I just got in a discussion with my roommate about the need for powerheads in a 55 gallon tank. I admit I'm very much a novice, but I was under the impression that if you had a properly sized return pump from your sump, and positioned your inlet and outlet holes you didn't need powerheads. I'm a minimalist and really don't want a lot of equipment in my DT. Someone feel free to put me in my place and "school me" on the idiocracies of my argument. All flames are welcome
Powerheads a requirement?
- Thread starter theronin
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It all depends on what you are looking to do with your tank. Most SPS corals are going to need more flow than your return pump alone will provide. Additionally, corals in general seem to appreciate randomized flow. This will assist in the suspension of detritus in the water column so that it can be exported to your filter. Randomized flow is better handled by wavemaker type pumps (Vortec MP, Jebao RW & WP, and the like).
Zero Nitrates
I love chalices
IMO coral like to have more flow soft, LPS and SPS.
Daniel@R2R
Living the Reef Life
Yep. A closed-loop system runs without powerheads. You'd generally need more than a return pump though bc a return pump powerful enough to give flow to the whole tank would most likely move water too quickly through the sump IMHO.
Powerheads draw a couple of watts and move massive amounts of water in a nice dispersed pattern. The return pump probably draws 50-60 watts or much more and moves only 3-5 times the volume of the display for most people and in a more narrow or concentrated stream. Very different uses and purposes. The return is to circulate water down to and back from the sump where you can do things like skim, add reactors, and maybe a filter sock or sponge if that is your thing. A powerhead circulates internally in the display regardless of what the sump and return are doing.
A closed loop is much like a powerhead with the exception it usually uses a much larger return style pump at at much higher power consumption. I had a closed loop on my 100G originally but ditched it for more efficient powerheads now that you can get them very small and controllable for more random flows and currents. Went from 68 watts to move 1000 GPH to around 12 watts to move 3000+ GPH. No brainer for me.
A closed loop is much like a powerhead with the exception it usually uses a much larger return style pump at at much higher power consumption. I had a closed loop on my 100G originally but ditched it for more efficient powerheads now that you can get them very small and controllable for more random flows and currents. Went from 68 watts to move 1000 GPH to around 12 watts to move 3000+ GPH. No brainer for me.
gtbarsi
Well-Known Member
The return pump's purpose is to drive the flow through the sump. Sump flow is intended to provide filtering processes. The main filtration process in the sump would be your skimmer and it is designed to draw a certain amount of water & air. There is no point in forcing a lot more flow through your sump than your skimmer can process since it is not getting cleaned. Personally I like to have 3xDT/hr flow through my sump and have my skimmer matched to draw just about the same.
General flow in the DT should be around 10x the DT, and Power heads are the most efficient way to do this. This not only suspends particles in the water column for corals but also so that it can be skimmed by your overflow and cleaned out of your system before it can settle in to your sand and break down creating a lot of excess nutrients you have to dilute with water changes.
At the moment I think the Jebao power heads are the most cost effective and on a 55gallon tank a single WP25 would be more than enough.
General flow in the DT should be around 10x the DT, and Power heads are the most efficient way to do this. This not only suspends particles in the water column for corals but also so that it can be skimmed by your overflow and cleaned out of your system before it can settle in to your sand and break down creating a lot of excess nutrients you have to dilute with water changes.
At the moment I think the Jebao power heads are the most cost effective and on a 55gallon tank a single WP25 would be more than enough.
Poweheads are not a requirment.
Given the fact that you have sufficient flow from any said return pump or pumps. Usually a return pump form a sump is not nearly enough, considering you want 10x the DT volume in flow in a FOWLR, and over 20x DT volume for a Reef. Using external pumps with accelerators on them helps with this.
Given the fact that you have sufficient flow from any said return pump or pumps. Usually a return pump form a sump is not nearly enough, considering you want 10x the DT volume in flow in a FOWLR, and over 20x DT volume for a Reef. Using external pumps with accelerators on them helps with this.
Waters
"...in perfect isolation, here behind my wall."
Definately not a requirement....you just need water movement (how much is dependent on factors such as livestock, placement of rocks, etc.) That movement can come from powerheads, sump returns, or you standing there with a stick stirring the water 
ReeferRookie
Well-Known Member
A good flow is extremely important. In a reef or even with certain fish. Reserch based off of your needs specifically
an1mal
New Member
A good flow is the most important and should be provided in every water column. I'm on the other side of this thread. I don't use any filtration what so ever in my tank except for 3 power heads for circulation. No frequent water changes either. Only change 20% of the water every 4-5 months or so and my animals are happy as can be. 35 gal softie reef.
ReeferRookie
Well-Known Member
In a 55 ur gonna need a power head .... A sump return just doesnt turn enough water on the lower end of the tank
prime8reef
Active Member
I disagree with those that say you cannot have good flow with the return pump from your sump.
I use just the return pump on both my tasks, 20long and 55long, and create agyre flow much like the flow advertised by a certain new style powerhead out on the market.
The trick is to go one up, or depending on your overflow, two up on the gph rating on the return pump. In my 20long I use a rio1400 with a hard-piped(1/2" thin walled pvc) return. The line then follows a couple 90° turns and exits a spray bar that sends water across the length of the tank and flows downward at the far end, returning back creating a gyre flow. The same on my 55g but I use a mag 7.
Basically whichever is the highest rated pump that your overflow can handle is best as you will have more flow and believe me, it is equal if not superior to having a collage of powerhead in your tank.
You can rotate the spray bar upwards a bit to create more surface agitation and get more of a gyre going also.
With fish swimming in and out of the flow, and depending on your rock scape, random and chaotic currents CAN be recreated.
I've run my tanks like this for months now and love the fact that I just have one pipe in one end of my tank instead of multiple powerheads
I use just the return pump on both my tasks, 20long and 55long, and create agyre flow much like the flow advertised by a certain new style powerhead out on the market.
The trick is to go one up, or depending on your overflow, two up on the gph rating on the return pump. In my 20long I use a rio1400 with a hard-piped(1/2" thin walled pvc) return. The line then follows a couple 90° turns and exits a spray bar that sends water across the length of the tank and flows downward at the far end, returning back creating a gyre flow. The same on my 55g but I use a mag 7.
Basically whichever is the highest rated pump that your overflow can handle is best as you will have more flow and believe me, it is equal if not superior to having a collage of powerhead in your tank.
You can rotate the spray bar upwards a bit to create more surface agitation and get more of a gyre going also.
With fish swimming in and out of the flow, and depending on your rock scape, random and chaotic currents CAN be recreated.
I've run my tanks like this for months now and love the fact that I just have one pipe in one end of my tank instead of multiple powerheads
prime8reef
Active Member
Inside right side
Back of tank. ½" thin walled pvc. Thin walled pvc will allow more water to flow through
Water surface. Hold in pvc are about ¼" apart and spray bar is pointed upwards about 45° from horizontal
prime8reef
Active Member
I'll try and shoot a video showing my flow and the corals in action. I get random flow from my rockscape combined with the gyre type current.
My 20 long is an sps dominant tank. And the polyps on my corals flap in the current, my gsp and anthelia sway back and forth. I love it. The only downside is waiting for coralline algae to encrust the blazing white pvc pipe, lol
My 20 long is an sps dominant tank. And the polyps on my corals flap in the current, my gsp and anthelia sway back and forth. I love it. The only downside is waiting for coralline algae to encrust the blazing white pvc pipe, lol
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This is exactly what I was thinking. Alot of out of the box thinking and some diy brilliance. My boys argument was, "well what happens when you want to throw a bunch of coral and anemones into your tank, you are gonna need to adjust water flow". I said, that's not how this works, this is a stable environment that will mature with time and patience. I won't be moving stuff around to make room for new stuff.
ReeferRookie
Well-Known Member
But with a back hang filter like used in here hell never have enough flow to support coral growth
ReeferRookie
Well-Known Member
Nvm whoops was reading another forum. Judging on the size or ur return pump your could get enough flow. But with a larger and lager tank flow becomes more and more important can it be achieved yes. Is it better to go with a good power head probably
The biggest problem with using the return pump is you need a sump large enough to be able to function properly with the increased velocity or flow. Sumps work better at lower velocities so you have the detention time in the sump for the skimmer to function properly, for detritus to settle out and for microbubbles to dissipate before being returned to the display. if your sump is equal in size or larger than your display it works fine, if you have a 100G display and a 20G sump then not so good. Powerheads or a closed loop would be a much better option in that case so you can maintain low flow in the sump and your skimmer works as designed.
Also don't confuse flow with velocity. Small drilled holes in a spray bar give you velocity as the water jets out but you restrict the flow (GPH) since the openings are restricted. A similar situation is comparing the old style Maxijet powerheads to todays propeller type powerheads. The MJ has a 1/2" nozzle and shoots water clear across the display while the Jebao, Seio, Koralia, Tunze, MP or whatever spreads the flow out in a wider pattern. The MJ is only moving 292 GPH buit seems much more. The Jebao or whatever is moving 2000-3000+ GPH but seems much less since the pattern is dispersed.
Also don't confuse flow with velocity. Small drilled holes in a spray bar give you velocity as the water jets out but you restrict the flow (GPH) since the openings are restricted. A similar situation is comparing the old style Maxijet powerheads to todays propeller type powerheads. The MJ has a 1/2" nozzle and shoots water clear across the display while the Jebao, Seio, Koralia, Tunze, MP or whatever spreads the flow out in a wider pattern. The MJ is only moving 292 GPH buit seems much more. The Jebao or whatever is moving 2000-3000+ GPH but seems much less since the pattern is dispersed.
