Preparing my attack need reactor recommendation.

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So I've identified my algae problem as a serious Dino outback, and some other algae not as annoying. Anyway I have been siphoning out the Dino's, but plan to wrap tank as well for a few days. I have no phosphates detected, but still feel adding a GFO and carbon reactor might be in order. It's a 90 gallon mixed reef with a 40 gallon sump. I was thinking of getting the dual reactor from bulk reef supply. Any experience, success,pitfalls that you know of I would appreciate hearing about. Also saw a filter pad in a search on the boards for fighting Dino's, that I might add as well. I'm a the extremely frustrated point with these blooms and would like to solve for good, so I can remember what it's like to have nice white sand.


Any pointers or tips appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
I remember reading about h202 hydrogen peroxide being used for dino might want to look into that and research

KCCO now Free
 
If your tank is new it's just part of the cycle. If you keep up water quality and changes then it should go away on its own. You can add GFO and a carbon reactor but it is probably not needed. Shouldn't hurt but not an expense you have to take. I had an outbreak after I siphoned my sand during a cleaning. About two weeks later it was gone. It's annoying when it's there but I'd say underreacting to it is the best cure, plus time. GL!
 
You definitely want to run carbon, run your skimmer at max, and cover your tank for three days to fight the dinos. You say you've studied it, so I won't add the links unless you ask me to.

I use the BRS carbon/GFO reactor and I can tell you that's it's best to start with half the amount they recommend. Hooking up a GFO/carbon reactor at full strength can have devastating effects on your tank. I now use small amounts and change the media every three weeks. It has helped a lot, but you can easily reduce your nitrates to 0 and believe me your corals won't like it, especially your LPS or softies.
 
Take a look at the Spectrapure dual reactor. It has advantages over other in that it has a wye and individual control valves so you can control the flows individually or take one out of service without affecting the other.
Really though, for a 90G display you don't need that big of a reactor, you will only run a maximum of 90 grams or about 9 level teaspoons of GFO full dosage so it does not require a large chamber or high flows. I have a 100G and use the Phosban 150 reactors, one for GFO and one for activated carbon, both fed by one MJ powerhead and with the same tee or wye feeding them and individual valves. The chambers hold up to 150 grams easily but I run a maximum of 50 grams 24/7/365 once phosphates are under control. Its a preventive measure or a maintenance dose only.

Never use BRS recommendations on GFO amounts, they recommend much more than ANY other vendor, most with much more experience on the subject and large labs to back them up. I love and use their chemicals but don't always follw their directions since there are better, sound, directions elsewhere. Can't beat their prices and service though.
 
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It is an established tank. It has been set up for about 10 years.

In a tank that old, I would be looking for some common root causes vs treating the symptoms.

There's a strong chance that either your sand or rocks (or maybe both) are loaded with detritus and providing a slow, steady source of nutrients - nothing leftover for a test kit to detect most likely. I would also consider boosting alkalinity a bit in the mean time if you're keeping it anywhere south of 10 dKH.

Swizzle your finger or something around in the sand bed in likely spots: bases of rocks, underneath flow sources like power heads, etc. Also, use a power head or turkey baster to thoroughly blast the rocks.

If you find detritus in the rocks, but not the sand, then once you get the rocks cleaned up, simply improving flow in the tank may be enough to prevent it happening again (or make it happen even slower).

If you find anything in the sand, I'd recommend siphoning out the whole sand bed over the course of four or five water changes. It's optional whether you replace it, but if you do I'd make it 1" deep or less and also do something to increase the flow in the tank. Personally I like bare bottom if there's any chance of the sand getting fouled.

If that doesn't immediately eliminate the algae/dinos then a treatment of Chemiclean (similar chemical to H2O2) might be called for to finish it off.

Hope this helps!

-Matt

P.S. What salt are you currently using, and was there by any chance a recent change?
 
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Thanks for all the replies everyone. I really appreciate the insight. The tape is now covered...lights are all unplugged until Sunday night or so. I've got my fingers crossed. Ordering a GFO reactor, and a carbon reactor. Added an air stone and going to keep the skimmer running all the time until the tank is uncovered.

There is definitely a lot of detritus in the rocks. Been trying to blow it off and symphon it off, will continue when tank is uncovered. Hoping that this will give me the upper hand, and I'll be able to enjoy white sand and clean rocks someday soon. I definitely see how Dino's make people want to give up. All you time is spent trying to fight it....and not enjoying the tank. I will keep you posted. Again I can't thank you enough for the info.
 
Seems so weird not having the nice halide glow of the tank while it is wrapped. I'm very anxious to see how everything looks tomorrow when I open it back up. Fingers crossed everything survives....except the Dino's of course.
 
Well everyone was alive....haven't see the yellow wrasse yet. Might still be catching some z's in the sand. Sand bed looked nice and white....Put the lights on for about an hour, and it looked like it started to grow right back. Going to do a big water change tonight, since there is now detritus all over. Hoping the GFO and Carbon reactor help.
 

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