Pump for DI Water

[Adamantium]

Does anyone have suggestions for something I can use to pump my RO water through my DI resin? I’m on a well, so I have to pump RO into a brute to off gas the CO2. I then pump it through my DI.

I was using an aqua lifter, but I just upgraded to a dual stage DI, and now it literally trickles out. It takes like 9 hours to fill a 10 gallon brute.

Would a booster pump be too much? Would that even work? Thanks

 

[DC Reefer]

Does anyone have suggestions for something I can use to pump my RO water through my DI resin? I’m on a well, so I have to pump RO into a brute to off gas the CO2. I then pump it through my DI.

I was using an aqua lifter, but I just upgraded to a dual stage DI, and now it literally trickles out. It takes like 9 hours to fill a 10 gallon brute.

Would a booster pump be too much? Would that even work? Thanks

Can you run it through the whole system including DI and then into the brute to air out? If not I would think the booster would work. It might need a pump to force the booster but I don’t know.

 

[redfishbluefish]

No booster pump! The easiest and cheapest way is to gravity feed the water through DI. Yes, it's going to be slow. Stick with the Aqualifter.

 

[Jeffcb]

I have 1 of these. Makes water faster.

1/4" 8800 Booster Pump Kit

Boost Your RO/DI System's Performance Solves Low Pressure Problems: Ideal for RO/DI systems needing a pressure increase. Complete Solution: Includes all necessary components for a quick setup. Enhanced Efficiency: Improves waste water ratio and membrane performance. Noise-Reducing Design...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[Adamantium]

Can you run it through the whole system including DI and then into the brute to air out? If not I would think the booster would work. It might need a pump to force the booster but I don’t know.

Nope, because the issue is that the CO2 rips through DI resin. That’s why I have to off gas it.

I’m not sure if a booster pump does need to have water pumped into it for it to work. That’s a good question.

 

[Adamantium]

No booster pump! The easiest and cheapest way is to gravity feed the water through DI. Yes, it's going to be slow. Stick with the Aqualifter.

Dang.... It’s so absurdly slow. It seems even slower today. I ran it for 3 hours and got maybe a gallon.

There’s no other options to pump it through more quickly? A booster pump isn’t going to work?

 

[Adamantium]

I have 1 of these. Makes water faster.

1/4" 8800 Booster Pump Kit

Boost Your RO/DI System's Performance Solves Low Pressure Problems: Ideal for RO/DI systems needing a pressure increase. Complete Solution: Includes all necessary components for a quick setup. Enhanced Efficiency: Improves waste water ratio and membrane performance. Noise-Reducing Design...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

I wonder if that would work for my situation, though. Do booster pumps need to have water pushed into them, or do they pull water?

 

[zalick]

Can you setup the brute for off-gassing to be elevated and then have the RO unit lower? If so, the aquatec booster would be great. I have the same unit and keep it set at 80psi.

 

[redfishbluefish]

You don't want to high pressure feed water through DI. A slow feed pump is what you need similar to a Tom's Aqualifter.

 

[DC Reefer]

What if you collected the water and let it air out prior to any filtration and then gravity fed to a. Poster pump to push through the whole RODI system?

 

[Adamantium]

I might’ve found the perfect solution. The Avast Marine Diaphragm Pump. It seems perfect.

The only thing I don’t know is how it would work if I put a float valve on the output. Does anyone know? I see people use it mostly for ATO, but I don’t understand how they shut it off.

 

[Mike konesky]

i have the same issue with well water, but with high levels of silicate. i run RO first into a brute, bypassing the resins, then use a mag 9 to run the water again through the system and the DI stages. i used to grab water from the lfs then run it through a 1 mic sediment, then through a mixed bed with only the mag 9, no booster. the booster pump has no problem running with 0psi. id suggest finding a pump with a venturi to speed the degassing process.

 

[Adamantium]

i have the same issue with well water, but with high levels of silicate. i run RO first into a brute, bypassing the resins, then use a mag 9 to run the water again through the system and the DI stages. i used to grab water from the lfs then run it through a 1 mic sediment, then through a mixed bed with only the mag 9, no booster. the booster pump has no problem running with 0psi. id suggest finding a pump with a venturi to speed the degassing process.

So, how do you have the pump hooked up to your DI resin? That’s what I’m struggling with the most.

 

[Mike konesky]

I have the same issue. I make RO first, then use a mag 9 to feed booster to run through DI. Works perfect. Aquatec will confirm that their pumps will do just fine running at 0psi input.

 

[Adamantium]

I have the same issue. I make RO first, then use a mag 9 to feed booster to run through DI. Works perfect. Aquatec will confirm that their pumps will do just fine running at 0psi input.

So how do you connect the mag 9 to the booster pump?

And the booster pump going straight into the DI resin isn’t too much psi?

 

[Mike konesky]

for just processing through resin i start with 1/2" thread on the pump and go down to 3/8" tubing. 3/8" tubing to canister with sediment. sediment to DI canisters. no booster needed if you do it this way. i quit doing that and just run the RO water again through the entire system now to get rid of even more silicate to save my resins. i use the mag 9 to feed the booster. Thought I had crazy high co2 as well but an ICP test said it was just lots of silicate

 

[Adamantium]

So, I’m debating just sticking with the aqualifter and waiting like 3 days for it to fill haha

But now I have two concerns:

After filling, the lifter will suck in air. Will that damage the resin?

Also, is it an issue to have the water move so slowly through the resin? A BRS rep said it could reduce the resin’s lifespan, but that seems odd to me.

 

[Adamantium]

So, I’m debating just sticking with the aqualifter and waiting like 3 days for it to fill haha

But now I have two concerns:

After filling, the lifter will suck in air. Will that damage the resin?

Also, is it an issue to have the water move so slowly through the resin? A BRS rep said it could reduce the resin’s lifespan, but that seems odd to me.

Can anybody speak to this?

 

[howaboutme]

I might’ve found the perfect solution. The Avast Marine Diaphragm Pump. It seems perfect.

The only thing I don’t know is how it would work if I put a float valve on the output. Does anyone know? I see people use it mostly for ATO, but I don’t understand how they shut it off.

I have the Avast diaphragm pump. It can go dry (but I wouldn't do it too often). I use it for my ATO.

For this purpose you would have to plug that pump into a separate device that is tied to the float valve. Avast has this:

Auto Top Off

Finally, a top-off control sensor that is mounted to your sump with a magnet rather than a clunky bracket! Driven by a pressure-sensitive switch located in the relay box, a strong magnetic field won't affect its operation. The sensor tube can't get clogged with calcium deposits or activated by...

www.avastmarine.com

It uses pressure switch (w/ float as back up as pressure switch is more reliable). You'll need to plug pump into the "standard outlet" otherwise into a separate controller. It's a nice pump and much better than an aqualifter.

 

[Adamantium]

I have the Avast diaphragm pump. It can go dry (but I wouldn't do it too often). I use it for my ATO.

For this purpose you would have to plug that pump into a separate device that is tied to the float valve. Avast has this:

Auto Top Off

Finally, a top-off control sensor that is mounted to your sump with a magnet rather than a clunky bracket! Driven by a pressure-sensitive switch located in the relay box, a strong magnetic field won't affect its operation. The sensor tube can't get clogged with calcium deposits or activated by...

www.avastmarine.com

It uses pressure switch (w/ float as back up as pressure switch is more reliable). You'll need to plug pump into the "standard outlet" otherwise into a separate controller. It's a nice pump and much better than an aqualifter.

Good to hear you like it. I’d hate to spend so much on such a simple thing, but it’s definitely an option.

I’m debating using an AutoAqua Smart Level Security to shut it off, but it’s annoying that it beeps, and costs so much.