Protocol for using antibiotics to treat infected anemones

T
yes..from past memory I remember seeing mags were treated with doxy..Be careful with amoxicillin and BTAS they dont seem to like it...
Thanks for the warning i have to do something or im going to lose the lot.

Any suggestions what else i can use if i cant get doxy or cipro? I only have penicillin v on hand
 
T

Thanks for the warning i have to do something or im going to lose the lot.

Any suggestions what else i can use if i cant get doxy or cipro? I only have penicillin v on hand
 

Attachments

  • 20240207_104203.jpg
    20240207_104203.jpg
    211.6 KB · Views: 54
  • 20240207_104201.jpg
    20240207_104201.jpg
    246.7 KB · Views: 48
  • 20240207_104220.jpg
    20240207_104220.jpg
    192.6 KB · Views: 44
  • 20240207_104223.jpg
    20240207_104223.jpg
    212.4 KB · Views: 44
  • 20240207_104227.jpg
    20240207_104227.jpg
    140.9 KB · Views: 40
  • 20240207_104212.jpg
    20240207_104212.jpg
    256.3 KB · Views: 45
Anyone able to offer any advice on using doxycycline for treatment of a mag? Any dosage info? Is it the same as Cipro?
 
Last night I decided to do a peroxide dip and an iodine dip as a last ditch effort to stop the tissue loss. I did ~ 1 part peroxide to 5 parts tank water for 6 minutes. Then I did a few drops of Lugol's in a small dish of tank water also for 6 minutes. The nem looked awful afterwards but opened back up by the next morning. So far there has been no more tissue loss, but the nem still won't attach it's foot to anything... I think now I'll just leave it be and hope it pulls through
How did it go? I have same issue now.
 
I'm considering purchasing a heteractis crispa. Does anyone know if these anemones have low survival from shipping and require treatment?
 
I'm considering purchasing a heteractis crispa. Does anyone know if these anemones have low survival from shipping and require treatment?


Yea they come in ruff allot but it is not from bacterial infection. They come in bleached most of the time and sometimes severely and same with H. malu.

Also I think the foot is damaged a lot to because when I see them some can not attach. This usually means their demise so if their not attaching run.

Bleaching I have had them recover from but I have not seen them with the bacteria infections. Seems mainly to be H. magnificas some times gigs but that does not mean they cant.
 
Last edited:
Crispa and Malu are hardier and sometime require treatment, but not all the time. PEA has some very nice Mag and Crispa for sale right now.
 
Yeah that’s the crispa I’m planning on getting but wanted to hear some opinions before I pulled the trigger on it. I’m hoping it doesn’t get bleached or hurt during shipping.

I was reading if my perculas would host it since it might not be its natural host. At least that’s what I been reading from doing research on them.

The only reason I would be getting a Crispa vs a Mag is that I’ve read it’s a little bit easier to keep alive compared to a Mag.
 
So did end up purchasing the Heteractis Crispa from PEA. Hopefully it doesn't bleach or something during shipping.

After researching this type of anemone, does it look more like a Malu or really a Heteractis Crispa?

Screen Shot 2024-06-13 at 12.15.32 PM.png
 
It looks like a Malu to me. Malu are smaller and won't get too big (max about 8 inches). They are very similar to small Crispa. Hard to tell small Crispa from Malu but Crispa stays on the rock rather than go to ground, and of course it will get larger with more and longer tentacles. Sometime, some of the tentacles of Malu have rings on them. Rings on some tentacles confirm that it is a Malu, but lack of ring does not mean that it is not a Malu.
 
thanks for the information @OrionN ! When I get it, do you recommend me putting it on the rock first and let go where it wants? I didn't get this so my clownfish can host it but do you know if my perculas would even go near it?
 
When you are ready to put it into your tank, I would get it to attach to a small piece of rock/oyster shell. Put the rock with the anemone on it on the sand. If it goes to the sand, then leave it alone (anemone cannot dig into the sand easy unless it attaches to something on the surface). If it does not, then you can put it against the rock. Rock anemone then will climb the rock as it should.
 
I agree Malu and a nice looking one. I agree with Orion and not much too offer additional.
 
I got my crispa from PEA recently and I think you guys are right its probably a Malu. I placed on top of my rock and overnight it went to the side bottom of the rock by the sand.

I'm not in expert, but can you guys confirm it looks healthy? It wasn't bleached or pale with I got it. It looked purple\pink like it was listed. Is it safe to move it and relocate it toward the front of the tank so it can be visible? currently its just on the back side of the bottom rock touching the sand where no one can see it.

I understand it can move where ever it wants but wanted to know if I can move it (just so it visible) or if that would cause it more stress. Its been in my tank since Wednesday. Now all I need is a nice WC perculas to complete the tank.
 

Attachments

  • HMane1.jpg
    HMane1.jpg
    208.7 KB · Views: 29
  • HMAne2.jpg
    HMAne2.jpg
    163.5 KB · Views: 32
  • HMAne3.jpg
    HMAne3.jpg
    200.6 KB · Views: 28
Hi everyone, if someone could give me his thoughts on my situation I would really appreciate.

I just got a new magnifica anemone (the last one I had for 2 1/2 years sadly visited a pump…. The only one without a safety guard (now it has one)) I know it’s still a bit bleached, foot is bright purple and tip are starting to show some yellow. The thing that got me worried a bit, it deflates fully daily (my other one did it every few days) could it be normal since it’s been in the tank for less than a week? Still adapting to lighting, flow, stress? Otherwise it is fully inflated all day, it just deflate almost same time every evening. It’s approximately 10 inch when fully open up

It deflates for an hour, an hour and a half.

It’s under a Kessil 360we, same spot that my last one was.

I leaning toward normal reaction as it is adapting and trying to color back up but I would love your input on this!

I’m in Canada so treatment is really difficult to do since Cipro and other antibiotics requires a prescription.

Tank parameters:

Salinity : 1.026
PH : 8.0
Alk : 8.2
Cal : 410
Nitrates : 5.3
Phosphate: 0.03
Mag : 1360

Tank : 50 gal with 15 gal sump, 3+ years old
IMG_2633.jpeg
IMG_2634.jpeg
IMG_2632.jpeg
IMG_2631.jpeg
 
Last edited:
are daily water changes necessary in a cycled tank? I assume the antibiotics will affect the cycle somewhat, but enough to warrant 100% daily water changes?
 
I was wondering the same thing. I have 10 hospital tank setup for when I'm ready to buy a ritteri anemone I like. I know the protocol calls for a daily water, but can I possibly get away with just a 50% water change (5gallons out of the 10g qt tank). If not I could just stick to the 100% water changes but if figured I ask.
 
I was wondering the same thing. I have 10 hospital tank setup for when I'm ready to buy a ritteri anemone I like. I know the protocol calls for a daily water, but can I possibly get away with just a 50% water change (5gallons out of the 10g qt tank). If not I could just stick to the 100% water changes but if figured I ask.
I use a 20 gal ...and only change 10/day ..heavy aeration ,abx strip O2 from the water ..
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top