Problems with Euphyllia

Interesting... This tank does suffer from detritus build up when I feed a lot to get nitrate up, its very difficult to get things right in a nano ... Im currently setting up a 60 gallon frag tank and hopefully I won't fall into the same traps as with my current tank.
You could try nitrate and phosphate dosing or something like amino acids or Red Sea nutrition
 
Before you siphon out all of the detritus turn off the skimmer and return and blow it around the tank with a powerhead to where it is suspended in the water column so your corals can feed off of it. I try to blow the detritus off the rocks daily with a turkey baster before the light come on. My corals love it

09BD4102-6FE2-4DF6-984E-81B6876308F1.jpeg
 
I guess I am the only newbie here surprised that you WANT nitrates in the tank that the macro algae doesn't take care of? Starting to look at my massive ball of macro in my 125's fuge in a new light now lol. Also to the OP, have you tried observing your tank under moonlight to see if any nasty critters are lurking around after lights out?
 
I guess I am the only newbie here surprised that you WANT nitrates in the tank that the macro algae doesn't take care of? Starting to look at my massive ball of macro in my 125's fuge in a new light now lol. Also to the OP, have you tried observing your tank under moonlight to see if any nasty critters are lurking around after lights out?
Yes nitrates and phosphates are food. Without food corals starve. Some people run a ULNS but dose some form of food supplements such as amino acids or something similar which changes the color of the corals and take on an almost pastel color in appearance
 
Yes nitrates and phosphates are food. Without food corals starve. Some people run a ULNS but dose some form of food supplements such as amino acids or something similar which changes the color of the corals and take on an almost pastel color in appearance

Not sure how I feel about this knowing the "Reef Food" (not the phyto) is literally probably just nitrates and phosphates lol. Other than someone was a marketing genius at $24.99 a bottle.
 
Not sure how I feel about this knowing the "Reef Food" (not the phyto) is literally probably just nitrates and phosphates lol. Other than someone was a marketing genius at $24.99 a bottle.
How long has your tank been running and could you post some pictures? I have a hard time keeping nitrate and phosphate up and have to feed more on the heavier side to achieve and have learned that when my nitrate and phosphate start to approach undetectable my corals get upset

Phyto is great I culture it myself as well as rodifers and brine. All of my filter feeders love it such as my clams sponges coco worms and feather dusters and it is great to keep my phosphate levels up. I also use it to feed my pods brine and other zooplankton I culture
 
ok so the gold torch is looking awful today and I'm 99% certain its going to die... the flesh is sloughing off the skeleton not good at all. so there was a bad interpretation on one of my tests my phosphate is actually .10mg/l i retested today and my nitrate is at 1-2 ppm and my alk is 9.6 down from 11.5 on april 17th so yeah not good my dose (which i just set up in a new place) had air bubbles that kept it from dosing the proper amount hence why my alk dropped a bit. what do you guys think?
 
Aussie Gold failures are pretty high percentage I believe. I've had 2 and they both died. I have about 20 torches (mostly indo) in my tank that have tolerated wide ranges of nitrates and phosphates as well as various placements (different lighting, flow, etc..).
 
Aussie Gold failures are pretty high percentage I believe. I've had 2 and they both died. I have about 20 torches (mostly indo) in my tank that have tolerated wide ranges of nitrates and phosphates as well as various placements (different lighting, flow, etc..).
welppppp the gold torch turned into a white ball of goo within 14 hours so i removed it to for the well being of my tank, there goes $400.... that torch was so healthy for so long i didn't think this could happen so quickly all of my other torch and hammers and octos are doing great.
 
How long has your tank been running and could you post some pictures? I have a hard time keeping nitrate and phosphate up and have to feed more on the heavier side to achieve and have learned that when my nitrate and phosphate start to approach undetectable my corals get upset

Phyto is great I culture it myself as well as rodifers and brine. All of my filter feeders love it such as my clams sponges coco worms and feather dusters and it is great to keep my phosphate levels up. I also use it to feed my pods brine and other zooplankton I culture

I just got back into the hobby after roughly a 10 year hiatus so my 125 is still cycling lol. Build thread
 
ok so the gold torch is looking awful today and I'm 99% certain its going to die... the flesh is sloughing off the skeleton not good at all. so there was a bad interpretation on one of my tests my phosphate is actually .10mg/l i retested today and my nitrate is at 1-2 ppm and my alk is 9.6 down from 11.5 on april 17th so yeah not good my dose (which i just set up in a new place) had air bubbles that kept it from dosing the proper amount hence why my alk dropped a bit. what do you guys think?
The phosphate although many would disagree is not that bad and many reefs run that way with no worries. The alk swing is more than likely related to the tissue necrosis. I lost one of my first hammer corals to an alk swing. I look at all of this high tech automation and want to try it so bad but I keep hearing mishaps like this and I am so scared to try. I want a gold so bad but so scared to loose it. I hear horror stories of them just going up in smoke even with no apparent reason. I am truly so sorry just hearing about your loss makes me feel as if I am loosing one as well
 
welppppp the gold torch turned into a white ball of goo within 14 hours so i removed it to for the well being of my tank, there goes $400.... that torch was so healthy for so long i didn't think this could happen so quickly all of my other torch and hammers and octos are doing great.
That is what I have heard several times all other corals are fine and then the gold decides to go and for no reason at all. My heart is heavy reading this I am so sorry you lost your gold torch
 
The phosphate although many would disagree is not that bad and many reefs run that way with no worries. The alk swing is more than likely related to the tissue necrosis. I lost one of my first hammer corals to an alk swing. I look at all of this high tech automation and want to try it so bad but I keep hearing mishaps like this and I am so scared to try. I want a gold so bad but so scared to loose it. I hear horror stories of them just going up in smoke even with no apparent reason. I am truly so sorry just hearing about your loss makes me feel as if I am loosing one as well
if your going to get a gold torch get the indonesian one preferably an aquaculture specimen because all of my other euphyllia is tank grown, makes sense its the wild collected one that dies.
 
if your going to get a gold torch get the indonesian one preferably an aquaculture specimen because all of my other euphyllia is tank grown, makes sense its the wild collected one that dies.
I firmly believe you speak words of wisdom. In the back of my mind lingers the possible truth to this and at times in the middle of the night I wake up to view the tank. Started the hobby in June of 2019 with a 10 gallon tank. All aquacultured corals. In December of 2019 I upgraded to a 70 gallon tank. In 2020 the indo ban was lifted. And I had to have real indo corals. I now own three wild goniopora pieces, two neon green wall hammers, a rainbow wall hammer, a gold wall hammer, a orange wall hammer, and five wild indo torches. Also decided I had to have a large sun coral colony. About two grand In wild indo coral is now in my tank. The paranoia is real. I now ask myself how long can I keep these frail corals who are not used to being in an artificial glass box with perimeters vastly different from what they call home? This is a picture of my tank that has corals that very well might not be here in a years time

6B6E30F0-2724-473E-9AF6-D9B0339AD8E6.jpeg 859A11FB-9C30-43B2-B4CD-22DDA1BD8A73.jpeg E3F3EB4A-A5F9-4A6C-AFD4-6E0A589E5536.jpeg 8A414DB6-5EF3-4469-AE94-19FFA4482BC7.jpeg B52355BC-E936-4896-A58B-6E63EBBEE8A8.jpeg 283CC61B-06FF-4556-8904-2329533565DA.jpeg D944F0D3-D0C2-47A5-BD87-6274581E3DBD.jpeg E1CCA0F2-0FB5-4BB5-8BF0-67007DD6D3FC.jpeg AA1897FC-7563-435A-8AFA-67CA2BD83A30.jpeg 80D2FDE9-8A7B-4313-B012-8F143CD0320A.jpeg 66D4358E-D330-4753-8742-B536874C945F.jpeg E7891208-5155-42B3-A6D6-CB5EAD69C206.jpeg 5B1431B9-A3C5-40A2-8C77-ED8E428D7501.jpeg
 
I firmly believe you speak words of wisdom. In the back of my mind lingers the possible truth to this and at times in the middle of the night I wake up to view the tank. Started the hobby in June of 2019 with a 10 gallon tank. All aquacultured corals. In December of 2019 I upgraded to a 70 gallon tank. In 2020 the indo ban was lifted. And I had to have real indo corals. I now own three wild goniopora pieces, two neon green wall hammers, a rainbow wall hammer, a gold wall hammer, a orange wall hammer, and five wild indo torches. Also decided I had to have a large sun coral colony. About two grand In wild indo coral is now in my tank. The paranoia is real. I now ask myself how long can I keep these frail corals who are not used to being in an artificial glass box with perimeters vastly different from what they call home? This is a picture of my tank that has corals that very well might not be here in a years time

6B6E30F0-2724-473E-9AF6-D9B0339AD8E6.jpeg 859A11FB-9C30-43B2-B4CD-22DDA1BD8A73.jpeg E3F3EB4A-A5F9-4A6C-AFD4-6E0A589E5536.jpeg 8A414DB6-5EF3-4469-AE94-19FFA4482BC7.jpeg B52355BC-E936-4896-A58B-6E63EBBEE8A8.jpeg 283CC61B-06FF-4556-8904-2329533565DA.jpeg D944F0D3-D0C2-47A5-BD87-6274581E3DBD.jpeg E1CCA0F2-0FB5-4BB5-8BF0-67007DD6D3FC.jpeg AA1897FC-7563-435A-8AFA-67CA2BD83A30.jpeg 80D2FDE9-8A7B-4313-B012-8F143CD0320A.jpeg 66D4358E-D330-4753-8742-B536874C945F.jpeg E7891208-5155-42B3-A6D6-CB5EAD69C206.jpeg 5B1431B9-A3C5-40A2-8C77-ED8E428D7501.jpeg
those look Really nice it looks like you have them dialed in health wise, I feel like torch's are just more sensitive than the hammers, frogs, octos, and the other hybrid looking varieties, only reason i have aquaculture pieces is due to people who managed to reproduce wild specimens, that green torch is really nice that looks like the same type i lost before the gold.
 
those look Really nice it looks like you have them dialed in health wise, I feel like torch's are just more sensitive than the hammers, frogs, octos, and the other hybrid looking varieties, only reason i have aquaculture pieces is due to people who managed to reproduce wild specimens, that green torch is really nice that looks like the same type i lost before the gold.
The green torch is by far one of my favorite pieces if not my most favorite piece. It is the brightest piece I own your eyes go directly to it. I have moved other corals and my wavemakers just to ensure it has the perfect pulsing flow. Hopefully it will stay happy for years to come
 
Last edited:
Yeah its ridiculous! LOL I just love torch corals so much I keep wasting my money on them with only heartbreak in the end.
Apparently the gold torch natural habitat is a thr mouth of rivers, therefore they actually live in a very cloudy, with lots of detritus coming from the rivers to the ocean. And the environment we create in an aquarium is quite the opposite, very clear and clean. That might be the reason why they might not do so well in aquarium but I agree they are so beatiful.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top