Proper UV set-up?

[HKfshkpr1]

Just got 2 UV's running in my 250 gal. total water system hoping to eliminate or reduce ich( none of the 15 existing fish shows any signs, yet the last 2 new fish I tried to add came down with ich). I have a 36W. in the sump with 200 gal/hr flow. And a 13W. in the show tank with 60 gal/hr flow.

My questions are: is there a certain ideal "depth" to pick up the "inlet water"? Better if close to the substrate/bottom? And about how long will it take to get the "maximum result"( assume no outbreaks)? I understand ich can remain in the system very long.

Thank you!

 

[Flippers4pups]

Ich can remain in a system indefinitely as long as there's a host.

UV may reduce their numbers, but won't eradicate them.

It's best to remove all fish and treat them accordingly in a qt.

 

[roberthu526]

Maintain proper flow is key. I’d do a test on flow rate then plumb the UVs accordingly. It doesn’t really matter a to where you draw water from.
I do think your UVs are under rated for your system.

 

[HKfshkpr1]

Ich can remain in a system indefinitely as long as there's a host.

UV may reduce their numbers, but won't eradicate them.

It's best to remove all fish and treat them accordingly in a qt.

How many QTs for 15 medium hard to catch fish? That's out of the question: "way too much" work and just the stress will make some otherwise totally healthy fish get sick( they "all" look healty for the last few months). If I decide to treat I much rather treat the whole system. I just want to give the new fish a better chance by reducing the number of "possible" ich parasite. Thanks!

 

[Ocelaris]

I agree those are probably undersized and quarantine is the only long term solution unfortunately. A 36 +13w isn't equal a 40w. But, if you want the flow rate on a 40w pentair, its between 150-250 gph. Also not all sterilizers are created equal. I wouldn't trust that this will fix your issue, but hope it works out. Here's the brs site with the specs.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/emperor-aquatics-smart-uv-40-watt.html

 

[HKfshkpr1]

I agree those are probably undersized and quarantine is the only long term solution unfortunately. A 36 +13w isn't equal a 40w. But, if you want the flow rate on a 40w pentair, its between 150-250 gph. Also not all sterilizers are created equal. I wouldn't trust that this will fix your issue, but hope it works out. Here's the brs site with the specs.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/emperor-aquatics-smart-uv-40-watt.html

OK this is a case of judgement call between the best and getting by with way less work. But to "re" qurantine( I quarantine all my fish) them does "not" guarantee they'll be ich free as I was told by other members that fish can be "immure" with no sign but still are "carriers"( my case?). TTM for 15 fish at the same time is out of the question and if I use copper why not treat the whole system and no QT?

I know my UVs are undersized but I was hoping 36w+13w(49w total) would at least equal to a 40w. Am I wrong?

 

[Ocelaris]

I would do copper at therapeutic levels. Ttm isn't feasible, you're right about that. UV just isn't a fix is what we're trying to say. It may help with the fish as it exists, but new fish coming in are at a huge risk. Basically long term, you'll need a better fix than uv for the fish.

UV is like black magic, and short of the best brands, I wouldn't recommend it for anything but a slight bump in water clarity. The smaller uv bulbs have little to no impact, so it's not simple addition. Light penetration and flow are the keys. I just cleaned my uv quartz sleeve and it had a 3mm thick calcium carbonate build up after 6 months, so cleaning it regularly is important. Realistically under the very best conditions it's very difficult to get the claims from the manufacturer, and our conditions are less so. It's a good stop gap, but probably not the long term solution you're looking for.

If you're putting time and energy into the tank, the money is better spent than uv, and you're probably doing as good of a job with them as you can. Slow flow and good feeding will help short term.

 

[HKfshkpr1]

I would do copper at therapeutic levels. Ttm isn't feasible, you're right about that. UV just isn't a fix is what we're trying to say. It may help with the fish as it exists, but new fish coming in are at a huge risk. Basically long term, you'll need a better fix than uv for the fish.

UV is like black magic, and short of the best brands, I wouldn't recommend it for anything but a slight bump in water clarity. The smaller uv bulbs have little to no impact, so it's not simple addition. Light penetration and flow are the keys. I just cleaned my uv quartz sleeve and it had a 3mm thick calcium carbonate build up after 6 months, so cleaning it regularly is important. Realistically under the very best conditions it's very difficult to get the claims from the manufacturer, and our conditions are less so. It's a good stop gap, but probably not the long term solution you're looking for.

If you're putting time and energy into the tank, the money is better spent than uv, and you're probably doing as good of a job with them as you can. Slow flow and good feeding will help short term.

Thank you so much for the detailed reply! I'll be dilligent maintaining the UV's. As I said "all" existing fish show no sign at all for months( including dwarf angels and a hippo tang), it's tough for me to make up my mind to run copper for a 250 gal. system.

The new powder blue tang has been ich free for a week after TTM. Still observing. Another sub-adult emperor angel is in the 3rd TT. My plan for now is to wait a week or so for the UV's to perform( hopefully). Then I'll start doing water changes with the "system water" instead of new water. If they get ich at least it won't affect other fish.

If they get passed that I'll put them in acclaimation boxes in the show tank and observe for a few days. I'll also "try" to catch and remove the tank boss( a yellow tang) temperarily. But it'll be very hard as I'm not good at catching especially in a large deep tank. Suggestions?

 

[Ocelaris]

This is the only fish trap I've ever had luck with. It sometimes takes a few days, but always works.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aqua-medic-fish-trap.html

 

[HKfshkpr1]

This is the only fish trap I've ever had luck with. It sometimes takes a few days, but always works.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aqua-medic-fish-trap.html

Good suggestion, will consider that thank you!

 

[roberthu526]

OK this is a case of judgement call between the best and getting by with way less work. But to "re" qurantine( I quarantine all my fish) them does "not" guarantee they'll be ich free as I was told by other members that fish can be "immure" with no sign but still are "carriers"( my case?). TTM for 15 fish at the same time is out of the question and if I use copper why not treat the whole system and no QT?

I know my UVs are undersized but I was hoping 36w+13w(49w total) would at least equal to a 40w. Am I wrong?

For a 250G system I think you need something around 80W . Generally speaking you want two to three times turnover through the UV. and still be able to kill parasite. 40W is not going to get it done I am afraid. I run a 36W on my 150G and a 120W on my 300G.
Hope it helps.

 

[HKfshkpr1]

For a 250G system I think you need something around 80W . Generally speaking you want two to three times turnover through the UV. and still be able to kill parasite. 40W is not going to get it done I am afraid. I run a 36W on my 150G and a 120W on my 300G.
Hope it helps.

OK thank you! You got me thinking of getting another 36W.....................

 

[HKfshkpr1]

Follow up after 40 days: the 36 W burnt out with some melting near the lamp base after 2 weeks, probably not enough water flow. I just took it out of service still waiting for a replacement bulb.
But I think I found something more import: my nitrate was too high. I concentrated on improving that by cleaning all my mechanical filters, added a protein skimmer, and performed 2 water changes( which also reduced ich?). "All" my fish became more lively and have a better appetite.
A week ago when my water was already OK I "successfully" added a Powder Blue Tang and an Emporor Angel. Both doing well as of today.