Purple SPS not so purple?

Lol. Dana targeted one in the kessils , but in my observations I haven't see any adverse effects generally. In my Ai Sols it also has high level of the same plus a few high peaks I'm conerned with. The spectral curves on both lamps are not as even as most would prefer like a radium. There's a couple high peaks that I see with my $.32 spectrometer not not typical to most t5 mh and other curves.

I.e. 300 par overall and 100 is all the bad spectrum.
Because the spectral range of the emitter is what has it , you can't balance it out. Or at least I couldn't.

Oddly , while I greened several other corals (couple acros shroom and POed my frogspawn) I also made my tri color a tri color.
 
In some corals it's not overall intensity but a specific Nm overdose that doesn't exist on the reef. Some lights have too much of this NM. I know of two that do.

Kessil and Radions?

I believe Maxspect R420R may have a bit too much also. My Tri Color and Cali Tort seem to have a bit too much green in them. But my Purple Stylophora is a nice shade of purple and it's closer to the lights.
 
Just made this comparison. Today on the left, July 12th on the right. Went fully green between then. Looks like it hasn't really grown up, but it's put 1/4" of base out and the stick itself looks thicker.
IMG_20171029_203846.jpg
 
Kessil and Radions?

I believe Maxspect R420R may have a bit too much also. My Tri Color and Cali Tort seem to have a bit too much green in them. But my Purple Stylophora is a nice shade of purple and it's closer to the lights.
The Sols
 
For purples and blues to really pop on their own, you need lots of spectrum from 35o to about 450 - this gets used as energy and spit back out in the lower part of the visible spectrum. Actinic T5 and MH have these in spades - some LEDs have true UV, but not many and not down to 350. Then, you need bulbs to show them off - T5 and MH are good here, but so are most LEDs with blue and purple diodes.

Anybody who used the UVL Super Actinic remembers how well that baby makes purples and blues really glow once the pigments get going again.
 
Set it and forget it ;)
+1, find a sweet spot and leave it alone. They'll acclimate better with stability. I also add K to my tank and it is remarkable for me. My Jedi's have deep purple's in the rims.:)
 
Just made this comparison. Today on the left, July 12th on the right. Went fully green between then. Looks like it hasn't really grown up, but it's put 1/4" of base out and the stick itself looks thicker.
IMG_20171029_203846.jpg
That's my bday hehe, My acros are coloring up slowly so I'm trying to to touch.
 
+1, find a sweet spot and leave it alone. They'll acclimate better with stability. I also add K to my tank and it is remarkable for me. My Jedi's have deep purple's in the rims.:)
My jedi is the only true purple coral in my tank right now, must love its spot.
 
+1, find a sweet spot and leave it alone. They'll acclimate better with stability. I also add K to my tank and it is remarkable for me. My Jedi's have deep purple's in the rims.:)
That is what I am trying to learn here.
If any particular light is missing a certain spectrum element, can we manipulate the color with water chemistry?
 
That is what I am trying to learn here.
If any particular light is missing a certain spectrum element, can we manipulate the color with water chemistry?
Only thing I know of is to use carbon to keep your tank water clean and more light gets to your corals. Just be careful not to burn them;)
 
Does anyone know what color spectrum "purple-r" corals like? My jedi mindtrick and ORA strawberry shortcake seems to be losing a bit of their purple.
My Jedi mind trick is green with bluish purple rim but mainly blue.

I've never seen a purple strawberry shortcake, I wouldn't sweat it. If they look healthy and have good coloration (even if not purple) just let em be. Also on the acro front it could take months or longer to develop full coloration. Some new corals hold colors for a bit then fade then come back. In my opinion the best thing you can do for a coral is leave it where it is. They will adapt to most situations and color up better. My guess is that these are relatively new frags?

I have a bc secale acro that has super bright purple coloration, and a wwc yellow tips that does as well, but then I have another wwc yellow tip that is newer and doesn't yet.

If you had like 5 acros that were supposed to be purple and weren't after several months, than we might have a different discussion.

If you want to do something cuz your bored/anxious you could test potassium levels (I use salifert). IME coloration suffers with low potassium, especially on acropora. But again, doubt that's the issue here. Never hurts to turn up your flow as well ; )
 
My Jedi mind trick is green with bluish purple rim but mainly blue.

I've never seen a purple strawberry shortcake, I wouldn't sweat it. If they look healthy and have good coloration (even if not purple) just let em be. Also on the acro front it could take months or longer to develop full coloration. Some new corals hold colors for a bit then fade then come back. In my opinion the best thing you can do for a coral is leave it where it is. They will adapt to most situations and color up better. My guess is that these are relatively new frags?

I have a bc secale acro that has super bright purple coloration, and a wwc yellow tips that does as well, but then I have another wwc yellow tip that is newer and doesn't yet.

If you had like 5 acros that were supposed to be purple and weren't after several months, than we might have a different discussion.

If you want to do something cuz your bored/anxious you could test potassium levels (I use salifert). IME coloration suffers with low potassium, especially on acropora. But again, doubt that's the issue here. Never hurts to turn up your flow as well ; )
I use salifert too, they are only 2 months old.
 
That is what I am trying to learn here.
If any particular light is missing a certain spectrum element, can we manipulate the color with water chemistry?
I don't belive so. Some of the minerals do change the colors but.....
 
You can mess up color with bad water chemistry, but good water chemistry just sets the stage. The spectrum is still super important.
 
Like others have said, a lot of it boils down to the coral and its preferences for flow, light, nutrients, etc. Personally I find my acros to be a darker purple in mid light and a lighter purple in high light. When it comes to montiporas, purples tend to become brighter in higher light. I have an efflo frag that I've had for a couple years. It has been moved, survived some tank troubles, been shaded out, and has always been beige with green tips. Now all of a sudden purple is starting to appear on it. All I can say is I have trimmed back corals around it and my tank has been stable for a while now. The stability and increased flow and light is the probably cause of the purple returning to the coral after years of absence.
 

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