Puffer with BAD ich at LFS

[Eagle_Steve]

I noticed there was a live freshwater ghost shrimp and some empty shells in the mini tank w him. I don’t think I could do sacrificial hermits or snails. For some reason, I can feed em piles of live baby brine shrimp but not snails or hermit crabs. I get really attached to those. Is there any way around this?!? I can’t rescue him only to provide him inadequate care

A little trick is to place a piece of shrimp in a hole in a rock to where it could just barely get at it. It will scrape its teeth while trying to dig the piece out. Not a guarantee it will work, but has on some in the past. Also you can put shrimp in empty hermit shells. That works most of the time. Puffer will chew and crack shell to get shrimp. And then there is always just trimming their teeth. It’s very simple and involves some tea tree oil (tiny amount) and trimmers. The tea tree oil is like a ruffi and puts them in a daze for a bit. There are tons of videos showing how to do it. For the amount of oil per gallon, I would have to go dig my notebook out. Haven’t had to trim any teeth in a few years lol. Snails breed like mad in my other tanks, so they either starve or become puffer food.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

A little trick is to place a piece of shrimp in a hole in a rock to where it could just barely get at it. It will scrape its teeth while trying to dig the piece out. Not a guarantee it will work, but has on some in the past. Also you can put shrimp in empty hermit shells. That works most of the time. Puffer will chew and crack shell to get shrimp. And then there is always just trimming their teeth. It’s very simple and involves some tea tree oil (tiny amount) and trimmers. The tea tree oil is like a ruffi and puts them in a daze for a bit. There are tons of videos showing how to do it. For the amount of oil per gallon, I would have to go dig my notebook out. Haven’t had to trim any teeth in a few years lol. Snails breed like mad in my other tanks, so they either starve or become puffer food.

Man I am tired lol. Clove oil NOT tea tree oil. Why I had tea tree oil in my head I don’t know. My wife just reached over and smacked me after I read her my post.

 

[Mariette]

Man I am tired lol. Clove oil NOT tea tree oil. Why I had tea tree oil in my head I don’t know. My wife just reached over and smacked me after I read her my post.

Holy cow I think I love your wife hahaha

 

[Mariette]

A little trick is to place a piece of shrimp in a hole in a rock to where it could just barely get at it. It will scrape its teeth while trying to dig the piece out. Not a guarantee it will work, but has on some in the past. Also you can put shrimp in empty hermit shells. That works most of the time. Puffer will chew and crack shell to get shrimp. And then there is always just trimming their teeth. It’s very simple and involves some tea tree oil (tiny amount) and trimmers. The tea tree oil is like a ruffi and puts them in a daze for a bit. There are tons of videos showing how to do it. For the amount of oil per gallon, I would have to go dig my notebook out. Haven’t had to trim any teeth in a few years lol. Snails breed like mad in my other tanks, so they either starve or become puffer food.

I’m familiar w the process. Had to OD it once to put a fish down. Have lots of clove oil leftover from my hippy phase lol

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Man I am tired lol. Clove oil NOT tea tree oil. Why I had tea tree oil in my head I don’t know. My wife just reached over and smacked me after I read her my post.

She made me go get the notebook so you had all the info lol.

Clove oil in a glass bottle with a dropper is 15 drops per gallon of water.

Takes about 30 seconds for the fish to calm down.

Trim teeth fast, place in net and then set back in tank while still in the net so it can come to. Once puffer is back to normal, release into tank.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Holy cow I think I love your wife hahaha

Puffers are actually “Her Fish”.

 

[Mariette]

Puffers are actually “Her Fish”.

Does she want to drive to Canada to pick one up?

 

[Mariette]

She made me go get the notebook so you had all the info lol.

Clove oil in a glass bottle with a dropper is 15 drops per gallon of water.

Takes about 30 seconds for the fish to calm down.

Trim teeth fast, place in net and then set back in tank while still in the net so it can come to. Once puffer is back to normal, release into tank.

Okay thx. I’ll screenshot this for future reference. Don’t think it’s an issue yet cuz I think that’s guy hasn’t been there long. We’ll see

 

[Eagle_Steve]

That is a long drive from Tennessee lol. She probably would though if we had room for more lol. Problem is, she might stop at all of the LFSs on the way there and need a we would be broke lol.

 

[Mariette]

That is a long drive from Tennessee lol. She probably would though if we had room for more lol. Problem is, she might stop at all of the LFSs on the way there and need a we would be broke lol.

Did I mention he comes w a 55g bowfront, stand, and canister filter? Hmmm? Hmmmmmmmmmmm?!??

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Did I mention he comes w a 55g bowfront, stand, and canister filter? Hmmm? Hmmmmmmmmmmm?!??

Lol.

 

[ngoodermuth]

CP is the best option for puffers, and also works best in a NON-CYCLED QT, as it can be degraded by a working bio-filter. Prime can be used in conjunction with water changes to manage ammonia. Just remember to re-dose the water in the bucket accordingly with CP before it hits the tank.

If you get the 110g up and running in the next 14 days, you can move your velvet survivors over and transfer the puffer out of the first tank and into the other QT with working bio-filter. That would be the best plan, since CP can be an appetite suppressant and it will be more difficult to keep it at the appropriate level as the bio-film begins to form.

After 2-3 weeks of observation he can join the others in the 110 if that is the long-term plan, or you can break down and sterilize the 55 for him... set it back up with live rock, etc and let it cycle for him.

 

[Mariette]

CP is the best option for puffers, and also works best in a NON-CYCLED QT, as it can be degraded by a working bio-filter. Prime can be used in conjunction with water changes to manage ammonia. Just remember to re-dose the water in the bucket accordingly with CP before it hits the tank.

If you get the 110g up and running in the next 14 days, you can move your velvet survivors over and transfer the puffer out of the first tank and into the other QT with working bio-filter. That would be the best plan, since CP can be an appetite suppressant and it will be more difficult to keep it at the appropriate level as the bio-film begins to form.

After 2-3 weeks of observation he can join the others in the 110 if that is the long-term plan, or you can break down and sterilize the 55 for him... set it back up with live rock, etc and let it cycle for him.

I have prime too.
Velvet survivors are ready to go into new tank now. Just waiting for it to be ready. It was delivered over a mth late.
So I can dump the contents of qt and restart so it’s NOT cycled. Add puffer. Treat w cp. use prime. He’ll have to stay in 20g for 6 weeks. I’ve got a strict 1 mth observation policy after infection. He’s pretty small. Would he be ok in 20g for that long?

 

[ngoodermuth]

I have prime too.
Velvet survivors are ready to go into new tank now. Just waiting for it to be ready. It was delivered over a mth late.
So I can dump the contents of qt and restart so it’s NOT cycled. Add puffer. Treat w cp. use prime. He’ll have to stay in 20g for 6 weeks. I’ve got a strict 1 mth observation policy after infection. He’s pretty small. Would he be ok in 20g for that long?

You can just treat him for 14 days in the 20g then transfer to the 55g as an observation tank.

 

[Mariette]

You can just treat him for 14 days in the 20g then transfer to the 55g as an observation tank.

Can’t. 55g is going fallow. He can’t go in there till mid July. Maybe better off in the 110g but it’s not cycled yet. How quick can I cycle w live bacteria and established live rock?

 

[Mariette]

Also, can co be used w live rock and sand? I can pull that stuff out and give him an artificial cave to hide in if it’s gonna be an issue.

 

[puffy127]

IMHO, one should not attempt fish rescues unless they are experienced in quarantining fish, have the appropriate knowledge, medications, and equipment, and have an appropriate sized tank for it to live in after QT.

 

[Mariette]

IMHO, one should not attempt fish rescues unless they are experienced in quarantining fish, have the appropriate knowledge, medications, and equipment, and have an appropriate sized tank for it to live in after QT.

That’s a respectable opinion. My logic is as follows: I do nothing: fish dies for sure. I do something: fish might die anyway. I like it’s odds better w me. I’m no expert but I have gotten my fish through a bout of both ich and Velvet. I’ve also lost fish in the process. And lost 3 in qt together to Flukes. So I’ve got some experience. No expert by any means but I’ve got the necessary medications available, time, and access to R2R. I just have to give him up when he outgrows the 110g. It’s just a matter or figuring out if I have the proper qt for him now

 

[BestMomEver]

@Mjrenz is your go-to on this one. What you’re facing is a long, expensive, time consuming, and potentially heart breaking road. If you want to do it, expect the worst. You have a good heart but keep in mind, you can’t save them all.

 

[ngoodermuth]

Can’t. 55g is going fallow. He can’t go in there till mid July. Maybe better off in the 110g but it’s not cycled yet. How quick can I cycle w live bacteria and established live rock?

I think if he is small should be ok in the 20g QT... but what about the fish that are there now? Where were you planning to go with them if you brought him home? I was under the impression the 55g contents would be moved to the 110 and the 55g would be used as an extra QT.

If the fish and the live rock can’t be combined any time soon, you might need another 20g QT...