Purchasing Once-Dry Rock That is Cured and Cycled

[Sm51498]

People worry way too much about pests. So this could be good. To me, the beneficial organisms in good live rock far outweigh the pests. I place a premium on biodiversity as I find it makes a more stabe, durable system.

 

[Sir Chris]

I'm glad I found this. So I'm currently moving 2 a 75g and have 4/5 of my rock dry and been cycling for a month now but my current HOB 30g I need 2 put the rock in the 75g but don't want bristles and I've heard RO soak it or lower sal soak but did it 2 a smaller rock that had 2 FAT bristles in it for a night and then blew it out with my compressor but nothing bristley came out so I put it in corner of tank and watched it. Then 10 mins later 2 come out and kinda hung there so sucked 1 up with turkey baster and got him but he acted drunk and the other was not and went back in. So how can I move it without losing all my coroline and bacteria. I'm about 2 just bake it and scrape all the coroline of em and use that 2 seed the tank unless there's a way 2 get them ALL out eggs and all. I don't want 1 rock 2 ruin all my prevention work

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

Bristle worms are good. but......

http://reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-clean-old-rock-before-put-in-the-tank.209008/#post-2392229

 

[Brew12]

I don't know if that made sense. I've had a couple....lol.

It did... and it didn't but it's not because what you said wasn't well explained or that it was wrong. Only that we are trying to talk about what is a way very complex balance between water volume, live rock, ammonia producers (bioload and food), and bacteria. In a perfect world a 100 gallon tank with 2 clowns in it, fed exactly the same as a 10 gallon tank with 2 clowns, would have the exact same number of bacteria. However, because of the bigger tank size, you need to feed them more because it will be more scattered. You will have more places for waste to build up in the larger tank.

Why isn't anything simple in this hobby?

Sorry to hijack the thread! I need to get better about that....

 

[brandon429]

Key takeaways:
Skip cycling has a place in reefing, I've only skipped cycles and never cycled a tank due to using using live rock. Even bio spira has a ramp up time, but skip cycling is instant

I bring home live rock and sps day one from pet store in 2006, make update vids decade later showing the fragging. My reef was as matured and stable within one hour of setup as it is now in 2016, heart of the skip cycle.


It brought hitchhikers... so good curing to remove them would be nice. I'd want you to sell me purple coralline rock though vs white but still cycled

http://reef2reef.com/threads/live-rock-and-sand-will-it-cycle.265001/

The thread shows that many don't know you can skip cycle, and it's not breaking rules if you follow repeatable biological tenets


Everyone who sets up twenty thousand dollar display tanks at marine shows are skip cyclers, they transport ready material and bacteria do not ever die from that, in fact filtration bacteria increase in numbers, not decrease when you move then tank to tank... anybody have a guess why? (Where res publica thinks it kills them, a paradox, why would they boost?)

 

[Bob Escher]

So we call biopiracy and other things like it snake oil? Why

 

[Roboson]

It could be a viable option for many people, but it mostly depends on price. How much would you charge per pound?

 

[Nick Kohrn]

It could be a viable option for many people, but it mostly depends on price. How much would you charge per pound?

I haven't looked at pricing yet. I would love for it to be lower than the current prices for typical live rock, but I would need to have A LOT of rock cycling on hand every day to make sure I could meet whatever demand there would be. I'm not trying to become rich. I just want to try to have something that is reasonably priced in this over-priced hobby. I want to make it easier for new hobbyists to get started. I assume the expensive part would be shipping. If I could get away with charging $5/lb for cured & cycled dry rock, then I don't think that would be unreasonable.

 

[Sir Chris]

Bristle worms are good. but......

http://reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-clean-old-rock-before-put-in-the-tank.209008/#post-2392229

I have a pool so I have muratic acid and don't wanna go this route as it takes calcium of the Rock and wanna keep the bacteria. Just rid the bristles. They bug me no pun intended.

 

[Sir Chris]

And also. Does coroline cause GSP or any encruster a 2 not overtake it. As the gone around it or ceased 2 colonize over it. So I scraped some off my zoa drag them new polyps showed up there. So I think it causes problems as well as is what's a health tank has. Like a double edged sword. Any input appreciated. Thx

 

[Sir Chris]

People worry way too much about pests. So this could be good. To me, the beneficial organisms in good live rock far outweigh the pests. I place a premium on biodiversity as I find it makes a more stabe, durable system.

Yes but on the flip side. I have these worms that have green strings that suck the life out of anything that's not heathy like it for into a battle. I lose my favorite Zoas 2 then so sucked 1 out sand and there's some in rocks and was a worm with this weird body and a nasty stringy mouth area.

 

[Sir Chris]

So all I have 2 add is b careful where u buy ur LR at. I did all LR in 30g and now I'm all dry and cycled rock and if I want a bristle worm in there and he'll multiply on his own then ok but not those things. They've killed a few things and idk what rock the started from. Also I got an invasive sponge from 1 and it was a weird stringy along white. And had 2 pull the rock and dry it and was a base rock with a eagle eye zoa colony on it so I'm all dry rock now