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I also feel that this is a bad case of ich. I agree with the proposed treatment plan.
 
That’s definitely velvet I agree it’ll need copper or CP quickly.
 
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Mjrenz said:
He doesn't have a qt now, do you recommend a fwd and returning to the DT until he gets it?
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Not a bad idea... but if it’s velvet, relief will be extremely temporary so it’s best to get the QT rolling ASAP. I kind of feel it could be a bad case of ich, but I’m admittedly not so great at telling the difference when it’s this bad. Either way, the sheer number of spots puts you on a short time-line for treatment, unfortunately.
 
Honestly look into getting a quarantine tank it is a very wise investment in this hobby and it can be used many times and will keep your display tank very healthy. I would advise getting a 30 gallon tank for quarantine since you have some larger fish such as tangs. Copper seems to be the best treatment for ich. There are really no safe ways to get rid of ich in a reef tank. You will want to quarantine all your fish so that the parasite will die go fishless in the display tank for 6 weeks and in the mean time treat the fish in quarantine. And from then on any new fish quarantine them so you know for sure that you won’t be re introducing ich into your display tank
 
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One question i have a 30 or 35 gallon tank I am not sure of it's exact size. My question is how do the fish do in the QT tank for 6 weeks? My DT is 180 g currently I have a large raccoon butterfly, 2 clowns, Koran Angel, 2 pajamas, 2 squirrel fish. I am worried they will be crowded in the QT for 6 wks?
 
ktisdale22 said:
One question i have a 30 or 35 gallon tank I am not sure of it's exact size. My question is how do the fish do in the QT tank for 6 weeks? My DT is 180 g currently I have a large raccoon butterfly, 2 clowns, Koran Angel, 2 pajamas, 2 squirrel fish. I am worried they will be crowded in the QT for 6 wks?
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Yea the angel and the tang would make it crowded because they are large. I have heard a good rule of thumb is 30% of you dt for a hospital tank. So you would need like a 55 gallon. It’s a great concern because if the fish were to stress out it could lead to even more issues. Maybe someone with more insight can chime in. The only other thing you could do is put the known infected tang in quarantine and keep a close eye on the other fish for any signs of ich. If you do go that route I would suggest getting Sea chem cupramine and get a test kit to test the copper levels. Another thing about hospital tanks are you don’t want ammonia levels to spike so on my 10gallon I just have a heater and hang on aqueon filter i put a piece of dry rock in it and a couple of pvc elbows from homedepot for fish to hide in. I do frequent water changes so ammonia stays down you don’t want the tank to cycle. So after my second feeding I suck out all the left over food and fish waste.

When my fish got ich for the first time I started noticing it on the fins first before it progressed.
 
So I can't catch my fish, they just go into the reef. A fish trap will take to long I'm afraid. None of my corals are attached to a place where I can't move them. What is your opinion on moving the corals to another tank at my LFS. I could grab all the snails I can (don't have crabs) the only thing that will be in danger are my xenia's and they are a PITA anyway. Maybe a couple of random mushrooms but that would be it.
 
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You do not want to run copper in your dt, the sand and live rock will absorb it and you likely won't be able to keep another coral or invert alive in the future. It would also be nearly impossible to maintain therapeutic levels as the porus materials are constantly absorbing the copper from the water column
 
I agree with this as well:
ngoodermuth said:
Not a bad idea... but if it’s velvet, relief will be extremely temporary so it’s best to get the QT rolling ASAP. I kind of feel it could be a bad case of ich, but I’m admittedly not so great at telling the difference when it’s this bad. Either way, the sheer number of spots puts you on a short time-line for treatment, unfortunately.
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Does a QT have to cycle before it will be safe for anything. Do you think there is time for that. I could do that for the future but for now I need to do something else. I have read where some ick treatments have worked for some and not for others. Products like kick ick have good and bad reviews. At what point do you try it to see if it will work.
 
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Keith Russell said:
Does a QT have to cycle before it will be safe for anything. Do you think there is time for that. I could do that for the future but for now I need to do something else. I have read where some ick treatments have worked for some and not for others. Products like kick ick have good and bad reviews. At what point do you try it to see if it will work.
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You do not need to cycle it. All a qt should be is a tank, water, and pvc tubing for them to hide in. I would also get an ammonia badge and have water for water changes. Something less risky than copper is tank transfer method, but you go through a lot of water, and it is more hands on.
 
AS

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%

  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%

  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%

  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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