Purple Tang and Ich

corey.nolta

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So the only lfs in my area is Petco, unfortunately. I do not but any livestock from them as the store is absolutely horrible when it comes to their tanks. Always dirty, infested with one thing or another, or dead fish just left in the tanks. Well I went in today to pick up some salt and noticed they had THREE purple tangs. One was dead, and the other two had obvious ich. My question is this, is it worth setting up my QT tank and seeing if they will sell at a discounted price and try to nurse them back to health? I have never had to deal with ich (knock on wood!). What is the success rate? How easy is it to treat? I know it's pretty time consuming.
Or is it not worth it?
Thanks!
 
It would totally be worth it! the problem here though is weather it's actually ich and not velvet they have. Either way you can take them home and treat with copper which covers both diseases. Though if they are really sick then humble's sick fish protocol would be useful. I'll get the links to all three for you.
 
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/alprazos-salvage-protocol.213599/

Copper: Treats Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly Uronema marinum

How To Treat - First, it is important to know what kind of copper you are using. Cupramine is fully charged (ionic) copper, and has a therapeutic range of 0.35-0.5 mg/L or ppm. You would use a Seachem or Salifert copper test kit for Cupramine, as those are capable of reading copper in the low range. Coppersafe, on the other hand, is chelated copper. It has a much higher therapeutic range of 1.5-2.0 mg/L or ppm. As such, you need a “total copper test kit” such as API’s to measure Coppersafe.

Standard copper treatment lasts 30 consecutive days. The reason it takes so long is copper only targets the “free swimming stage” (the same holds true for all chemical treatments & hypo). While 7-14 days is the “norm” to reach this stage, certain strains of ich have prolonged life cycles. Indeed, even 30 days may not be long enough in some rare cases. This is why it is so important to observe after treatment ends, to ensure symptoms do not return.

Therapeutic copper levels must be maintained at all times during the 30 days, so testing often is important. If the level drops even slightly out of range, then the 30 day clock starts all over again. One reason your copper level may drop unexpectedly is if you are treating in a tank with rock and substrate; those should not be used in the presence of copper due to absorption. Conversely, if you exceed the therapeutic range you risk killing the fish.

Copper is a poison, pure and simple. It only works because most fish are able to withstand being in it longer than the parasites. Knowing this, it is wise to raise your copper level very slowly (over 3-5 days) instead of the usual 24-48 hours recommended on the labels. Doing so increases your odds of successfully treating a “copper sensitive” fish. Remove copper after 30 days by running activated carbon.

Pros - Readily available

Cons/Side Effects - Appetite suppression is a common side effect. If a fish stops eating, don’t add more copper until he resumes. If the fish is still not eating after 2-3 days, start doing water changes (lowering the copper concentration) until he eats. If this happens a second time after you resume raising the copper, you’ll know you’ve encountered a “copper sensitive” fish and an alternative treatment should be used instead. Some species of fish, such as angels, puffers, lions and mandarins are notoriously difficult to treat with copper.

  • Most people have difficulty treating with copper because they raise the level too quickly. Knowing this, it is wise to raise your copper level very slowly (over 3-5 days) instead of the usual 24-48 hours recommended on the labels. Some people take up to a week to reach therapeutic levels and that is certainly a wise course of action (unless dealing with a fast killer such as marine velvet disease.)
  • Almost all fish will show signs of appetite suppression while treating with copper. But so long as the fish is still eating - even just a little - it will be OK for the 30 day treatment period. Now, if a fish stops eating altogether that's a problem. If this continues for 3 consecutive days, start doing water changes (lowering the copper concentration) until the fish resumes eating. If this happens a second time after you resume raising the copper, you'll know you've encountered a "copper sensitive" fish and an alternative treatment should be used instead.
  • Alternative treatments for ich include: Chloroquine phosphate, tank transfer method, or hyposalinity. More detailed info on these treatments can be found here: https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/fis...is/189658-treatment-options-my-two-cents.html
FYI article: How copper works, and why it sometimes doesn't
 
If a sick fish comes from Petco, there's a good chance it has velvet. Especially since velvet is apparently running rampant right now. I've saved many Petco fish w/velvet by employing this protocol: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/velvet-amyloodinium-ocellatum.217570/#post-2499437

That protocol would be overkill for treating ich, but it would still work on that disease as well. So either way, you would be covered.
 
Good luck they'll probably tell you it's perfectly normal. I hope I'm wrong and you can save em!

Zebrasoma are typically pretty resistant to ich so I would definitely lean toward velvet being the culprit
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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