by looking at your rock, it's covered in bacteria.

Start by taking the more natural approach, add more fishs or feed your corals. It's fun. :)
 
No need to dose bacteria if your tank is already low in nutrients. You can tell just by looking at your rock, it's covered in bacteria.

Start by taking the more natural approach, add more fishs or feed your corals. It's fun. :)
I'm dosing bacteria because I'm manually removing a lot of the chryo. I want something there to compete for resources - if I just remove it and do nothing, it will come back. I've tried doing nothing, many, many times. This stuff is resilient.
 
I'm dosing bacteria because I'm manually removing a lot of the chryo. I want something there to compete for resources - if I just remove it and do nothing, it will come back. I've tried doing nothing, many, many times. This stuff is resilient.

Are you using dry rock?
I've only seen something similar during the first year or so with dry rock. What I did was basically, manually try to remove as much as possible by hand and brush followed by water change. Check your source water as well. But, my guess is, it's your rock.
 
Are you using dry rock?
I've only seen something similar during the first year or so with dry rock. What I did was basically, manually try to remove as much as possible by hand and brush followed by water change. Check your source water as well. But, my guess is, it's your rock.

Yes, I started completely dead/dry with this build. Water coming out of my RODI system is 0 TDS, I have a 6 stage, BRS system.
 
So I have 0 nitrate for a while couple of my sps are dull. So saw this thread and decided to try first dose was last might. Did 4ml check about an hour later and finally had detectable nitrates. Have about 30 gallon tank with sump. Going to up it just a little tonight after seeing what it is tonight. Just glad to find this thread.
 
I'm taking a sample over to a local college and having a fellow reefer microbiologist take a look and identify what I have. If there are dinos living with the chrysophytes symbiotically, I'll be doing a treatment of metroplex to try and stop them from reproducing. If the dinos are providing the #chrysophytes with nutrients, disrupting that relationship hopefully will kill them off. I'm attempting Vibrant Aquarium Cleaner at the same time, so I hope the 1-2-3 punch of killing off their food supply, physical removal, and vibrant bacteria will be too much for them.

Yes, I'd rather have dinos or cyano at this point. I've dealt with outbreaks of both in previous tanks. They're both easier to deal with than this stuff, imo.

Nitrate dosing will do it in either case.....but it's awesome if you will actually get a positive ID!!! Post pics and a movie from their microscope if possible! :)

I'm serious on the nitrate dosing though....since there's no real downside if you dose conservatively, I wouldn't wait. :)

Metro definitely has some downsides. IMO Vibrant is even a bit severe, but I'd surely try that before a drug like metro.

I'd give at least six months to nitrate dosing and system stabilizing before I did either of those. (Don't think it'd take that long to see results though.)

 
Nitrate dosing will do it in either case.....but it's awesome if you will actually get a positive ID!!! Post pics and a movie from their microscope if possible! :)

I'm serious on the nitrate dosing though....since there's no real downside if you dose conservatively, I wouldn't wait. :)

Metro definitely has some downsides. IMO Vibrant is even a bit severe, but I'd surely try that before a drug like metro.

I'd give at least six months to nitrate dosing and system stabilizing before I did either of those. (Don't think it'd take that long to see results though.)


I documented everything here -

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/c...fy-treat-and-remove-it-from-your-tank.299585/

Didn't want to wait another six months with this slime, was at the point where I was considering breaking the tank down to tackle this crud. So far, so good.
 
Been ULN (pale SPS, lead me to this thread). Tried dirty tank, lost SPS.

I think it's bacteria.

Do you have a thread where you documented this by chance?

Nice to come to this thread for the formula, the calculator and for updates, but troubleshooting the application to your tank is much easier in your own thread.

(Or you're welcome to PM me and I can go through it with you there....doesn't matter to me. :) )
 
Started to dose the Spectracide two week ago. Running a Zeovit system, was always at not detectable levels of no3.
Keeping no3 for 2 weeks now at the level of 1-2.5ppm. At this moment no any visible changes in the colors or anything.
 

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